The nightly 45-minute whirling dervish ceremony is held at the Sarıhan. You must book ahead – most hotels in Cappadocia will arrange it for you. The price may vary according to how much commission your tour agent or hotel is skimming off the top.

Though the setting is extremely atmospheric, the sema is nowhere near as impressive as those staged in İstanbul. If you've seen one of those you should probably give this a miss.

There is a free shuttle (seats must be booked when you book your tickets) that leaves at 8.30pm from Göreme's otogar.