Mines danger in the further sites

Hi Travelfolks,
I am planning an overland trip to the further temples like Banteay Chhamar, Preah Vihear, Beng Mealea, Ko ker. I have read some reports of people who have traveled to those sites (including AndyB). Can it be dangerous to wander around the ruins inside these sites of have they been pretty much cleared from the mines? I assume that walking on pathways will be safe, but I have read that, sometimes, in order to get to specific temples, the pathways are not well marked. How much of a risk is to do this way?

Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it (since I like my life and don't want to lose it!).

Don't worry - all of the temples named have been cleared of mines - I only saw some signs in the distance around Koh Ker and Sambor Prei Kuk - but this was rather far away from the actual temples.

Beng Melea has wooden walkways inside and well defined paths outside. It's safe to walk there as uniformed temple staff lead visitors on a circuit through passages and breaks in the walls. There's some mild climbing involved. The staff don't ask for money but a tip is gratefully accepted.

All the sites that you mentioned have been cleared of mines in the past few years. However, at sites that were very heavily mined like Koh Ker and Prasat Preah Vihear, the mine clearing operations have so far only been completed in the core areas and not in the surrounding forest. Therefore, do not stray from the marked paths when visiting there.
The red skull & bones sign saying "mines" such as the one that Elziax #2 saw does not necessarily indicate a mine, but may refer to unexploded ordnance (UXO) as well. These are remnants from the American carpet bombing campaign of nearly 40 years ago (which was particularly intense on Sambor PK for example) and would not explode if you tread on them, but only if tampered with. But of course, if you see such a sign just stay clear.

Good to see that someone is planning to visit Banteay Chhmar. So few people do, and it's such an awesome place. When I visited there I had the entire site to myself for a few hours. Only as I was walking out the next visitors arrived in their rented car. They were two male Japanese twins in their 80's (no kidding), each with his walking stick. We greeted each other and they started speaking to me in fluent Spanish. It just added to the surreal experience.

Cresti, if you have the time try to include Preah Khan Kampong Svay and especially Sambor PK (which is several centuries older than all others) in your itinerary. If not, your choice of four makes good sense anyway in my opinion.

SG

Absolutely second #3: Sambor Prei Kuk was defenitely worth it (because it's so different from all the other temples and also beautiful country side on the way there) - and I also LOVED Banteay Chhmar - even without the Japanese surrealism (I actually did not meet any other tourist the whole day at Banteay Chhmar...)!

I have really enjoyed Bantaey Chhmar over a number of years but a friend told me recently that all the trees have been cleared.

While it is not tourist meca city dont think that you will have it entirely to yourself!

Thank you so much, folks. Your help is always pricelss.

Striftsal,
your words about Sambor PK and Preah Khan KS are encouraging me to make some changes in my itinerary. I was planning on going there, but I am really afraid that I won't be able to reach them easily during the wet season. I am planning on going the very first half of August, and, especially Preah Khan KS, will be tough to get to. The rough itinerary I was planning had to include those 4 sites (Banteay Chhamar, Preah Vihear, Beng Mealea and Ko ker). I have read that the road system between these sites has improved during the past few years, and I am hoping that, once I get to Siem Reap, I will be able to find somebody who can bring me there without erasing my bank account.

1) Do you have any recommendation on trusty people whom I can contact for a trip like this?

My intention is to link them as smoothly as possible with Battambang as well. I will need to get into Thailand by land, afterwards, because I would like to visit the Phanom Rung Historical Park and Prasat Meuang Tam. I was thinking something like this: SR - Beng Mealea - Ko Ker - Preah Vihear - Along Veng - Samraong - Banteay Chhamar - Sisophon - Battambang - Sisophon - Thailand - Phanom Rung Historical Park. I read that the boat trip from SR and Battambang is amazing. Maybe I would head back to SR after Along Veng, take the boat to Battambang and then head north to Sisophon and Banteay Chhamar (getting out of the country from the O Samch border). Adding Sambor PK and Preah Khan KS to the very first part of my trip would depend on the conditions of the road between Sambor PK and Beng Mealea.

2) What do you think of my itinerary? How would you change it?

I REALLY appreciate your help, because I can't seem to make a decision without knowing road conditions.
Thank you.

Even if it would save a good amount of money, I guess it would be impossible to do the same tour with public transportation during the rain season, wouldn't it?

hi cresti, here's my brief thoughts on your planned itinerary....
SR - Beng Mealea - Ko Ker - Preah Vihear - Along Veng - Samraong - Banteay Chhamar - Sisophon - Battambang - Sisophon - Thailand.
Its certainly doable now that the roads in Cambodia have gotten a lot better in the last couple of years. Yes you have to take into account the prevailing weather conditions as some places may get flooded, but Beng Mealea is easy, the road to Koh Ker is very good and then the roads north to PVihear are the best they've ever been. You should then be able to do the rest of your plan quite easily.

Now how to do it...the cheapest way will by motorbike, either on a dirt-bike or as a passenger on a moto. That's how I usually do it (but during the dry season). And that'll be the cheapest way as well, and will take the most time.
By car will certainly be possible I believe (unless there's some really bad rains that take out some bridges or make the road a morass). But it'll cost you a lot more.
There is no 'public' transport as such. You could wait for share-taxis/trucks between the various points, but you might be waiting a while til the cars fill up.

If you add in Preah Khan KS and Sambor Prei Kuk as well, this will add an extra leg onto your trip, which could be tricky as Preah Khan can be very hard to get to in the rainy season and Sambor PK will be quite a diversion from your original route (though worth it in my view). You didn't mention how long you have to do the trip...if unlimited time, I think you should try for everything. Though expect it to be a 'tough' trip (especially if its raining) both physically and mentally. I hope you're a temple nut like me...or else you might get 'templed-out' at some point.

Ok, my suggested guides are located in Siem Reap and Kompong Thom. They are Rieng (in SR) or Sokhom (in KThom). Both have been my guides for years now and they are the best in my view and a lot know more than most. You can see their contacts details at:
Recommended Guides
Either I believe would be willing to do the trip. Sokhom spends all his life on his moto ferrying travellers around northern Cambodia, so he's a definite. Rieng prefers the comfort of his car/4WD these days, but can be persuaded to get his moto out again. Another option is Heang (in SR) who has done the trip you want to do (and is a native of Sisophon so knows Banteay Chhmar very well). All 3 are 100% reliable and excellent drivers, guides & friends.

Hope that helps a little.
Have a great trip,
Andy

Visit my

I was just on your site, Andy. I've visited it more than a dozen times and I can't get enough of it! I printed out the info of your guide recommendations, thanks.

I will be in SR for a week with my wife, and we'll do the "usual stuff" together. Then she is going back home and I am staying for another couple of weeks. I am not a beach person and getting to Ratanakiri/Mondulkiri will be tough during the rainy season, therefore I was planning to remain "in the area" and explore the outlying temples. I read that the Preah Khan KS is still pretty much covered by the forest (not as spectacular as the other outlying temples) and this, added up to the fact that it's hard to reach, discouraged me from visiting it. I thought that I could get a good idea of the area by just visiting the other temples. Do you really think that Preah Khan is a must?

And, about sunsets... which are the best places to end each day in Angkor and see a beautiful sunset? I already have on my list the following: Phnom Krom, Angkor Wat, Phnom Bakheng, the Western Baray. Would you add other spots? I would like to end my visits everyday in a different spot. What about Ta Keo?

Yes, I am a temple nut like you, by the way.
:)

Ok, another temple nut here - again :)

Cresti you can definitely trust Andy B, he is THE authority on this matter here. I will just try to give some additional advice, based on what I know.

Prah Khan KS is another extraordinary site, but as I told you in another thread, perhaps the least astounding of these Big Six, and also the most dilapidated. Plus, it is also the most difficult to reach, especially in the rainy season, due to worse access roads there.
I'd say, decide when you are there, based on what the weather has been like. Remember that there might be a pause in the rainy season around that time, although the weather pattern this year has been quite irregular so I'd better not venture into forecasts:)

A good itinerary without PKKS would be: Siem Reap - bus/taxi to Kampong Thom - Sambo PK - Prasat Preah Vihear - Koh Ker - Beng Mealea - SR. This way you will also be more or less following a chronological order, from the most ancient to the Angkorian-era monuments. Forget about public transport along this loop. But if you do choose Sokhom - whom I also recommend - for a motorbike ride, you could probably release him at Domdaek where the road from BM joins NR6. He'll go back to Kampong Thom and you can easily find a taxi or pick-up from DD to Siem Reap. For PPKS, best bet is probably a dash from-and-back-to Beng Mealea, at least you could be able to make it to the monumental bridge along the ancient royal road.

From SR you can then work your way through Banteay Chhmar and on to Thailand. If you also visit Battambang, there are smaller temples around there as well, Prasat Banaan the nicest.

Sunsets at Angkor? You already have the best sites listed. Ta Keo is very tall but in the middle of a forest so not a great view from there. I would recommend Pre Rup for that, followed by Eastern Mebon. Both are serene temple-mountains, not many visitors there at sunset time, for sure (everyone will be at either P. Bakheng or Angkor Wat).

Hope you'll have a great time, give us a feedback afterwards if you can

SG

Andy, Striftsal, folks, your help is priceless, as usual. Thank you so much. I am really excited about this trip. It feels special.

One last question, guys.
How much is it appropriate to tip the guide in a trip like this?