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Air

The old and the new terminals of Odesa airport stand 200m apart. The old one, a shabby Soviet affair, was still handling departures at the time of research. The slick new terminal only processed arrivals.

The airport is about 12km southwest of the city centre, off Ovidiopilska doroha. Trolleybus 14 connects it with the train station. The infrequent bus 117 goes to the centre, stopping at Pl Hretska Bus Stop.

Odesa is better linked to Europe than any other Ukrainian city, with the exception of Kyiv. Austrian Airlines, LOT, Air Baltic, Czech Airlines and Turkish Airlines all have regular flights to Odesa, and various regional carriers fly to former Soviet countries. The Ukrainian airline UIA (MAU) has flights from Odesa to Istanbul and Tel Aviv.

UIA and Motor Sich fly between Odesa and Kyiv at least four times daily. Kiy Avia can sort you out with tickets and timetables. Sadly, there are no flights elsewhere around Ukraine.

Boat

Ferry services to and from Odesa are notoriously unreliable, with destinations changing every summer and services ceasing for months on end without any explanation. The only regular service available at the time of writing linked the port terminal at Chornomorsk/Ilyichevsk (30km south of Odesa) with the Georgian ports of Batumi and Poti (from 3500uah, 80 hours, every two to three days). Tickets are available from Ukrferry (www.ukrferry.com).

Bus

Most intercity buses you might need in Odesa leave from the three poorly organised bus stations located within a few hundred metres of each other in the area between the railway station and Privoz Market.

Gunsel buses for Kiev (400uah, six to seven hours, five daily) depart from the new slick, but not particularly user-friendly, Starosinna bus station. Across the road, Privokzalna bus station handles frequent buses for Bilhorod-Dnistrovsky (70uah, 2½ hours) via Zatoka and Shabo.

Closer to the market, the slightly chaotic Privoz bus station is primarily useful for Vylkove (190uah, three to four hours, four daily). Here you can also catch the daily bus to Reni on the Moldovan/Romanian border (210uah, seven hours, three daily) and Chișinău in Moldova (290uah, five to seven hours, many daily). Note that many of the latter pass through Tiraspol (105uah, three hours) in the breakaway territory of Transnistria. If you want to avoid that, ask for a bus going via Palanka.

Buses for Chornomorsk depart from both Privoz and Starosinna bus stations (26uah, one hour, every 15 minutes).

Note that small bus operators migrate between all three central stations, so if there is no convenient bus to your destination at one of them, check at the others.

Most international and long-haul domestic buses leave from the long-distance bus station, 3km west of the train station. Apart from Kyiv, there are services to most large cities in Ukraine, including Kherson (130uah to 170uah, three to four hours, hourly), Lviv (700uah to 900 uah, 15 hours, three daily), Dnipro (440uah, 9½ hours, five daily) and Chernivtsi (530uah, 13 hours, two daily) via Kamyanets-Podilsky.

There is at least one daily bus to Bucharest in Romania (815 to 1000uah, 12 hours).

Train

A daily Intercity+ train (340uah, seven hours) and a couple of daily overnight trains (platskart/kupe 130/350uah, 9½ to 13 hours) connect Odesa with Kyiv. There are also services to Lviv (platskart/kupe 150/240uah, 12 hours, four daily), Dnipro (platskart/kupe 185/315uah, 11 hours, two daily) and Kharkiv (platskart/kupe 210/350uah, 14½ hours, daily).

International destinations include Chişinău (190uah, five hours, daily), Moscow (platskart/kupe 2360/4000uah, 24 hours, daily) and Minsk (platskart/kupe 1450/2200uah, 22 hours, daily).