Bodrum's fish market (sometimes called manavlar for the fruit stands at the entrance to this small network of back alleys) offers a unique sort of direct dining: you choose between myriad fresh fish and seafood on ice at fishmongers' tables and, having paid there, bring them to any adjoining restaurant to have it all cooked for ₺15.
If in doubt, waiters can help you decide – options run from top-end catches to cheaper farmed fish. It should cost about ₺10 for enough farmed sea bass or bream for one, but few fishmongers will go that low and many will try to sell you a whole kilo (₺25). Sea fish costs from about ₺80 per kilo, so here and in all seafood restaurants, if you pay less than about ₺25 for a portion then you may be eating something that is not fresh or is from a farm.
The plain restaurants spill across the small streets, which get incredibly crowded and have little atmosphere, save maybe for the people-watching. If you can’t decide which one, pick the busiest-looking place – locals are fiercely loyal to their favourites.