Madagascar - Manakara to Tulear (Southern Circuit) by motorbike!

Hi guys,

my girlfriend and me are going to drive the southern circuit of Madagascar during the last two weeks of this month (October) by motorbike (125cc). We are both working in Madagascar, speak fluently French and a bit Malagasy. We drove already about 1000km both on highways and dirt roads around the country.

For our circuit of the southern part of the country I have 5 specific questions concerning the roads and connections. I would very much appreciate if someone who experienced parts of the circuit, heard or read about, could give some advises on the conditions of road and possible circumstances/problems (e.g. weather, bandits etc.)

(1) After having passed already Fianarantsoa, Manakara, Farafangana and Vangaindrano we would like to go up to Fort Dauphin/Taolagnaro on Route Nationale 12 from VAGAINDRANO to FORT DAUPHIN. This seams to take a lot more time then the rest of RN 12 (from Fianrantsoa to Vangaindrano) as there are around 10 river crossings and a non-asphalted road. Can anyone advise/share experiences about this connection with us? How long does this take? I read in a couple of guide books about 2-3 days for the whole way?

(2) An alternative would be to cross the mountains from VAGAINDRANO to IHOSY on RN 27 via Vondrozo and Ivohibe. There are obviously taxi-brousses running from Vangaindrano up to Vondrozo and from Ivohibe to Ihosy. I read a couple of different opinions about that connection, from impassable to possible with 4x4 and motorbike. Can anyone share experiences about this route with us?

(3) After Fort Dauphin/Taolagnaro we plan to take RN 10 via Ambovombe, Tsihombe, Beloha, Ampanihy and Betioky up to TULEAR. The road seems to be not too bad and well possible by 4x4 and motorbike. Did anyone take this road recently or by 4x4/taxi-brousse or motorbike and can share experiences with us?

(4) There are smaller connections via dirt roads from Tsihombe (RN 10) to Faux-Cap as well as Beloha (RN 10) to Lavanono and Cap Sainte Marie where a couple of smaller bungalow hotels wait for guests. The roads seem to be quite scenic bit worse than RN 10. Did anyone travelled these parts and could give some advises?

(5) South of Tulear is the village of Anakao where we would like to stay for a couple of days. I read that riding by bike from Tulear to Anakao via again a dirt road is possible. Does someone have ideas/advises/experiences on that?

A big big thank you for any advise on these questions. We appreciate much any shared experience as this part of the country is within the least visited.

We are very curious and excited about the circuit.

Regards from Fianarantsoa,

Philipp

Hi Mofo,

thanks a lot for your immediate reply! I also heard about the dahalo/bandit problem around Vondrozo/Ivohibe. I will check in Farafangana - as well well for the overall conditions of the road to Ihosy - all, if we are not able to cross the stretch from Vangaindrano to Fort Dauphin which is our first priority.

Did you hear at the time you travelled about the same bandit problem for the region south of Faranfangana, or is that limited to the area Vondrozo - Ivohibe?

Regards from Fianarantsoa,

Phil

I can answer some of your questions.

I did the RN12 from Manakara to Fort Dauphin in February. The road is brilliant as far as Vangaindrano. At that point it deteriorates, but for a motorbike in October, you should get through easily. There are a lot of ferry crossings but the ferries are in good condition and the RN12 is becoming the road of choice for people from Fort Dauphin heading north to Tana and most people attempt to get from Fort Dauphin to Vangaindrano or even Manakara in one day. We did it in pouring rain and floods in February and it took us four days driving very slowly from Manakara to Fort Dauphin, staying overnight at Vangaindrano, Manantenina and Iabokoho, mainly because we were waiting for hour upon hour for the rivers to go down so we could get on the ferries. Do note, you need to time your ferry crossings so you cross in the day. If you have to cross after 6pm you have to find the ferry driver, get him out of his house, and pay. It is free from 6am to 6pm.

The road from Vangaindrano to Mahatalaky is pretty bad, deep holes, broken bridges, etc, but our problem was water. If it isn't raining heavily you will be just fine.

Fort Dauphin to Tulear, by whichever route you take, is always difficult, always rough, sometimes sandy, very very very rarely impossible. It is a very well traveled route with transport of every kind passing through there all the time. Time your travel so you don't travel at night in the more isolated (Tsihombe to Tulear) parts to avoid bandits.

Have fun...