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Turkish in Soğanlı

Hidden Apple Garden

Head down the stairs beside Soğanlı ticket office to find this tranquil garden where Yılmaz Ablak and his family serve hearty meals full of rustic flavour. We could spend all day eating his wife's acılı ezme (spicy …
Church in Soğanlı

Karabaş Kilisesi

In Soğanlı's Yukarı Valley the first church on your right is the Karabaş Kilisesi, which is covered in paintings showing the life of Christ, with Gabriel and various saints. A pigeon in the fresco reflects the impor…
Church in Soğanlı

Yılanlı Kilise

The Yılanlı Kilise sits in the furthest corner of the Yukarı Valley, its frescoes deliberately painted over with black paint, probably to protect them. The hole in the roof of one chamber, surrounded by blackened ro…
Church in Soğanlı

Kubbeli Kilise

Turn left at the Yılanlı Kilise, cross the Yukarı Valley floor and climb the far hillside to find the Kubbeli Kilise. The Kubbeli is unusual because of its Eastern-style cupola cut clean out of the rock.
Church in Soğanlı

Saklı Kilise

Nestling in the Yukarı Valley hillside, very near the Kubbeli Kilise, is the Saklı Kilise (Hidden Church), which as its name suggests is indeed completely obscured from view until you get close.
Church in Soğanlı

Geyikli Kilise

In the Aşağı Valley, the Geyikli Kilise has a monks' refectory and a still-visible fresco on the wall of St Eustace with a deer (from where the church's name is derived).
Church in Soğanlı

Tokalı Kilise

On the main road into Soğanlı, about 800m before the ticket office, signs point to the Tokalı Kilise on the right, reached by a steep flight of worn steps.
Turkish in Soğanlı

Soğanlı Restaurant

This popular lunch pit stop for Soğanlı day tours rustles up a mean gözleme (savoury pancake) and some tasty casseroles.
Church in Soğanlı

Tahtalı Kilise

The Tahtalı Kilise sits at the furthest end of the Aşağı Valley. It has well-preserved Byzantine and Seljuk decorative patterns.
Church in Soğanlı

Gök Kilise

The Gök Kilise is just to the left of the Tokalı Kilise. It has twin naves separated by columns and ending in apses. The double frieze of saints is badly worn.