Top things to do

Top Choice Tunisian in Tunis

Café Culturel El Ali

This is indeed a cultured hideaway, with atmospheric wood-beamed ceilings, a library, sofas and a rooftop terrace overlooking the Zaytouna Mosque. Charming staff serve up citronnade (fresh lemonade, TD4.5) with almo…
Tunisian in Tunis


With a busily tiled interior, TV, flickering neon and simple Tunisian staples (specialising in spicy Sfaxian dishes), this is a good-value neighbourhood favourite.
Tunisian in Tunis


As befits a bar cunningly disguised as a restaurant, this is buzzing and convivial; lone women might find it intimidating. With paintings on the walls and big globe lampshades, you might think yourself in Paris. The…
Tunisian in Tunis


Dimly lit by ornate lanterns and decorated with carved wooden screens, this has a Moroccan feel, a discreet TV in the corner, affable waiters and tasty seafood and meat dishes.
Paella in Tunis


Tucked down a seedy alley, this cosy corner with red tablecloths and low lighting is favoured by Tunis businessmen, who retreat here for long lunches to peruse the long wine list. It specialises in grilled meats and…
Tunisian in Tunis

Café de Paris Brasserie

This handy little diner serves up pizzas, pastas, couscous and French, Italian and Tunisian salads in gargantuan serves. It also serves alcohol, as does its (all-male) bar next door.
Seafood in Tunis


A bit cramped, with lots of pinewood on two levels, this is a lively place popular with heavily smoking businessmen. It serves alcohol alongside good simple seafood.
Tunisian in Tunis


Remarkable value is the name of the game at this small, popular, friendly place, with good-quality traditional food in pleasant, relaxed surroundings. Service is fast.
Tunisian in Tunis

Chez Nous

This feels like an Italian-American mobsters' haunt. It's in a snug back room and is nothing fancy, but the food is good and there are faded black-and-white photos of faded stars on the walls.
Tunisian in Tunis

Dar Bel Hadj

This is a grand traditional restaurant in a sumptuous 17th-century mansion, an extraordinary surprise after the medina's narrow streets. The food is delicious and recommended. Try the Tunisian mixed hors d'oeuvres a…