Many of Tokat's old buildings still survive, though in ruins, along Sulusokak Caddesi, which was the main thoroughfare before the perpendicular Samsun–Sivas road was improved in the 1960s. With its ancient buildings and dusty side-streets it's an interesting area to poke about.
Sulusokak Caddesi runs west from the north side of Cumhuriyet Meydanı on GOP Bulvarı, past Ali Paşa Camii (1572), which has classical Ottoman features on its grand central dome. Continue along the road and on the right you'll see the tiny Ali Tusi Türbesi (1233), a brick Seljuk work that incorporates some fine blue tiles.
Further on, on the same side of the road, the brick-and-wood Sulu Han is still in use, with its interior painted turquoise and white. This 17th-century Ottoman caravanserai provided accommodation for merchants visiting the Arastalı Bedesten (covered market) next door, which has been superbly reconstructed and now houses the Tokat Museum. Right after the bedesten is the 16th-century Takyeciler Camii, displaying the nine-domed style of great Ottoman mosques.
Across the road from the bedesten are two spectacular buildings that are currently being restored: the Yağıbasan Medresisi (1152), one of Anatolia's first open-domed medreses, and beside it the enormous bulk of the 16th-century Ottoman Deveciler Hanı, one of Tokat's finest caravanserais.
Carry on up the road and you'll come to the tiny 14th-century Kadı Hasan Camii and the Ottoman Paşa Hamamı (1434).