The thin flour-dusted crust of ‘New Haven–style’ pizza at this spacious Wicker Park microbrewery offers a welcome reprieve from the city’s omnipresent deep-dish version. The best is the white variety – a sauceless pie dressed simply in olive oil, garlic and mozzarella – which makes a clean pairing with brewer Jon Cutler’s award-winning beer.

The easygoing, sky-lit ambience changes after dark, when ball games beam down from ubiquitous flat screens, an occasional band plugs in, and the 30-something patrons get a bit more boisterous.