Part SEVEN - Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

We chose a 3-day tour of Ha Long Bay spending 1-night on a Chinese junk and the last on Cat Ba Island in a hotel. The junk was a big surprise, not being what we expected at all. We were prepared to sleep on the floor, which I have done – have even slept in caves - part of the experience and all that. It was an excellent experience. Ha Long Bay

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We had purchased our Ha Long Bay tickets the month before when in Mui Ne. The actual company was Tran Dang Trading Tourist Service, at the Singh Café located on 52 Luong Ngoc Quyen Street, Hanoi. Their van picked us up at our hotel, and along with 10 others, we trundled out of town toward Ha Long City where we would meet our Chinese junk. In my asking questions it was interesting to learn the ratio of rice produced: Hanoi = 1 crop / year; Hue = 2 crops / year; HCMC = 3 crops / year. Obviously the climate makes a difference. It was also interesting to learn about the delicate balance of not enough, or too much water - - for I had erroneously assumed that rice grew, more or less as a weed.

On reaching the bay where our junk was berthed, we found it a genuine obstacle course to actually get to ‘our’ junk.
Click Here We had to be exceptionally nimble and able to lift up a leg, to reach access to the deck of a junk (not ours) – of which said height, was past my waist – next heft up one’s body into that junk – walk across it – carefully - hop down (I slid down) – and start the process again. In one case, I gave up and quite hauled myself up and over arriving in a very undignified manner on all fours on the main deck – but at least I DID arrive. haha. And I have to say, that they did offer to help us. After some good stretching and balancing acts, we finally accessed ‘our’ junk.

It was amazing to watch the manoeuvres necessary, in order to get our junk OUT, from all the other junks and – and next out into the bay – without colliding with anything. And I do mean ‘ALL the other junks’, for the bay was packed solid with water vessels, and fumes were hefty. Only with excellent ability, did we make it – so top kudos definitely went to our captain and his crew. Once we were out in the bay, travel was easy and certainly not crowded with boats, but perhaps this was because of the time of year. Click Here

Being that I was digging for a jacket in my bag while other passengers were mooching about elsewhere, we were the first asked if we wanted to stow our bags - and were promptly offered the Captain’s cabin. I didn’t think anything of it, until I entered the room. I was quite in shock as had not at all expected this. We were provided two beds complete with ensuite and enclosed shower no less. Two walls were glassed in so that when I lay in bed I had a fantastic view of the sea and the many stunning karsks. Bedroom Window pic before hoisting anchor However, all too soon, another junk dropped anchor positioning itself within inches to ours. I decided to permanently close that one wall of curtains (left), for I had looked up to see a fellow in the neighbouring cabin staring at me in shock - he was in the process of getting dressed – ooops. But no matter - I still had the wall of windows at the foot of my bed in which I could stare off into the distance, which in the evening - was full of twinkling lights from anchored boats and junks. And it was lovely.

All meals were provided – we paid extra for any liquids such as coffee, alcohol, juice, water, which made sense to me considering the fee I paid. Dining Room

We toured about and later anchored at Cat Ba Island, where a small bus picked us up and drove us to Cat Ba National Park, where we hiked up two exceedingly steep karsks to "see the view". Click Here The foliage was dense and the humidity thick. The red coloured earth, was slick as soap. There were now 18 of us, and people were slipping and skidding all over the place .... lots of shrieks and unprintable exclamations ..... hellishly slippery and VERY steep - going down was far worse ..... I gave up trying to be careful about what I grabbed ... desperate for purchase I grabbed bloody well anything that presented itself. Portions of the karsks had metal ladders – i.e. round thin metal bars used for steps and clamped to the rocks – and at times I was terrified in feeling my feet wobbling. I discovered I’m not good at that kind of thing. However, I need to point out that it certainly was not the company’s fault that all was so slippery, for we made the choice to come at this time of year – a time when rains are possible. I made it all the way up … and then all the way back down to within metres of the end - - and THAT is where I produced a beautious slide on my butt – what an idiot ! I had been excessively careful with every step and grabbed absolutely anything available in order to stop my skids and lurches – but as I was 3 metres to the end – and I could now SEE the end - - I must have said “Yahoo” ..... and totally forgot just how I managed to reach that point. How could I ?! Sheesh !! Everybody thought my tumble was hilarious, especially as I was the only one to make it that far without getting covered in mud. They say one is more social if they join the group. Surely, allowances can be made. UGGGG :)

Once at the bottom and on flat ground, we immediately discovered that we were decidedly filthy being well decorated in red coloured mud with odds and ends of weeds and whatnot hanging about. A woman appeared and offered to pour fresh water into our hands (no cost) in order to try to wash off some of the guck – a nearly hopeless task to get clean – but at least it salved the psych enough to encourage purchasing a cool drink or ice cream bar from the fellow who was standing right behind her :) Everything I brought with me on that tour (I was SO glad I had stuffed in my small tote, another pair shorts and 2-tops) ended up in the wash once back in Hanoi.

We explored varying caves and islands. Sung Sot Cave was a seemingly endless wealth of amazing limestone formations – we wandered from cave to cave with each being absolutely huge and quite lovely. As the tide was down, we were able to venture inside some grottos and view some lovely lagoons.
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I have this bad habit of always wanting to see what is at the end of various trails/openings. And we, or rather I, ended up panting and gasping up endless stairs in Lan Ha Bay – to reach the top of this karsk which proved to be a nicely kept and large kiosk type viewing area with spectacular views.
Tiny Kiosk at Top
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Later I didn’t feel so bad, for when coming back down I found I had to step around many others, who were stopped on the endless length of straight up stairs, and trying to catch their breath. When down at the bottom, I found the crew together with a few passengers, having a game of … ? Sort of hacky sack ball, with ‘sort of’ being the operative phrase. Tossed the thing about with everyone producing deft kicks and magnificent dives – with some not so magnificent landings. Haha. Great entertainment. Having Fun

I loved to see the floating salespeople in their tiny boats – and especially enjoyed the sight of a lone fellow together with his market goodies and his 4-footed furry friend (dog) – which spent its time either avidly peering over the side into the ocean or watching the world go by, cuddled next to his 2-footed buddy. And of course often the entire family was helping.
Note the Little One in the Middle of the Produce
Catch
Everyone Helps
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In travelling off again, we found ourselves in a group of 5 other junks all travelling the same route Cllick Here and it was nice to be able to climb up to the roof and sprawl out - when the weather suited - or simply stand about and take in the spectacular scenery.

Our choice of vessel, proved more than adequate for the two of us, however, I have included the following 2 pics for those thinking of taking small children along (a desire of which I have often read in the Vietnam forum) – for here you can clearly see that there is little room when out of the main windowed dining area … and thus I would firmly suggest a harness as an absolute necessity. And for others wishing more room, then to choose a larger vessel. Hubby Looking Out
Gotta be careful

We chose to go kayaking in the middle of Ha Long Bay and got lost - would you believe it !! We both kept thinking, ‘just a little bit further over here ... now a little bit over there... and... of course we became more enamoured and more curious with - what is that - let's go look !! .... and so on. Click Here

Mind you, once returning home, I read of other very dangerous experiences when kayaking and being caught in the grottos with hefty undercurrents. So in that – we were lucky. We were guided to our kayak - handed our vests – climbed in – they said “enjoy”. We then next lost our brains we did. We found we had travelled a huge distance and hadn't realized it – for the bay that we thought we were paddling about in was gone - and at the end - we realized we had completely circled a number of karsks thinking we were going down ‘channels’ and could return. All looks too much the same that’s for certain. We came across a tiny floating village ..... I was so frustrated ..... so finally H agreed that we could paddle in and try to enquire if someone might know where these non Vietnamese elderlies might ‘usually’ be kayaking. Fortunately, once we got near the village, I thought I recognized a tall decorated pole on a dock which I thought we had recently vacated – it was much further out in the sea and on another karsk. We paddled over, and as luck would have it - it was 'ours'. Phew..... Had visions of our demise noted in the local media. Actually at the time I was debating that with dark coming on, I should head for a karsk offering some protection from the elements – but to access I would have had to first jump in - AND – I had a brand new camera with a nearly full 1-GB memory stick – which decidedly held up any thought of diving in. We were lucky – and I still don’t know how we ended up where we did. It is so easy where I live on the lakes or the sea about the islands. But that bay area was a totally different matter. Enough said.

We also travelled on a motorized sampan to visit floating villages Click Here and stopped at a small floating school out on the ocean – created and supported by the British Government. Click Here
I noted the nicely lined up rafts on each side of the school, which the children used for transport – just as an area full of parked bicycles.

Cat Ba Town has exceedingly steep limestone karsks rising straight up directly behind most of the buildings facing those entering the bay. There are a number of restaurants lining the sea promenade and elsewhere. Cat Ba Water Front After a dinner and comfortable night in a hotel on Cat Ba Island, the next day we travelled back to Ha Long City using the junk, and there we had lunch and were bussed back to Hanoi, each delivered to our respective lodgings. That really was excellent service.

The entirety of picking us up from our hotel - driving us to Ha Long City - the junk (minus the sampan) - the bus to the hiking spot on Cat Ba Island - all accommodation, food (excepting anything to drink which includes coffee and water/tea) cost us $49.00 Canadian each. I was safe, well fed and was continuously occupied - and when I balanced this against their fee – truly, I don’t know how they managed it. All in all, it was an excellent experience and we provided a solid tip in thank you.

When we were returned to Hanoi, as the WIN was full, we picked up our bags which the WIN had graciously stored for us, and walked over to Camilla-2 where we had next reserved. This one was $8.00 less per night, did not have the magnificent furniture and balcony, but it was more than adequate with a large bath room – with a real tub ... whooo hooo! .. and there was an elevator no less. Too - breakfast was quite substantial.

The Camilla-2 had a tour office in their foyer, which was manned by a very pleasant and competent young woman. She purchased our Visas to China for us - bus ticket to Nanning - flights from Hanoi back down to Nha Trang and so on. We found this excessively helpful. Yes – one can walk to the Chinese Embassy and wait in line to apply for a Visa … and we did just that. And after nearly 1.5 hours standing in line, we were advised that the Embassy was not taking any more applications that day and we should come back the next day. Hmmm….. well, needless to say, we decided to acquire our Visas to China using a different method.

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thanks for such detailed info. Its another trip that's definitely on the to do list.

ha long is my next destination...after i reach hanoi tomorrow...so found your story interesting & full of good info

..i will check out you agency but probably go it alone...however who knows what i will do when i get to hanoi...things change but you've given me some useful input

thanks

Great stuff Liamh ... love the struggle to board the junk. Similar situation in Honiara when I was trying desperately to board the Compass Rose II ferry to Malaita ... no gangplank, no steps, stairs or any other elevated platform ... got a great big push on the butt to get up high enough to grasp the railings and then more of a push to topple over them. Not dignified in the least, but caused a lot of laughter from the masses of onlookers.

Gotta love the photos as well.

Thanks liamh ...very timely info for me.

It is amazing sleeping overnighting on Halong Bay. Got to be one of the most beautiful places in the world. I sure hope is doesn't get spoiled by greed for the almighty dollar.

I am so pleased some of you are getting something from my journal.
Watsoff .... if I had been that clear with my description ... I don't know if anyone would purchase a ticket. heh heh
I agree with you oonks .... we thought the same thing ... you need LOTS of money to safeguard such a large area.

I did a similar trip in May. Highly recommended.