Welcome to Midyat
The centrepiece of Eksi Midyat is a traffic roundabout, but nearby, honey-coloured houses are tucked away behind silver shops. Alleyways are lined with houses with demure doorways opening onto huge courtyards surrounded by intricately carved walls, windows and recesses.
Like Mardin, Midyat's Christian population suffered in the early 20th century and during the last few decades, and much of the community has emigrated. There are nine Syrian Orthodox churches in the town, though not all regularly hold services. Although you can see the steeples, it's hard to find the churches in the maze of streets, so accept the assistance of one of the local pint-sized guides. They'll expect a small tip.