This off-the-grid bakery and minimalist grocery at the northwest corner of the park serves legendary bear claws and cinnamon buns. It's the de facto hangout spot in this tiny community, and attracts everyone from grizzled locals to trucker-hat-wearing rafting guides to hopelessly lost tourists.

A handful of rustic cabins (US$110) with shared bath are lined up in the adjoining open field. A slow computer will get you on the internet.