In the former Jewish quarter, about a 10-minute walk from Ulu Camii, cobbled Sakarya Caddesi is a busy lane of fish restaurants. Crowds wander between the al fresco tables, joined by waiters carrying trays of rakı (aniseed brandy), and the occasional accordion-wielding fasıl (gypsy music) band.

Of the two-dozen eateries, the best is Arap Şükrü, named after its founder, an Independence War hero whose descendents still run it. If it is full, dining next door will likely be equally enjoyable. Be warned that your bill may be higher than you anticipate; many establishments add a cover charge for live music.