Head down the stairs beside Soğanlı ticket office to find this tranquil garden where Yılmaz Ablak and his family serve hearty meals full of rustic flavour. We could spend all day eating his wife's acılı ezme (spicy …
In Soğanlı's Yukarı Valley the first church on your right is the Karabaş Kilisesi, which is covered in paintings showing the life of Christ, with Gabriel and various saints. A pigeon in the fresco reflects the impor…
The Yılanlı Kilise sits in the furthest corner of the Yukarı Valley, its frescoes deliberately painted over with black paint, probably to protect them. The hole in the roof of one chamber, surrounded by blackened ro…
Turn left at the Yılanlı Kilise, cross the Yukarı Valley floor and climb the far hillside to find the Kubbeli Kilise. The Kubbeli is unusual because of its Eastern-style cupola cut clean out of the rock.
Nestling in the Yukarı Valley hillside, very near the Kubbeli Kilise, is the Saklı Kilise (Hidden Church), which as its name suggests is indeed completely obscured from view until you get close.
In the Aşağı Valley, the Geyikli Kilise has a monks' refectory and a still-visible fresco on the wall of St Eustace with a deer (from where the church's name is derived).
On the main road into Soğanlı, about 800m before the ticket office, signs point to the Tokalı Kilise on the right, reached by a steep flight of worn steps.
This popular lunch pit stop for Soğanlı day tours rustles up a mean gözleme (savoury pancake) and some tasty casseroles.
The Tahtalı Kilise sits at the furthest end of the Aşağı Valley. It has well-preserved Byzantine and Seljuk decorative patterns.
The Gök Kilise is just to the left of the Tokalı Kilise. It has twin naves separated by columns and ending in apses. The double frieze of saints is badly worn.