UZ trip report 21st sep to 5th Oct 2014

Practical ( and I hope useful) freshly made trip report

HOTELS
Tashkent –
Gulnara Guest House – 45 USD per double room with basic breakfast –Rooms simple and clean

Nukus
Private house 15 USD per person with rich breakfast ( to be avoided as you need the registrations card)

Khiva
Mirzaboshi Guest House – 35 USD per double room with rich sweet breakfast
The grust house is inside Ichon Qala – rooms are not very clean – place is not so remarkable
The owner has a good restaurant instead, in front of the Kalta Minor with the same name of the guest house

Bukhara
Hovli Poyon – 60 USD per double room with rich breakfast
Exceptional Hotel based in an old house with a great courtyard and diwan to relax – situated in old Bukhara and close to all mosques and madrassas.

Samarqand – Antica Guest House – 50 USD per double room with rich breakfast
Very good guest house, clean ( modern rooms are better and cheaper than the old fascinating ones ) situated just in front of Gur Amir and 10 minutes walk from Registan. Managed by 2 nice sisters.

RESTAURANTS
Tashkent
National Food – close to the Chorsu bazar – in front of the Circus – good food but not suitable for vegetarians

Khiva
Mirza Boshi restaurant – good food – starter + main dish is about 3 usd per person
Gur Mimbaz – good food but very expensive (10 usd per person)

Bukhara
Minzifa Restaurant – in old Bukhara – close to Saffaron Bazar – Top quality food on a wonderful terrace – starter + main dish is about 4 usd per person

Hovli Poyon – can organize a dinner in the lovely courtyard - very good food – rich starters + main dish for about 5 usd

Samarqand
Laghman centre – in front of Navoi park – good food , cheap but not suitable for vegetarians

Starter + main dish is about 3 usd

Antica Guest House
Good food in the guest house courtyard, but very expensive – 10 usd per person ( starter + main dish)

TRANSPORTS
Urgench/Nukus
by taxi 170.000 SOM (56 usd)

Khiva/ Bukhara
by taxi 300.000 SOM (100 usd)

Bukhara/Samarqand
by train 2nd class – 26.000 som (8,70 usd) – Sharq train bought directly at the station (very easy procedure) 3 days before dept

Samarqand/Tashkent
by train 1st class – 52.000 som (17,34 usd) – Sharq train bought directly at the station 3 days before dept

Samarqand –Shakrisabz-Samarqand
taxi costs 60 usd if booked through the guest house ( I guess 40 usd if taken on the streets)

Metro in Tashkent is 1000 som per person, each journey

Taxis
Tashkent : Chorsu Bazar / Airport 15.000 SOM – around the city between 5000 som to 15000 som it depends on the distance
Samarqand: Antica Guest House / Train station 8000 SOM
Bukhara: Hovli Poyon / train station 20000 som

ORGANIZED EXCURSION
Aral Excursion organized by Jipek Joli Hotel
(o/n in tent + 4 meals x 4 persons + transportation on a 4wd with driver) the total cost is 642 USD (for Eurozone residents: please take usd with you to pay this excursion otherwise you loose about 32 euro on their weird exchange calculation, in fact they have charged us 535 euro !!!)

SITES & MONUMENTS
Khiva: 2 days pass 30000 som per person (but you have to pay extras if you want to go on the top of the minarets or terrace)

Bukhara
Between 4500 som to 9000 som per person (Mosque – Madrassa-Museum)

Samarqand
Gur Amir 5000 som
Registan 16500 som
Bibi Khanoum 10000 som
Shah Zinda 7000 som

Shakrisabz 9000 som

MONEY
To exchange 1 euro at the black market (easy) was between 3600 and 3850
Ask for the 5000 som notes so that you will not carry a lot of banknotes with you

Travelling in the country was very easy although language problems.
Nothing was disappointing except the usual people outside Tashkent airport – just ignore them and go straight.

SHOPPING
Suzani (embroidered bags, purse, blankets). Do not expect to find jewellery (apparently you find them in Turkmenistan and Kirghizistan). Best shopping is in Bukhara as Samarqand is quite uniform and not unique.

Ciao!
Dani

Thank you so much Dani for taking the time to post this info. It is really useful. I take it you would recommend Uzbekistan?! 2 or 3 weeks do you think?

Ciao 69liz. Yes, I do recommend Uzbekistan.
Samarqand & Bukhara is in the dreams of every traveller, everyone who read about the history of Amir Timur and Gengis Khan. The only disappointment is that once you have been in Samarqand and Bukhara you cannot dream on it anymore !
I guess 2 weeks is more than enough unless you need to go to Fergana Valley or Termiz, then you should add 2 days.
Ciao!
Dani

Much thanks for the information.
- I didn't understand the comment about the private house in Nukus, though: ...avoid that one only (...or all private houses?) because they can't do the registration? Do you still have to do so in each town you stay in?
- About Gulnara Guest House: $45 sounded a bit expensive. Were you a single traveller, and if not would a single traveller have had a lower room rate? Also, I've tried to email them for info (gulnara@globalnet.uz), but messages returned as undeliverable - mailbox full. Anybody have other email/Web site for them? (Or other suggestions for accommodations? I expect to be there soon.) Thanks.

I'd recommend 3 weeks if you want to see Tashkent, Samarkand (& d/t to Shakrisabz), Buhkara, Khiva and Nukus + Aral Sea tour. That's how much time it took me and it was fine, maybe even relaxed.

Gulnara has dorms for US$15. Try gulnarahotel@gmail.com - you may want to book in advance for peak season. It was a great place to meet other travellers, and one of the most modern places in Uz I've stayed at. There's also Mirzo, pretty near, but I've never actually stayed there.

The OP means that you're supposed to register at every hotel/hostel you stay at in Uzbekistan, by law. Officials can slap you with a fine (or bribe), if you're missing too many when you leave.

Hi joetoo
Uzbekistan request a registration receipt for every night you stay in Uzbekistan. This receipt is given by hotels/guest house only and you have to keep them into your passport until you leave the country.

The cost of Gulnara was for a double room ensuite. The email address doesn't work. I have called them.

In my personal opinion 3 weeks in Uzbekistan is too much time. The tour I have made in 2 weeks is more than enough. If you have 3 weeks add Turkmenistan to your trip!
Ciao
Dani

Much thanks, Dani and Mateki.

I paid $25 a night at Gulnara Guesthouse as a single person in a double room with bathroom. For some reason they don't reply to their emails. You have to call them and it is a good idea to book in advance as they often fill up. Great place!

Thanks Dani!
That is super helpful and really gives a clear picture of what we can expect. Can I ask you a few questions?

1. Did you book these guest houses prior to your trip? or did you just find them on the streets when you arrive at each city?
2. I was under the impression that lodging could be slightly cheaper around $20USD, are these 40-60USD pretty standard? I'm talking about an average place.
3. So with all these costs traveling independently (entrance fees, guest houses, transportations) how much was your per person cost and your total days in Uzbekistan? (I assume the transportation is quoted per person with train and the whole taxi?
4. Did you book all the transportation when you got to the city? I don't really have 3 days prior to go to the train station to book tickets, I only have maybe 2 days per city so would that be a problem to secure tickets? (march 2015 low season)
5. Did you group hire guides or wish you did hire local guides?

Thanks so much!!!
Vivian

Hi Vivian
here the answers:
1- No. I had some addresses with me, but you can easily find guest houses on the spot, especially Bukhara and Samarkad. I have only booked the guest house in Tashkent. But you have to call them. Email doesn't work.
2- 40/60 usd was the price per double room. It all depends on what you are looking for. If it’s just a place where to sleep it’s easy to find cheaper guest house. I always try to get an accommodation with clean rooms and character. And sometimes this costs more.
3- Apart from the air-ticket I spent 700,00 euro (accommodation-meals-transportation-entrance fees-excursion to Aral)
4- I think you can buy tickets the same day. September was high season but I didn’t notice so much crowd on the trains.
5- I haven’t used any guide. I have studied before the trip and I had a wonderful Italian book guide with me.
Enjoy it!

Dani

Thanks Dani! Thats wonderful that you found guesthouses that have some character. I will go with your recommendations for sure! I really appreciate you sharing your trip with us!!

Vivian

Hi Dani,

Sorry I have a few more questions!!
1. did you book your transportation beforehand? your pricing listed is per car? (excluding train) or is it per person with shared taxi?
2. if you booked your transportation on the spot, was it very difficult to negotiate or get one?
3. for the 10 hour ride for $100 from Khiva to Bukhara - how did you book that? thru a guest house?
4. did you see people offering guide services at the locations? for me, its probably more enjoyable if I can find a local guide to explain the wonderful history and culture behind the sights.

These questions would help me decide if I can travel independently without a guided tour (which I'm being quoted around $800 USD for 1 week per person for double occupancy) Thanks a ton!!!

Vivian