Al Ustad Special Kabab

Iranian in Bur Dubai
Lara Brunt / Lonely Planet

Sheikhs to shoe shiners clutter this funky, been-here-forever (since 1978, to be precise) kebab joint formerly known as Special Ostadi. Amid walls plastered with photographs of cheerful guests, a fleet of swift and quirky servers brings heaped plates of rice and yoghurt-marinated chicken into a dining room humming with chatter and laughter.