Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Winter Hiking in Polish Tatry

Country forums / Eastern Europe & the Caucasus / Poland

Seeking advice for hiking Polish Tatry in late December/early January. Husband and I have previously hiked there during late spring and summertime. We are fit, early 30's.

We'll be sleeping at Kalatówki and would like to try a few nearby routes up into the mountains, for example, hiking to Kondratowa Hala and upwards from there.

Do we need crampons and ice axes? Helmets and ski masks? We want to be safe and prepared but don't want to spend more $$ than necessary. If we do need to buy gear, it'd be helpful to hear from someone with personal experience. It's impossible to choose between "lite" and "technical" versions of equipment not knowing the conditions of Polish Tatry in late December/early January.

Currently we both have waterproof boots with flexible soles. Must we upgrade our boots to fit proper crampons or can we manage using microspikes (e.g. Kahtoola) with our current boots?

Can we rent crampons/boots and ice axes in Zakopane?

Finally, any specific trail recommendations or warnings?

Any and all advice is welcome. Thank you!

p.s. I have read http://www.tpn.pl/en/zwiedzaj/bezpieczenstwo/news/175/Winter-in-the-Tatras-%E2%80%93-My-First-Time

I am not convinced you've thought this through.

Most hikers go in the summer as there's more daylight, you can see what's on the ground under your feet etc. Crampons, ice axes etc are for permanently frozen terrain, glaciers etc. None of this in the Tatras.

What you may find is snow, possibly lots of it, could be knee-deep, waist deep or more. Soft flaky stuff, so ice axes no use. Blown into great drifts and filling in valleys, holes or other hazards. Nobody's going to bother clearing hiking trails of snow. You can't really hike in waist deep snow, too much hard work, and you;ll be permanently stumbling on hidden obstacles.

Sorry if I've misunderstood what you're aiming to do - it doesn't make much sense to me.

1

You would need both snow-shoes and crampons and ice axe. Snow-shoes for the conditions described above and crampons and axe for frozen rocky ground.

In addition a rope and knowledge of avalanche and other snow conditions; such as cornicing, will be essential.

2

This is precisely what we have tentatively planned over the course of 6-8 days:

  1. warmup - from Kalatowki, nad reglami as far as we can go in a day
  2. through Murowaniec to Kasprowy Wierch and Liliowe, back down on the cable car
  3. through Kondracka Przelecz to Dolina Malej Laki
  4. through Przelecz pod Kondracka Kopa to Kondracka Kopa and back down the same way

We're basing this on our previous experiences and studying the map.

AndrewSmith: are you dissuading us from hiking entirely? We have been there before when there's been ice/snow in late spring and enjoyed the trip immensely.

Tryfan: we don't intend to summit peaks, e.g. Giewont/Kasprowy/Rysy, but rather to hike the passes and valleys stated above. Does your advice still hold?

Can someone tell us if our plan above is doable? Any additional ideas/advice?

We're grateful for all input. Thank you!

3

  1. warmup - from Kalatowki, nad reglami as far as we can go in a day
  2. through Murowaniec to Kasprowy Wierch and Liliowe, back down on the cable car
  3. through Kondracka Przelecz to Dolina Malej Laki
  4. through Przelecz pod Kondracka Kopa to Kondracka Kopa and back down the same way
  1. not advisable, due to high avalanche risk at the Kalatówki - Dolina Białego stretch
  2. that's doable
  3. a big no for first-time winter hiking - high risk of avalanches both during ascent and descent from the pass.
  4. doable only in very favorable snow conditions - when the snow is old and firm enough, that is not after fresh snowfall - and even then not advisable for first-time winter hiking.

I think staying at Kalatówki is not the best idea, as the choice of winter accesible trails from there is limited. Better stay in Zakopane proper and uses the frequent private minibuses to get to the trails. For first-time winter hiking I would suggest not to walk above the mountain huts. The hikes to Morskie Oko, Dolina Pięciu Stawów (there is some risk of avalanches en-route, be sure to take the winter version of the trail) , Murowaniec are all attractive and relatively safe in winter. The Ścieżka nad Reglami is also accesible in winter apart from the stretch mentioned above.

4

ig0r: thanks, I was hoping to hear from you. To clarify, we've been winter hiking just not in Polish Tatry. What is the highest avalanche warning in which you would still hike numbers 1 and 3? Dziękuje!

5

I would attempt route no. 1 up to level 2 avalanche warning, being very careful when traversing couloirs. Regarding route no. 3 - even during the lowest avalanche warning level do not attempt it without a guide/someone who has done it before. Apart from avalanches (on this route they are likely also with 1st level avalanche warning), there are other dangers - including orienteering problems (trail markings under the snow), ice (esp. beneath a layer of snow) and the risk of falling into something that is hidden under the snow (e.g. a precipice).
Route no. 4 can only be attempted during level 1 avalanche warning; proper crampons, ice axe, avalanche beacon and very good wind proof clothing are essential. The stuff that you don't have can be easily rented in Zakopane.

Generally everything is highly dependent on the weather - after (or during) a fresh snowfall you won't be able to go basically anywhere. If the weather is good and stable for a longer period of time, you'll have more possibilities available.
Just don't make any fixed plans before you go, so that you're not tempted to risk too much to follow your plans. The best advice you'll be able to get will be on the spot in Zakopane.

6

Hi do you know of any tour guides who will organize a half day hike up one of the Tatra Mountains starting around Zakopane?

7