Set behind Talésai, a long-running Thai joint, this related kitchen pumps out outstanding Thai street food and Thai-inspired hybrids such as catfish tamales. Pique the appetite with larb lanna (chopped pork salad), push the envelope with rich pork toro (grilled pork collar) then move onto winners like chiengrei herb sausage and a pad Thai that makes standard LA versions seem overly sweet.

Just leave room for the not-to-be-missed coconut ice cream.