Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

West of Ireland coast: Co. Galway, the Burren, Connemara

Country forums / UK & Ireland / Ireland

Hi
Can anyone advise non-touristy spots along the coast: Burren, Co Galway, Connemara. I would like to see some real places off the tourist trail, the low key places preferably where locals go and maybe hear good traditional music or small hidden beaches which involve a walk or scramble; places where traditional crofting/rural life exists would be great. I am going this July/August to check out possibly relocating from rural Scottish highlands - we are swamped with caravans, big camper vans and cars this year and I would like to avoid the same in Ireland! Any info/experiences gratefully received.
Many thanks
C

Hi Cath. You will struggle to find anything not within a bull's roar of tourists in July/August on the west coast. Galway in particular and even Clare will be very busy but maybe less so this year as the British stay home with their weak pound and the Irish invade the UK with their stronger EUR (it is a strange turn of events when EUR equals GBP and I am paying GBP3 for a Guinness in Soho and EUR5 for a Guinness in Temple Bar - I pick those two places as equivalent). Tuam may be an option as it is not a tourist hotspot (well colder than some places) and has some hidden histroical gems (the high cross in the Church of Ireland cathedral, the Teampall Jarlath ruins). Nearby Ballytrasna/Gardenfield is meant to be nice but that is only what I have been told by someone who has been there.

I hope that helps a little.

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Hi djk, thanks for the inside info.
Jeez that just sounds awful. I haven't been to those areas for a long time, but was just in Mayo which seemed ok in tourist terms (and ok yes there is a reason for that!) though the towns were choked in traffic. Anyway it's a shame we seem to wreck so many nice places with mass tourism - where we live in north west Scotland we are overrun suddenly with holiday traffic of all kinds so maybe everyone is coming here.
So would you just think it totally daft to look in the west ireland for old rural peace/irish culture? This was to be a check it out trip with a view to moving there? What about Co. Wexford?
Enjoy those Guinnesses!
Cathy
(p.s. sorry for delay in replying, been camping on the beach in the good weather)

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Ahhhh. Now was in Wexford three or four weeks back. Glorious. But I can't remember the town we stopped for Guinness in. I have the best stories!!! We walked along the beach where they filmed Saving private ryan so the town was likely to be Ballinesker. Small, quiet (it seemed), nice Guinness good pub but some modern buildings going up.

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Hi DJP
Thanks for that!
Maybe Co. Wexford then is where some real Irish life is left relatively undamaged and mass tourism hasn't discovered yet??. I drove thru last year from Clare to Rosslare and (apart from a mad time going round in circles trying to follow intermittent sign posts to a camp site) was wowed by the countryside and small villages and lack of development. I had thought a lot of newly wealthy folk had moved down from Dublin but maybe am wrong. Is Connemara just a waste of time then?
Have a few real Guinnesses for me, lousey in rural Scotland.
Cathy

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Hmmmm. Ther eis no mythical begorah begorah Irish village life. I don't think anyway, at least not for the past decade. All the beach houses are holiday homes. The holiday brochures lie but you will find quiter towns but stuffed if I know where exactly. Good luck.

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Yes I fear you may be right, but something along those lines has to be worth looking for anyway given some of the alternatives! Many thanks,
Cathy

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In County Clare, Doolin is home to traditional music.
The pubs are all full of tourists, (as it is one of the ports to the Aran Islands) but also frequented by the locals.
McDermotts is a great spot.
In Connemara, the small villages are best. Places like Roundstone and Letterfrack. Clifden is the big town, but always full of tourists. Any of the small towns on bus route are good fun and accessible.
As for the Islands, Inis Boffin is excellent and not as crowded as the Aran Islands.
Overall, Connemara is great. I spend many great days there.

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Hi Peter
That's great, and good news that Connemara is still enjoyable despite today's tourism, many thanks; I had thought of Roundstone but not Letterfrack so I will definitely check it out. I think I might be too old for Doolin if it's got that big as I will be travelling on my own with 8 year old and dog who might not fit in with a big party scene! - do you know any of the Clare coast to the north of Doolin on up to Galway? just wondering if it would be quieter. Big thanks, Cathy (and p.s. if you are in Dublin do you get down to Wexford?) thanks again, C

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