Southern Iceland summer 2013 trip report

Catching up on some trip reports :)

I’d just gotten a new job starting in 10 days and signed an apartment lease. I figured the correct breakdown was 7 days of taking a completely spontaneous trip to Iceland plus associated flight time, and a day or two of moving :) Trip preparations included booking a flight 24 hrs in advance, buying a Lonely Planet Iceland book, and tossing all my camping gear into a pack. Note: this worked because I already had good camping gear, warm clothes, and rain gear.

Day 0 - Arrived to Keflavik International Airport. Luggage had been lost. It was pouring rain. I spent the day calling the airlines, seeing the underground museum in town, walking along the harbor, talking to the helpful tourist office in making a plan, and eating herring at Cafe Loki. Stayed in Loft Hostel downtown.

Day 1 - Found out that my luggage was going to arrive late that night, woohoo! Rented a car and drove the Golden Circle sights. It was a bit later in the day by the time I got out, so the crowds had mostly left. After stopping back in Reykjavik for my luggage, drove out to the Selfoss campground to spend the night.

Day 2 - Continued driving and visited Seljalandsfoss. Drove on to Skogafoss and did the waterfall hike up to and just a little beyond the ladder, where there was ice on the ground, then turned around. Drove on to Vik. Purchased groceries for a lovely picnic on the black sand beach watching sea birds. Drove on to Kirkjubæjarklaustur to camp (the terrain on the drive there from Vik was otherworldly!).

Day 3 - Drove to Skaftafell and did a glacier hike. Drove to Jokulsarlon and spent a couple of hours watching birds, walking around. Drove back to Skaftafell and hiked to Svartifoss. Camped at Skaftafell.

Day 4 - Couldn’t sleep well, so I got up at some unreasonable hour and started driving back west. I decided to turn off of Route 1 and see what the ferry schedule was to Vestmannaeyjar. It turned out people were running to the ferry, so the schedule was “right now” and I hopped on! The ferry ride was long enough for a nice nap, but I’m glad I woke up for the scenic approach to the island. Hiked out to the golf course side of the island to see puffins nesting in the cliffs. Hiked up Eldfell. After ferrying back, I drove on to Grindavik to camp.

Day 5 - Drove/hiked around seeing geothermal features at Krysuvik. Returned my rental car and found a hostel space in Reykjavik.

Day 6 - Went to the Blue Lagoon including bus transportation.

Day 7 - Departure.

Comments on campgrounds/accommodations:
Loft Hostel - wonderful. Had all the little things that make it easier in a hostel, like plugs and reading lights by your bed.
Selfoss campground - quiet and spacious. Nice hot showers and a kitchen with a stove and space to sit.
Kirkjubæjarklaustur campground - scenic and quiet, with some sheep in the adjacent lot to keep you company. It has a small kitchen, but I didn't use it so not sure about the stove situation.
Skaftafell campground - it felt a bit crowded, so I didn’t like it that much. I don’t remember what the shower or kitchen situation was.
Grindavik - lovely! Small space, so not as far from other tents. Lots of kids due to having a playground. Best hot showers, and nicest, cleanest kitchen with scenic views at the tables.

It worked out beautifully, and Iceland became one of my favorite places in the world. I went back again two years later with my fiance (now husband) and we spent a lot more time and went all around the island. Between the relaxed/just-let-you-be Icelanders’ approach, the 24-hour sunlight in the summer, having a rental car, and having a tent, I felt more free in Iceland than I have anywhere else in my life (not even constrained by time - with the sunlight in the height of summer, you can hike at whatever time of day you like!). Maybe the spontaneity added to that feeling, who knows. I really look forward to going yet again someday!

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