Surrounded by vineyards, this historic general store sits at a country crossroads 5km north of Carmelo. The fifth-generation Cordano family has made wine here since 1870. Tastings (US$25) are available, but it's equally fun just to soak up the atmosphere while browsing the shelves of local products. Ask to see the diminutive wine cellar, hidden beneath a trap door behind the counter.

Look for the turnoff about 2km northwest of Carmelo, near the Km 257 marker on Ruta 21.