Head north up past I-45, past the I-610 beltway and then drive into an unassuming neighborhood. Pass some modest homes and look for a jammed parking lot. You've found one of the best BBQ joints in Texas. Beef spare ribs, satiny brisket and pork ribs are all fall-off-the-bone tender and redolent with smoke. Grab a seat inside or out, but don't wait too long – it runs out and closes early.