Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Photographing in Iran.

Country forums / Middle East / Iran

Hi, my name is Vic, I’m an Icelandic male. I will be spending a month in Iran late this summer.

I'm an amateur photographer. I don't take the usual turist photo's and during my time I will be snapping a lot of pictures so I'm wondering how to avoid trouble. I have a few questions, but any tips, doe's & dont´s and general advice is much appreciated!

  1. Taking pictures of people. Someware I heard that you’r supposed to ask people in Iran before you take their photo. Is this true? Isn’t Iran pretty similar to other places in the world in this respect? Sometimes when you ask people in advance you loose the moment you were looking for. People start looking into the camera smiling. Maybe that’s not the image you were seeking. I want to be able to take pictures of people doing their daily life, relaxed and not conscious of the camera. So if I snap a photo of somebody without asking in advance, could I get into trouble? What kind of trouble? Would the police help me out or would they make the situation worse? Don’t I have a right, legally, to take a persons photo without asking?

  2. Taking pictures of women. I’ve heard Iranian women are rather camera shy. I was wandering if there are any written or unwritten rules about taking their picture. Doe’s it matter if the woman is married or not or if she is accompanied with here husband or not? Doe’s their age matter? Would they pose on a picture if I would ask them? How should I approach them?

  3. I know taking pictures of military and governmental buildings is strictly forbidden. How about the police? If you point your camera in the direction of a police officer, could that meen trouble? How do you know if the building your taking a photo of is governmental or not? Which documents should I have with me at all times? Isn’t a photocopy of my passport and visa enough?

  4. Safety. Carrying a expensive camera 24/7 throughout whole trip, in the cities as well as in rural areas, day and sometimes at nights, using public transport. Is this going to be a problem? Would it be dangerous to take pictures at night time? Taking pictures in rural areas?

  5. Entering and leaving Iran with 50-60 roll’s of film and a couple of cameras. Isn’t that ok? Would I get any questions about why so many roll’s or why two cameras? The last thing I want is to be suspected of espionage. Also, do the x-ray machines in the airport safely scan high asa film?

  6. Demonstrations/Protests. I saw a BBC documentary about Tehran recently and in it the journalist walked alongside a lot of people in a huge demonstration without trouble. I know demontrations can turn violent. But violent towards who? To each other? The police? Towards objects or towards turists & foreign journalists? How violent? Doe’s the iranian police allow turists to take pictures during a demonstration. Isn’t it reasonably safe? Are there any examples of foreigners being attacked during a demonstration?

  7. Taking pictures of private property. I’ve heard you need to ask before taking pictures of private property, for example a shop, a bazar or a café. How true is this? How about taking pictures in the middle of the street, using a tripod and staying at the same place for some time? Would that be considered suspicious? Sometimes people don’t understand why you are taking a particular photograph and maybe they or the police could think that was suspicious. Any advice? When do I need permission?

  8. Taking pictures at religious ceremonies. I there anything in particular to consider? Is taking a picture of a pilgrim allowed? Are there any sensitive aspects to consider? Sensitive objects? Taboo’s?

I know these are a lot of questions, but any advice would be deeply appreciated!!

p.s. I’m a white male with long hair. Is that going to be a problem? The hair I mean? Would everything I mentioned above be more easy for me if I had short hair?

Thanks a lot!
Vic

I understand that you want to get 'natural' photos but I think it's rude to take photos of people without asking them. They are not animals in a zoo.

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Dear Kali737

So people are not animals in a zoo! Ok, it's a good thing you confirmed that for me because I wasn't quite sure. I always mix those two together.
You have no reason to assume that I wouldn't pay people enough respect! I'm only asking a lot of questions so that I would better know how safe the situation is!
Now if you have anything useful to add that would be much appreciated.

Vic

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Dear my friend:

As you want to know about all your questions coz I am a tour guide I will answer all of them:

1) Taking pictures of people is ok but whenever they are in public or I mean in outdoors but anyway it is ok if we speak with them so it is ok all the time.
2) Taking pictures of women is allowed but the culture made it difficult I mean that one year ago I was with a Swiss tourist (professional photographer so he wanted to take a pic from a woman who was driving but she shouted and I also told him that she does not like to take photo from her. So again is ok whenever you are in public but you must be careful. But if you speak to them and convince them even you can film from them .ok?

3) taking pic of a military base is not allowed but from a governmental building is ok no matter, but for entering the military bases you must provide the necessary authorizations from the Iranian government,

4) Taking photo from the demonstrations or even protests is free for all domestic or even foreign photographers but remember you must tell them that you are not going work for CNN or FOX NEWS or U.S. news networks.

5) Taking photos from a private property is not allowed or you should speak with them and satisfy them to make film or take some photos. And about the religious ceremonies is ok but again that ceremony must be in or for public .but as a whole is ok.

6) As about the pilgrim is ok but again you have to satisfy or tell him the reason or the purpose of your action. But if you satisfy and make friends with them can be ok.

7) As you said about the expensive camera in rural areas it is ok but when you go to a rural or far place you must know the area well because there are a lot of places in Iran that are far from cities as you know Kavir Desert & Lut Desert are the most famous of them.

8) As for the long hair, in my opinion, you’d better to shorten them, to tell you the truth it is not bad in public you are free but is better to shorten them.

At the end I hope that you will have a safe / secure and great trip to Iran by the way, I have sent you a private message for you pls check.

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As any real photographer knows, authorities and sometimes even non-authorities often interfere with photography even when the law does not support their position. I have run into more problems taking photographs in the US than in Iran and so have many other photographers (see sites such as PhotoPermit.org for examples of this sort of thing)

I was once temporarily prevented from taking photographs in a park on a mountain hiking trail. After some debate, the man in charge said that the real reason was that often, boys and girls would come to meet each other at the park in secret, and he didn't want their photos to be seen in the news since their families may not approve! I swear this is true! I had to promise him that I would not take photos of people, just nature. So when I arrived there, everyone had cameras and was busy taking photos of everyone else. In fact a number if couples gave me their camera and asked me to take their photos together. (I saw some interesting cameras - usual digital stuff, and a Zenit!)

A lot of people take a lot of photographs in Iran (See Flickr for examples) however Iran (as with other countries) requires news and professional photographers to be licensed and have the proper news person visas and permits from the righ ministries. If you raise suspicions that you're a professional or news photographer, then you will be required to abide by the laws. In my experiences in Europe, this suspicion can be created simply by using a fancy camera.

Legally in Iran you can photograph everything that is in public unless it is specifically prohibited. Embassies and consulates usually have signs that ban photography. Shopping malls often ban photography due to the fear of burglary. Military bases and airports, as you can expect. Cameras are also not permitted in some religious sites which is unfortunate because I have seen beautiful scenes in some mosques. Mosques which are open to tourists, however, like the mosques in isfahan - no problem.

Women? legally, yes if she's in public. In practice, she and possibly others will object seriously if you shove a camera into someone's face without her approval. In many cases, people will be happy to allow you to take photos, and will appreciate it too.

You have to understand that Iranians have very detailed and formal rituals of "politeness" and you should respect them. I remember a man who sat in front of me on a bus, who turned around and apologized for having his back towards me! (But, if you drive in Tehran, you're free to be a madman and a danger to everyone!)

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A bazaar is usually not private property by the way. And in my experience, using a tripod attracts too much attention -- too many people show up and want to pose! Police don't mind as long as you're not interfering with traffic. Just smile and be polite. Learning a few farsi phrases may help to - Salam (hello) Merci (thank you) Aks? (Photo?)

As an LF and MF photographer, I have often left with many rolls of film. I often beg and plead the airport authorities not to scan the film in the x-ray machine (Never had a problem but why risk it?) One time, I was able to convince them to only scan a few randomly chosen rolls instead of all of them.

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Oh, and one thing that WILL look "suspicious" is if you take pictures surreptiously or in a hidden manner! So, let your cameras hang out, make it obvious that you're a photographer.

Edited by: hassani1387

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Vic there is no need for sarcasm.

At times when I've had cameras stuck in my face by strangers in the street i found it offensive and treating me like a zoo animal, hence my comment. Therefore I don't think it's acceptable behaviour.

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hi,
I see. You are detailed oriented and would love to write long essays, right?lol.
anyway, to answer some of your questions:
a) dont take anyone's pic without asking him or her first. I think perhaps taking 'group photos' where bunch of average people are sitting, chatting or walking together in a public place, is fine and you would not need to really ask their permission. But, for example, if there is this young made up gal sitting on a bench in a city park while talking to his boyfriend? then ... you know. I do not think if you zoom on them with you powerful camera they would be very happy about it if they knew.
b) dont take photos of military installations or the Police or any one in military looking (armed forces) uniforms.
c) Most if not all shop owners would not not allow you to take photos from inside, while you are in! of course there is not much they can do is you take their photos from across the street. I personally think this has to do, at least to some degree, with the fact that by and large this is an excessively paranoid and cynical society where people hardly trust each other, constantly worry what if and often think of the worst possible scenarios for anything imaginable.
d) take a nice, small digital camera if you can! and yes, bringing along 60 rolls of films might and probably would raise suspicion at airport immigration unless you good in convincing others like Iranian authorities! Remember you may not travel to Iran on a tourist visa for any purpose other than simple tourism and sightseeing. So, if the Iran Govt at some time comes to conclusion that you are in fact something like a photo journalist, freelance or whatever, and not a mere tourist then you would be in trouble! By the way, I am sure you know Iran is very tough on issuing press visa and hence foreign journalist especially Americans hardly ever get to come here. and once and if they do get visa they tend to be on short tight leech during their stays here until they they go back home. I have even read in local papers that there is this large, special committee at Ershad Minisitry which keeps track of everything they write or publish on Iran thereafter!

d) it is summer and it would not hurt if you cut your hair a little although not necessary. and watch out for your camera because you will never see it again if stolen. Please see my private message. Good luck.Bye.

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Dear Muhammad110, Hassani1387, Amiriniran & Kali737

Thank's very much for great advice, I think I will cut my hair if that'll make things easier.

Vic

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I can't add too much more than what has been said already, but women especially don't like to be photographed, even after speaking to a young woman and her boyfriend for 5 minutes in Esfahan, only the male would let me photo him. If you want to photo people best is to scan around a park/public place with your camera, quickly clicking when you are at the right angle you want (as opposed to setting up a tripod or zooming in and out of your subject for a minute, making it obvious what you're photoing).

Travelling with long hair is annoying, in the iranian summer you will need to wash it and dry it every day, which will almost become the whole point of your evenings/mornings, so you might as well get it cut and make it easier. Up to you though yu will probably still have no problems

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When it comes to taking photos in Iran, the best rule to follow is 'when in doubt, ask'.

As the previous posts mention, the same rules apply in Iran as anywhere else. It's generally OK to photograph a larger group of people in a public place, but proper to ask permission for individuals, couples, small groups.

I've photographed a demonstration in Iran and not been hassled. Most 'demonstrations' in Iran are government sanctioned and peaceful. They WANT you to take pictures. That's one of the reasons they're demonstrating. You'd probably be wise to steer clear of the infrequent demonstrations against the government.

It's hit and miss with shopkeepers but whenever I buy something in a shop in Iran (water, fruit, bread, etc), I ask to take a picture of the shopkeeper. They always say yes.

My experience in rural areas of Iran that don't see many tourists is that people are quite suspicious and would likely take a dim view of a stranger snapping photos. It's always best to get to know people and explain yourself.

Generally government buildings (like the Majlis in Tehran) are off limits for photographing. Sometimes its hard to tell, though, and on a few occasions I've been waved away by policemen. Nothing more.

In my experience, Iran is as safe or safer than many other countries, as long as you use common sense.

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On a recent trip to Iran my partner and I were in a small restaurant in Shiraz. We were both concentrating on preparing and eating our dizi and didn't pay any attention to the flashes until we realized the camera was on us. An Iranian family seated on the other side of the room were rather amused watching us eat dizi the wrong way and were snapping pictures. When I realized what was happening I picked up my camera and took pictures of them. We all had a good laugh then. it was quite funny but at that point I decided I did not have to be so careful about photographing people.

Seriously though, I usually did ask and found that people did not pose. Just carried on what they were doing.

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Some advise:

If people are posing for the camera, just take the photo then pretend to be finished. People will relax, looking away from the camera and then you make quickly a second photo. This photo will be more spontaneous then the first one.

If people seems to be reluctant to take their picture, just promise them to send them the photo. You can use an example print with a stamp and address on the backside, to explain your meaning. Ask them to write their address down. Of course you have to keep your promise.... I even took once a mini photo printer with me so I could instantly print the photo's from my digital camera.

Good luck,
RJ

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As I know how difficult is sometimes for a photographer to make more than just snapshots, let me add some comments on this thread:

Not only in Iran, you are supposed to ask people before taking their photo everywhere in the world. Unless you are on a mission for NG. That's politeness. Especially for portraits. Somewhere is understood to pay a small fee for it, even to children. In public places in Iran, like streets or squares, where people form only a fraction of your frame, is shouldn't really be any problem. If you notice you are annoying too many people, like seeing them changing their direction of walking, or women covering their faces, just wait a while or simply move to another location. Do not get pushy in situations where they can't avoid being in front of your camera, and they give obvious signs showing they don't want be photographed. Lower your camera and show that you respect their will, apologize even if it is not necessary to people concerned passing by.

However, there is a difference in cultures. Islamic culture considers photographing women wothout prior agreement inpolite, inappropriate and rude. In some places like Yemen you might get a stone in your head or camera. Iran is tolerant country, acting like this would in worst case result in shouting at you, either by woman or man. Many times you might get away with quick snap - they nitice you but pretend not to. Take into consideration that it is a big difference between major cities, which are more liberal, pakced with domestic tourists with digital cameras or videos, or rural areas, whre is better always to ask. Note that sometimes it's better to ask a man first for photographing his wife or daughter. Take a shot of him too, so he won't feel ignored.

A few hints I consider useful:
- make friends and acquaintances, linger with them for a while, arrange a late afternoon stroll, they can help with language barriers, and are more easier convincing others to be photographed,
- start a conversation, like "which town are you from", a few sentences relaxes people, especially families with children, who are curious about foreigners; they will not feel like an object in a matter of seconds,
- say you are a hobby photographer, and photographing to you is an art,
- get to first bookshop, find a nice big book with plenty of photos of Iran, and learn the photographer's name, and use it, they are couple of them well known throughout the country, knowing them will rank you more serious,
- print your best and most attractive photos of people and stack them into small album to show when your potential models in doubt,
- mention why you want to photograph particular person, for example "she has a beautiful eyes" or "his beard is remarkable (or well taken care of)", or "this child's look inspires me"; never mention womens' body shapes or say "she's sexy",
- get a sleeveless jacket or a badge with your (any) photo club visible, or try to look professional in any way,
- tripod is a great idea, set it a bit aside of crowds, prepare slowly, keep your gear (photo backpack) in front of you or below your tripod (you never know), you might quickly get someone beside you giving you a bit of advice of dos and donts,
- some towns are spectacular at night, they have electricity to spare, so many squares and monuments are beautifully lit (try Hamedan main square, one of the buildings is a police station, and you can't say which one, so if you point right at it, someone pasing by will tell you); night out is safe as there is no nightlife and no alcohol, it's unlikely one would harass you,
- many people pasing by you beside a tripod will say "Welcome to Iran!". Reply always!
- wear a smile
- if something looks like military or government installation, then probably is - steer clear of it!

- and one more thing which I am not so sure about it, but I think it's worth mentioning: if a particular middle-aged person asks you many questions (not only what you think of Iran, or Iranian people, this will be asked by everyone), like in which town you were yesterday, what you went to see, how long are you staying in this town, in which hotel you are, when you move forward, and how, bus , plane or train, or provoke any political or religious opinions), it is likely to be a government agent, so just provide him with all the information, it will ease their work in tracking you down, and make you less suspicious.

It's well remembering also that being religious is more respected than being ateist, so you don't have to pretend to avoid religious debates. In Quran there is a chapter consacrated to Virgin Mary (Miryam), and many great personalities from Old Testament are being highly respected in religious schools, like Salomon (Suleyman).

Like Europe using latin letters in many different languages, Iranians use arab letters, but their language is farsi and they are Persians (not Arabs). Keep that in mind!

As for demonstrations and religious public events, I can't think of a good advice. Grab a guide or ask a policeman!

And yes, long hair, many would consider it messy and untidy, so get rid of it, it'll grow again.

This is from my experience, the world is turning all the time - I hope those friendly, trustful and tactful Iranians will never change.

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learn a few persian phrases
`aks giriftan lotfaan?[ my broken farsi is really coming along!!!!!!!!!!!}/take picture please
dast dard na koneed/thanks
chetor e?/how are you
Khoob e/i 'm good
poul/money
shomaa englisi baladeen?/ do you speak english ?
etc.

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Hello Vic,
did you come back from your trip?
I have planned to go to Iran in the middle of August and I'm photographer like you;
Have you seen the problems mentioned in your post?
Please let me know your feedback

Cheers

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