Returning to Belize after 10 years - what to expect?

I lived in Belize for a year in 1996-97 and last visited in 2002. I recently learned that a good friend of mine passed away in an accident and my Belizean "mom" is very sick. I'm trying to plan a trip for this winter for family (husband and 18 month-old). Any long time travelers have any advice on what has changed in the last 10 years? Places we will probably travel to include Placencia, Caye Caulker and the village I lived in - San Felipe in Orange Walk District. We will definitely rent a car, so I'm not that interested in information about the buses, but how are the roads these days? Is the water taxi still in the same place? Placencia was sleepy and quiet and beautiful the last time I was there. Is it still? Any special advice about traveling there with a young toddler?

I'm so excited to go back!!!

The changes haven't been drastic since you were there, but there have been some. More so on the Placencia peninsula than Caulker, I'd say. The biggest change in Placencia is that the peninsula road has been paved -- amazing difference! Lots more condos up and down, and some McMansions, including a bunch toward the north end of the peninsula. But the village itself isn't that different once you get off the road.

Caulker has added quite a few hotels and restaurants, but it still has sand streets, few vehicles and is still laid back. The feel is about the same. Just somewhat busier and more expensive.

I don't know San Felipe that well but just driving through from time to time it doesn't seem to have changed much since the early 1990s.

Roads are generally better. Can't remember offhand when the Southern Highway was paved, but I believe the paving began in 2000 or 2001 and final short unpaved section was completed around 2010. That has made a huge difference down south. The government is working on a road from the Southern Highway near PG to the Guatemala border.

The Hummingbird Highway was resurfaced in the 90s, don't recall exactly when.

Northern and Western Highways (now, respectively, called Philip Goldson and George Price highways) are about the same. There is a paved bypass around Orange Walk Town. The Boom Road bypass around Belize City passing the prison to Hattieville is now fully paved.

Don't think there's been any change in the road to San Felipe. There is now gravel road from just south of Orange Walk Town to Shipyard and eventually connecting with the road to Lamanai and Indian Church. The roads northeast of Orange Walk toward Little Belize, Progresso and the Shipstern peninsula and Sarteneja have been upgraded a little but are still mostly unpaved.

There are now three water taxi companies to the cayes from Belize City, two from the old Marine Terminal and one from nearby at what is called the Brown Sugar terminal near the Tourist Village.

--Lan Sluder

Just about everything I'd have to say has been covered already.

The Coastal Road is still unpaved.

Belize City Council has been improving some streets in Belize City.
The taxi fare from the airport has gone up to BZ$50.
Avis car rental no longer operates in Belize.
Gasoline is about BZ$11.00 per gallon.

You might notice a difference in Hopkins -- it's becoming more popular.

The USA Embassy has relocated to Belmopan (if that matters to you).

Prices of most grocery items have increased (naturally), but only by a small amount -- you probably won't even notice. Example: it's hard to find rice & beans for $5 anymore; $6 or $7 is the more usual price now.

The GST (sales tax) was introduced after 2002.

Hi,
I rented an SUV 2 years ago.
They do not want you to go off paved roads.
But most of my driving was on paved roads anyway.
Did go of to the Jaguar place on Cockscombe.
Took my Garmin GPS which was very useful. The map the rental agency suppled was not!

Thanks everyone for your responses!! Super helpful. I'm getting more and more excited about going back.

And mistergay - I'm really glad to hear that. I remember being introduced to a man in Cayo as Belize's only gay man. I didn't believe it at the time because he seemed pretty happy (so probably had some friends), but he was probably one of Belize's very few openly gay men at that time for sure.

One other thought - how is medical care these days? Traveling with a little one I have to worry about things like that. When I lived there, nobody trusted the local care and everyone with any serious medical concerns would travel accross the border to Mexico. Is that still true?

For anything really serious, many people still go to Canada, USA, Merida, Chetumal or Guatemala.

But there are some private clinics/hospitals in Belize.

Placencia will be the only real shocker. it has changed a lot since the 90's. lots of condos. All the old hotels going to the town are gone, taken over by new owners and totally revamped. there may still be a couple of holdouts in Placencia town , but that's it. Roads were really good the last time I was there. better road in Orange walk and going toward San Felipe. You will see all the changes. A good time will be had by all