Inland from Batugade is the pleasant mountain town of Balibó. Terrific views and the old trees lining the good road down to Maliana give the area a cool mountain feel, but it's best known as the town where five Australia-based journalists were killed by Indonesian soldiers in October 1975.
The Australian flag the journalists painted for protection is still visible (just) on Balibó Flag House, which now houses a memorial, cafe and community facilities. Here, you can watch Greg Shackleton's final, chilling broadcast. The Australian film Balibo (2009) was based on these tragic, and still unresolved, murders.
A restored 18th-century Portuguese fort stands on the hill opposite, housing a small gallery and the excellent Balibó Fort Hotel, which opened in 2015.