Steak in Gold Coast

Morton’s is a chain now, but Chicago is where it all began, with meat aged to perfection and displayed table-side before cooking. See that half a cow? It’s the 42oz double porterhouse ($114). Smaller – but still dangerous if dropped on your toe – are the fillets, strip steaks and other cuts. The immense baked potatoes could prop up church foundations.

Or you could try the hash browns, a superb version of a side dish all too often ignored. Expensive reds anchor the wine list.