The place where the fish-pedicure craze has it origins, bathing at Balıklı Kaplıca is an unusual experience. The spa complex has six segregated pools, a cafe above the mineral water, and the musty Balıklı Kaplıca Hotel (doubles from ₺180). Hot-springs rates depend on whether you define yourself as 'visitor' or 'patient'.
According to local lore a shepherd boy discovered the healing qualities of the local mineral water here, high in the dermatologically curative element selenium, and noticed that the warm water was inhabited by 'doctor fish' that sloughed dead skin off any body part you offered them. The fish supposedly favour psoriasis-inflicted skin and the spa attracts patients from all over the world, but the swarming school happily gets stuck into any patch of flesh. It is wonderfully therapeutic to dangle your feet in the water and feel nature giving you a thorough pedicure, with the nippers tickling and then soothing like tiny vacuum cleaners.
The recommended course for genuine patients is eight hours a day in the pool for three weeks.
Dolmuşes from the terminal beside Sivas' otogar run to Kangal (₺10, one hour, hourly); from there you can take a taxi to the resort (₺20). Balıklı Kaplıca offers group transfers from Sivas.