Welcome to Sviatohirsk
Built into a dazzlingly white chalk cliff above the dreamy Siversky Donets River, the Sviatohirsk (Svyatogorsk in Russian) cave monastery is a heavenly sight, complemented rather than spoilt by the gigantic statue of Bolshevik hero Artyom that tops an adjacent hill. At the height of the war in 2014, the front line came dangerously close to the town, which was temporarily used as the Ukrainian military HQ. Now the front line has been pushed a good 100km south, so the place can be visited, but be very attentive to news and developments. Note that you risk being hassled at police or military roadblocks.