in The Golden Horn

This elegant restaurant next to the Kariye Museum (Chora Church) serves Ottoman dishes devised for the palace kitchens at Topkapı, Edirne and Dolmabahçe. Its chefs have been tracking down historic recipes for years, and the menu is full of versions that will tempt most modern palates, including vegetarian.

Sitting in the pretty outdoor courtyard or somewhat bland interior, you'll dine on dishes such as stuffed quince, goose kebap or the 'fatty apron' kebap, featuring lamb and beef wrapped in caul (stomach lining) fat.