Horsing Around in the Hills

An hour inland from La Pedrera, the Sierra de Rocha is a lovely landscape of gray rocky crags interspersed with rolling rangeland. Caballos de Luz, run by the multilingual Austrian-Uruguayan couple Lucie and Santiago, offers hill-country horse treks lasting from 2½ hours to a week, complete with three delicious vegetarian meals daily and overnight accommodation in a thatched cottage, a dome or a private double room. Call for pickup at the bus station in Rocha (US$20), or drive there yourself (it’s about 30 minutes off Hwy 9).