Halfway between Zatoka and Odesa, but slightly off the main route, the tidy but architecturally Soviet Chornomorsk is relevant for three reasons. One is the wide and regularly cleaned white-sand beach, arguably the best in the region and easily accessible from Odesa. The second is the port terminal that serves the notoriously unstable ferry routes that link Ukraine to other Black Sea countries, most notably Georgia. Third, it now hosts one of Ukraine's two main jazz festivals, Koktebel Jazz, which had to find a new location following the Russian occupation of Crimea.

If either the festival schedule or your desire to spend time on the beach mandate that you overnight in Chornomorsk, head to Fontan – a slightly kitschy, but perfectly comfortable hotel in the town centre.

Still better known under its Soviet name of Ilyichevsk, Chornomorsk obtained its new post-Maidan moniker from a fictional seaside town described in The Golden Calf, a 1920s Soviet satirical book by Ilya Ilf and Yevgeny Petrov.