Top Choice Teahouse in Dashogus


This is by far the most atmospheric place in Dashogus to eat – a simple, Uzbek-run chaikhana where you’ll eat good home-cooked soups, tasty kebabs and fresh bread. It's a five-minute walk from the Hotel Uzboy: from …
Top Choice Turkish in Ashgabat


This charming red-painted cellar in the backstreets between the train station and the Hotel Paýtagt attracts a thoroughly local crowd, but you'll be made to feel very welcome. It's all about the sublime kebabs here …
International in Ashgabat

Coffee House

This place may be a masterwork of kitsch, but its breakfasts are solid and its coffee is decent, making it a prime hangout for the foreign community. Salads, soups and burgers complete the menu.
Turkish in Ashgabat


The food is good at this friendly local institution and includes pide (Turkish pizza) and delicious kebabs. The service is attentive and swift, although it can get very hot in the summer months due to the wood-fired…
European in Ashgabat

Sim Sim

Now a decade old, this one-time upstart is something of an establishment favourite. Despite its try-hard-and-fail decor, which is just tacky, the service and food here are top notch. The dishes are international wit…
Pizza in Ashgabat

Pizza Haus

This cosy and popular place serves up the best pizza in town, though admittedly that’s not a huge culinary achievement. There’s a big non-pizza menu too, including a selection of breakfasts and free delivery citywid…
Seafood in Ashgabat

Seafood Ayna

With its fabulously '90s interior and Yeltsin-era feeling of luxury, Seafood Ayna is one of Ashgabat’s smarter eating options and one of the few places to get fresh seafood. There’s a sushi menu on top of the seafoo…
Bakery in Ashgabat


This is a charming spot for a strong Turkish coffee and a sweet cake or pastry.
Kebab in Mary

Altyn Asyr

This simple kebab spot in the centre of town serves up delicious shashlyk. There’s a pleasant patio out by the barbeque. Next door you'll find the similar standard Miras Kafe.
International in Turkmenabat


The restaurant at the Hotel Turkmenabat is a good choice – its menu takes in Russian, Central Asian and Caucasian cooking, including Georgian chakhokhbili (chicken stew in a spicy tomato sauce). There's a pleasant g…