Feature: Jewish Chernivtsi

One of Chernivtsi's most famous sons was leading 20th-century poet Paul Celan (1920–70), who was born into a German-speaking Jewish family at vul Saksahanskoho 5 (formerly Wassilkogasse), when 'Cernăuţi' was part of Romania. His parents died in Nazi concentration camps during WWII and Celan himself survived one to write his most famous 1948 poem 'Todesfuge' (Death Fugue). He later drowned himself in Paris' River Seine. There's also a Celan monument (Пам'ятник Паулю Целану) on vul Holovna.

Chernivtsi's former synagogue was once famous for its exotic African/Middle Eastern style, but was turned into a cinema in 1954. The Museum of Bukovinian Jews brings to life the now virtually extinct Jewish culture of Bukovyna focusing on the period between 1774 and 1941.

The former Jewish cemetery is a melancholic jumble of leaning, overgrown headstones. To get there, follow vul Ruska (or catch trolleybus 2) until you cross the railway line. Take the first left, vul Zelena, and continue 500m.