Marseille current safety and crime

I’m an English guy who’s been living in Marseille since July 2014 and am offering an update on the crime and safety situation from a local perspective.
As a visitor you’re unlikely to be in the city long enough to be a victim of crime so don’t be put off coming. However, myself and every resident I speak with here has first hand experience of crime with the most common being snatch thefts, pickpocket, theft from cars, theft of bicycles / motorbikes. I’ve had a bag snatched, I saw the thief take it and I chased him. This is the first time anything like this has happened to me, I’m almost fifty years old and have lived in some dodgy areas of major UK cities with the worst that happened being a bike stolen from the entrance hall of some flats where I lived.
Certain parts of Marseille are a lot more dangerous than others. The forest of CCTV cameras recently installed may have made areas like the Vieux Port and Panier safer but based on my experiences and what I’ve heard from long term residents, here are some points to bear in mind:
Snatch thefts of jewellery, especially neck chains occur on the tram and the metro. Also thefts of watches, so if anyone asks you the time, you don’t know. Why would they ask you the time when they almost certainly have a mobile phone?
Pickpockets operate all over the city but especially on the metro. St Charles station is nowadays crawling with security guards and soldiers. Be very wary of people bumping into you, groups of young people kicking a football around which happens to cross your path...and as the young man goes to get the ball he somehow bumps into you while his accomplice is reaching for the mobile they saw earlier on outlined in your trouser pocket.
I nowadays use various concealed wallets when I’m out and about in the city centre, because I’ve lost count of the number of attempts at theft that have been made. I have a shoulder bag that can carry a smartphone, wallet, set of keys and can be concealed under clothing. Local people I know never carry a bag with them in the evening.
I suggest leaving your nice designer watch, gold jewellery and smartphone behind and when you’re on the street, use one of the free maps available from the tourist information.
The area bordered by Allee Gambetta, Rue de la Grande Armee and la Canebiere should be avoided as should the side streets running down from St Charles station. There’s nothing of any interest around there in any case. One exception might be the vegetarian restaurant Grain du Sable on rue Baignoir, open lunchtimes. The area running from Cours Belsunce, around Rue Colbert up to Port d’Aix is extremely dangerous and notorious for snatch thefts. An ambulance crew, collecting a patient recently had their smartphones and the works phone stolen from the front of the ambulance while they were getting the patient in to the back. This was where I had a bag snatched in broad daylight. So if you’re thinking of strolling up to the Arc de Triomphe and having a picnic on the grass under the trees – don’t. This area is also the end of the motorway A7 and there are reports of motorists being robbed who’ve come off the motorway and stopped the car to check directions.
Every day I see at least two or three cars with the rear window smashed in. If you bring a car with plates from outside the city, especially foreign ones, it’s just a matter of when, not if, it will get broken into.
The beaches are also notorious for thefts. Plage Prophete, Catalans and Prado have free cloakrooms from June to September and you are well advised to use them.
As a visitor, you may well end up around Cours Julien, which is a lively area with some great cafes, bars and several excellent venues for live music. Unfortunately it’s also become a magnet for druggies, street drinkers and aggressive beggars and care should be taken in this neighbourhood.
Some music venues you might find your way to are the Docks de Sud which is a superclub holding techno, drum and bass all nighters and Nomad Café. Both are in the beginnings of the quartiers nords, the nearest metro station is Bougainville although Docks de Sud is on the tram network. You should organise transport back to wherever you’re staying (unless you’re planning on an all nighter) this is definitely not a neighbourhood to wander around in after dark.
Bougainville is also pretty sleazy day or night with drug dealers openly operating under the noses of the security guards.
There are lots of free festivals, open air cinema in the summer and again, be careful with bags, belongings in these situations.
Another venue, not very easy to access, is the Friche Belle de Mai, a former factory with a spectacular rooftop bar which opens on Fridays and Saturday nights during the summer, it hosts some of the best club and live music nights the city has to offer. It's in a poor neighbourhood, some consider dangerous, although I've never experienced problems around there or felt unsafe. Nearby is a repertory cinema, the Gyptis, which has films in their original language.
Don’t be put off coming here, I love the city and I’m very happy here, but it is dangerous, violent and crime infested and is somewhere you need to be on your guard to a much greater extent than in other places. Much of the serious crime is gang and drug related and is most unlikely to affect a visitor unless you take a bus out to one of the housing projects in the notorious quartiers nord and look for trouble. These are like the favelas of Latin America, entire housing projects or estates controlled by criminal gangs which the police can only enter when there are several vanloads of them, armed with assault rifles and body armour. If you’re curious, google the Hotel du Nord project which offers homestays in the North of the city and guided walks. Some efforts are being made to improve the lives and chances of people in these areas but to a large extent whole sections of society are disenfranchised.
Talking of the police, there are news reports in France at the time of writing of robbers posing as fake police, using a blue flashing light on their car, pulling over drivers to then demand wallets, mobile phones and other valuables. These thefts are occurring on motorways during the early hours, between 2 and 6 am and are reported to be taking place in Provence Alpes Cote d’Azur and Languedoc Roussillon. There was a spate of these thefts a while ago between Paris and Normandy, it seems the perpetrators have moved South. Something to be careful of if you’re driving.
I’m sure plenty of people will now respond by saying how they visited the city and never felt safer, all I can say is these are my views based upon lived experience of twelve months in Marseille. I hope it’s helpful.

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thanks a lot tommo for all the great information on marseille.

#1 im totally for freedom of religion and opinions. but enforcing the sharia law ? i hope you are not serious.

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Well, I am one of those people who spent some time in central Marseille (including the sleazy areas) and felt completely safe, even when taking pictures of "local colour." I will admit that I had no reason or inclination to go to the northern arrondissements, so I cannot comment about them.

Tommo68, the vast majority of the dangers that you describe also exist in Paris, which is a city that generally has a good reputation in spite of these problems. I live in one of the poorest parts of Paris, full of refugees and petty crime, not to mention drug dealers. Frankly, I spend little or no time out on the streets between 2 and 6am which is when most of the unsavoury things happen (probably true for just about any city), so I find your report both sincere and unnecessarily alarmist.

Do you think you are really helping by scaring people about Marseille?

I'll admit that my last trip there dates from 2 years ago, but my experience was so positive that I am a bit dismayed by some of your observations. Here is the report that I made: Marseille kaleidoscope

Sure, the dangers I describe exist in just about any city, but to a greater degree in parts of Marseille than others. I don't think it's alarmist to describe the very real dangers that at the time of writing are present largely in the 1st, 2nd and 3rd arrondissements. Other Marseille residents will back up what I say. If people reading my post are 'scared' then that is their response to my writing, I'm simply conveying my experience of the city, which is that it it's somewhere you need to keep a hold on your belongings and be aware of what's going on around you to a greater extent than is perhaps the case in other cities. I understand now there are parts of Marseille that are simply no go areas. I used to dismiss this, having lived here now I understand people are serious when they say for example they don't go into most of the third arrondissement and if they drive through Port d'Aix they keep the doors and windows of the car locked and at night don't stop for red lights.
I live in a very middle class neighbourhood two metro stops from the city centre. Last year someone was shot dead in one of our local bars in the middle of the day. Three weeks ago there was a fatal stabbing on the street. I myself witnessed a shooting a few months ago in the city centre, outside the Centre Bourse shopping centre.

'Do you think you are really helping by scaring people about Marseille?' ... I'm just saying, Just saying what I've seen and experienced.
Petty crime is not so petty for the victims by the way. Especially given that you generally can't insure against pickpocket and snatch thefts.
I'm not going to list all the positive things I love about the city because I think the fun in travelling is for a visitor to discover those for themselves...it is a great city for wandering around in, the 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th arrondissements especially. The quartiers nord are worth exploring through an organisation like Hotel du Nord who can bring alive Marseille's industrial history. There is great shopping here with some amazing vintage stores, a great vintage market on the Canebiere Saturdays mornings, loads of independent stores selling everything from designer household items to clothing to CDs and DVDs. The nightlife is scattered all over the place with some superb venues and always an up for it, enthusiastic crowd. There's the cafe culture aided by the superb climate. and so on...

Last known number of inhabitants in 2012 in Marseille: 850.726 - today probably some hundreds more including you. Do you think they all have the same experience as you wrote down here?

My friends from Marseille also discourage me from visiting. I went anyway. I am loath to say this but my recollection is of a dirty, large city that smelt of urine.

I am aware the old port is being redesigned. Relative to Nice or Paris, Marseille is not for me.

'a dirty, large city that smelt of urine' is a bit of an exaggeration. The Panier district and other areas near the old port have become very gentrified in recent years. Around Rue Paradis, Rue du Rome the city is very chic. Marseille is a lot less pretentious, a lot grittier than Paris. Nice is full of wealthy and nouveaux riche. Personally, I prefer Marseille, a much more interesting and dynamic city with thousands of years of history than Nice which is nothing more than a somewhat upscale beach resort.

I most definitely prefer Marseille to Nice.

I've never been to Marseille. And tmrw I think I will have to walk from Place Castellane to the area around Blancarde metro station at about 0100 - carrying a laptop!

Is this a dodgy part of town? Should I ensure I take a taxi instead?

Thanks

People (including miscreants) will still be busy celebrating the victory of France over Germany. ;-)

It is still central Marseille and Boulevard Baille is a main thoroughfare. It wouldn't bother me, but of course I would stay on my guard at all times, the same as in Paris at 1 a.m.

I will refresh my personal knowledge of Marseille next week when I spend a few days there.

OK thanks, I was mainly checking this is not a "dangerous" part of the city

tommo68, thank you so much for this detailed and honest post. No, not every city is equally dangerous. Yes, there are some cities that are simply worse than others. I don't know why people represent otherwise. As a petite, solo female traveler with children to return home to, I always seek advice about the safety of my potential travel destinations. Advice from people who actually live there, and that includes feedback from other people who actually live there, is absolutely invaluable. Based on such advice, I safely visited Rio de Janeiro by myself (a few years ago) but decided to pass, for example, on Naples (this year). I am still up in the air on Marseilles, but this has given me a lot to work with. Thank you!

Rio is 10 times more dangerous than Marseille or Naples.

Depends on where you go. I researched neighborhoods very carefully and had no problems and never felt unsafe. And again, this was during a period of relative 'detante' in Rio re: police and gang relations.

Your research told you Naples was dangerous?

Why does Rick Steves like it so much?

No idea; I don't follow Rick Steves. Naples residents told me it was dangerous, and described specific crimes they had witnessed, so I took their word for it.

And what crimes were those?
Murder, kidnapping, arson?
Or just the same petty crimes that happen a thousand times a day in any metropolis?

I don't follow Rick Steves

But you're surely aware of him and what he does: offers N. American first-timers "Europe with training wheels."
He wouldn't send first-timers into a lion's den.

btw, I have an American friend who, with her sister and her sister's friend (all women in their late 40's or older), used Naples as a base for 2 weeks last summer. No issues. I'm pretty sure that's the norm.

There are plenty of reasons not to visit Naples, if that's what you're looking for. Fear of crime isn't one of them.

You are certainly entitled to your opinion and your anecdotal examples. I am not interested in continuing this conversation because your intent seems to be just to troll. Perhaps someone else will take you up on that offer. Best wishes.

You are certainly entitled to your opinion and your anecdotal examples

Ditto!

A sometimes useful guide:
http://www.city-safe.com/europe/france/marseilles/
It was updated autumn of last year so reflects the concerns about terrorism. I think that concern could be
applicable to any largish city in Europe.
There's also the wikitravel on the city:
http://wikitravel.org/en/Marseille
"Stay safe[edit]

In recent years muggings and pickpockets have dramatically decreased in the city center, however, avoid carrying valuables and watch your surroundings. Most of the northern neighborhoods (quartiers nord), except L'Estaque and Château-Gombert, might be risky and should be avoided by tourists and there is no logical reason for going there.
The area around Boulevard Michelet teems with prostitutes and should be avoided on soccer nights as you can meet potentially angry and drunk Olympique de Marseille hooligans.
When driving a car make sure the doors are locked. There have been occurrences of motorcyclists opening the doors of cars and quickly snatching bags and valuables from the seats.
Overall the city is fairly safe, as is Paris, so there is no need for paranoia! "
A long time forum member has posted on Marseille before, here's a thread from last year about the city:
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/get-stuffed/topics/reasonably-priced-restaurants-particularly-bouilliabase-in-Marseille
Here's a post from 2016 from another Any Port in a Storm forum member when they visited Marseille (great photos!) http://anyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/7807/marseille-mistral

Hello there,
I had a German woman staying with me via wimdu in October. She reported feeling intimidated around the Noailles market area. Harrassment of single women seems to be a problem across France from what women have said to me, so Marseille is not unique in this respect.
Otherwise, the same woman greatly enjoyed her time in the city and didn't have any problems, exploring the city by herself and venturing out to the Calanques national park.
I'd encourage you to come here, it's a friendly city, but it has a certain rebelliousness to it. I have a friend who had a bag snatched in Geneva, of all places, while he stopped to look at a map. Another acquaintance of mine here in Marseille had her smartphone pickpocketed on one of the escalators in the metro so I think in any city in Europe now you need to keep your valuables in contact with you at all times, be aware of your surroundings and who is nest to you and avoid being distracted by for example listening to music on the go.
Much of Marseille is fairly bourgeois and the tide of gentrification is gathering pace so I'd advise visiting before it becomes just like everywhere else.

Hi sfgirl42 and tommo68, thanks for your great posts. sfgirl42, I will check out all those links and tommo68, thank you for the feedback from the German woman who recently stayed with you. It's funny -- I actually like a certain rebelliousness to a city. I live an hour outside of New York, and I remember loving Times Square back when it was gritty, colorful and edgy. Now it has been Disney-fied and is clean, safe and entirely lacking in character. So I appreciate what you mean. I am constantly trying to balance safety against other desirable qualities like diversity and uniqueness.

On this particular trip to France, I will be with a wonderful older friend who is not in great physical condition and not terribly street-smart. My concern is more over her; that she, specifically, might make an easy target. I will read both of your posts in more detail and continue to gather information. I think we can probably figure out a way to visit Marseilles without having a problem. Merci again!

Thanks to John Steed and others who have the courage to tell it like it is. I love Marseilles but forewarned is forearmed. Nothing he's reported deters me in the least of revisiting one of my favorite French cities, especially now that I know more about how to be particularly aware.

How are things in St. Giniez, where I'll be staying next trip? Merci encore!

"Tell it like it is" ?

I don't think that the experience of one person applies to everyone.

I would think that everyone knows already that caution should be applied in any big city. I live in "safe" Paris and I am fully aware of possible dangers.

Funny, the only place I've EVER been accosted in Europe, in over 45 years of travel, is Paris, in the subway by a young Arab couple two Mays ago. Unfortunately for them, I fought them both off w/o any difficulty and left them both yelling at and blaming each other for having botched the attempted theft, to my fellow passengers' great delight. Yes, "tell it like it is" is always preferable to "saying the thing which is not."

Appearing to be rich is a magnet for thieves anywhere in the world, but it's advisable to realise that wealth is relative.
I've lived in Marseille for more than five years. I grew up in London, which is where I got the standard street-smarts that keep me out of trouble here. You do need to take normal city precautions and stay out of known no-go zones, but it is a beautiful city and not to be avoided on account of its reputation.

I have been to Marseille five times in the last three years and love it. Before I stayed there I'd been led to believe it was the crime capital of France, but I'm now convinced that is a rumour put about by the Parisian tourist board!

Like any big(gish) city, it has its rough areas, but I can't say I felt any more vulnerable in them than I have done in the equivalent areas of any major city. I went to Bougainville during the day, mainly to check it out. It was very run down with the usual attributes of such an area, but I didn't find it particularly threatening. I wouldn't recommend visiting the area simply because it's pretty redundant of saving graces, rather than any obvious dangers.

I have stayed mainly around Vieux Port and Le Panier which have become very gentrified and feel very comfortable. I've noticed nothing particularly alarming happening in the streets around there, but would acknowledge that I rarely stay out much after 10pm, so perhaps I've witnessed it at its best! Any time I've stayed out later than that, it has always been around Place de Lenche, which has always seemed most genteel. The local boulangerie both open way past 10pm and I can't imagine they'd do that if the area was dangerous. I did have my phone pickpocketed at Vieux Port metro, but that was my own stupid fault and could have happened in any major city centre.

I wouldn't presume to correct people who've actually lived in Marseille for any length of time, but far from being crime ridden, I've been surprised how relatively crime free the beaches around Prado are. People routinely leave their possessions unattended, whilst they swim or go for a walk, but I've not heard a single story about anybody having anything stolen. The staff in the local Casino supermarket and local resident Laurent, who visits Plage David daily, from April to September, confirmed there was little incidence of reported crime in the area. Even the flea market which stretches for about a kilometre at weekends, is relatively scam free.

Marseille is a strange city though, for example whilst it doesn't seem to actively encourage tourists to visit, it treats the ones who find their way there better than any other city I've visited. In the final analysis, it is probably the most 'user-friendly' city I've ever visited, as can be exemplified by its 7 day travel pass, which entitles the traveller to unlimited journeys on metro, tram, bus and certain rail routes, as well as amazing bonuses such as the coach to Cassis and the boat to Estaque. It costs just €13.00, which is less than it costs for an all zone travel card in London, valid for just a single day.

In all five previous visits to Marseille, the only 'trouble' I've witnessed, was a rather violent domestic which spilled onto the street in La Blancarde, again, not really a tourist destination. Despite the warnings of others, I find Marseille to be far less threatening than London, Paris, Rome or any other big cities I know. Yes it is down at heel in many areas, but in an attractively Bohemian way. It has swanky areas, but they don't feel exclusive, in the literal sense. Overall, Marseille has a vibrancy missing in the corporate theme parks that London, Paris and Milan have become and I'll be back there in September.

In terms of "crime capital of France," I am pretty sure that it is the murder capital of France but only if you are a drug dealer in the northern fringe of the city where even I have never been.

Down along the seafront and the Vieux Port, I have never seen the slightest problem.

Excellent post, flip_city. My thoughts exactly about Marseille, where I spent a very enjoyable week in Sta. Giniez last month. One of the highlights: a great meal at Lido Saigon, a French-Vietnamese restaurant just west of Plage David. As the French couple next to us remarked, "This IS the best Vietnamese restaurant in Marseilles!" Definitely going back for more!

Frankly, sounds like my kind of town.

I'm not sure that Chicago is the Marseille of the US.
But Marseille might be the Chicago of France.

Last time I was in Marseille I had quite a good (and cheap) meal at Le Moyen Orient, a Syrian restaurant just off the Vieux Port. Not a tourist in sight because they are all 50 metres away on the waterfront.

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