Some 140km west of Kyiv, no other right-bank city evokes the Soviet Union more than Zhytomyr. With its well-tended Lenin and Marx monuments, its plinthed tank and wreathed war memorials, wandering old trolleybuses and a fascinatingly nostalgic space museum, Zhytomyr has a kind of time-warped provincial charm that makes it just worth leaving Kyiv to see – but only for a day trip
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