Sleeping

The most atmospheric – and central – place to stay is the old town of Kaleiçi, a virtually vehicle-free district that has everything you need. Kaleiçi's winding streets can be confusing to navigate, although signs pointing the way to most pensions are posted on street corners.

Many pensions and hotels close from October to April; those that remain open offer discounts. Parking and airport pickups can generally be organised with advance notice.