Top Choice Turkish in Western Districts


This elegant restaurant next to the Kariye Museum (Chora Church) serves Ottoman dishes devised for the palace kitchens at Topkapı, Edirne and Dolmabahçe. Its chefs have been tracking down historic recipes for years,…
Cafe in Western Districts

Aziz Cafe

Expats eagerly consume the wi-fi, excellent chocolate brownies (₺8) and less impressive coffee (₺7) at this friendly neighbourhood spot, which fills with İstanbullus on sunny weekends. The limited menu includes mant…
Pide in Western Districts


In a bright and informal space dominated by a long kitchen table, Forno serves delicious pide, pizza and lahmacun (Arabic-style pizza). The weekend breakfast buffet (₺35) is a rich spread replete with towers of brea…
Turkish in Western Districts

Agora Meyhanesi

Dating from 1890, this city institution has recently changed hands but its new owner, Turkish film actor and director Ezel Akay, has worked hard to retain its traditional rakı-soaked atmosphere. The mezes are so so,…
Bakery in Western Districts

Evin Pasta & Börek Salonu

Stop at this neighbourhood bakery cafe for a quick lunch of meat or cheese börek (filled pastry), followed by a cake or Turkish dessert.
Köfte in Western Districts

Köfteci Arnavut

Unsigned and unassuming, this famous köftecisi first opened in 1947 and is overseen by the son of the original 'meatball seller'. It is known for its köfte (meatballs) served with piyaz (white beans). Look for the r…
Turkish in Western Districts

Kömür Turk Mutfağı

Located amid the wedding-dress shops on Fatih's main drag is this five-floor Türk mutfağı (Turkish kitchen) where brides-to-be join businesspeople and worshippers from the nearby Fatih Mosque for lunch. The gleaming…