Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

LP Update Pakistan & Karakoram Highway and Recommendations – Part 2 of 3

Country forums / Indian Subcontinent / Pakistan

Tour operators – Things to consider:
Before coming to Pakistan I got in touch with several tour operators and enquired about their prices for 4x4WD or a Toyota Corolla.
In general prices didn’t differ much between the operators for the “Limited Option”, see below (car, driver, drivers acc. and his food).
In addition you have pay for the gas, the ferry ticket over Lake Attabad (however with the completion of the highway around the lake this is of the past) and the National Park Entry fees (Khunjerab and Deosai Plains are around USD 8 per Foreigner in case you need them.
For Diesel count on Pkrps. 85 / USD 0.85 per litre and about 14l/100km with a Toyota Landcruiser 4x4WD (in general not driven in 4x4WD mode. A Toyota Corolla needs maybe 9l/100km. Prices were stable along the KKH and the Skardu area.

Finally I tested 2 operators:

Vertical Explorers Expeditions Treks & Tours:
Syed (and Mobin) Tel: + 92 (0)345 506 16 34
They have an office in ISB and in Skardu.
Email: vepakistan@gmail.com / vexplorers@gmail.com / Skype ID: vepakistan / Viber ID: +92 31 555 444 34 / WhatsApp ID: +92 345 50 61 634.
Syed outed himself as a real gentleman, albeit a very busy man, he talks in a low voice and answers emails quickly. He is specialised in all kinds of trekking and excursions. When my original place to stay in ISB got cancelled last minute and I arrived 8h late at the airport I went to the city centre by myself and looked for a hotel. After the first couple of hotels were full I called him for help. In less than 10 min he was present and brought me to a nice place. 2 days later I left with a driver in a Toyota Corolla for Gilgit which he organised for me (in 2 days with an overnight stay in Besham). The very experienced driver stopped countless times on my request on the KKH to talk to locals and to take pictures.

Lost Horizon Treks & Tours (+ Guest-House), Jutial (Gilgit)

Address: Sharah-e-Quaid-e-Azam Rd. It is located, near Serena hotel chowk in Jutial, about 3km away from Gilgit.
http://www.losthorizontreks.com / info@losthorizontreks.com
Abdul Bari Rana
From Pakistan: +92 (0)5811-455 017 or (0)5811-457 974 Bari’s Cell +92 (0)346-543 19 53
Abdul Bari: bari@losthorizontreks.com (He has an employee who answers his emails in his name)
Bari is a kind and is relaxed person to be engaged in business or a conversation. He is specialised in Trekking’s and Mountaineering Tours but also organises Jeep Tours to the surrounding areas.
Due to the landslides everywhere I reduced the original number of days.
I was lucky to have once more a patient and very skilful driver who stopped many times when I asked him to.

and went on an informative dinner in Skardu with:
Snowland Treks and Tours:
Kamal Hussain, Clifton Bridge Road, Skardu (16100) Pakistan
Tel: (+92) 333 510 50 22 or 346 518 12 83
Email: info@snowland.com.pk / snowlandtours@gmail.com / www.snowland.com.pk / Skype: snowlandtours
Kamal is an energetic person. The only reason why I didn’t try his services was that I have decided to test & try the other two operators, mentioned above. His large Toyota Landcruiser seems to be in good shape.

Besides: A Toyota Corolla could go (under normal road conditions) to most places and everywhere on the KKH but not its side valleys (like Shimshal or Chapursan etc.). It can also go: Gilgit – Skardu – Shigar – Skardu but for Skardu - Deosai Plains, 4’000masl – Astor – Gilgit – it is not recommended albeit locals do so.
However Tour operators in the mountains generally have only 4x4WD’s with a Toyota Landcruiser as the most used vehicle. Bear in mind that Toyota Landcruiser come in different lengths and a short one leaves only enough space for 1 – max 2 passengers is slower and bumpier on the road than a larger model.

All of the above mentioned tour operators help you with getting a LOI via Email in case you need one.

All tour operators sticked to their word, given by email.

General advise:
There are normally 2 options if you rent a 4x4WD for a couple of days:
The “All-Inclusive Option” (including gas and other payments) and the “Limited Option” (car, driver, driver’s food and accommodation only – no gas, sometimes limited help in finding out about road conditions and landslides). Tour operators in general prefer the All-Inclusive Option but if you have to watch your budget, you are better off with the Limited Option.

Limited Option:
Driver: Make sure who pays for the driver’s food and accommodation. (In general the car owner). USD 5 tip per day is a recommended amount, payable at the end.
Both my drivers drove the car slowly and with great caution. They were experienced drivers, anticipating the unknown at every curve. Driving in a private car with a skilled driver is much safer than with public transport and gives you the opportunity to stop wherever you want to make pictures.
Both drivers spoke only very basic English and there were sometimes misunderstandings. It is essential that you speak slowly and clearly and make sure the driver understands what you are saying. Keep the number of the car owner present and call if there are any problems. Driver’s always have a cell-phone.

Car: I would suggest that the car owner mails you a picture of the car you are about to hire (including its tyres). Before engaging in a trip, check car tyres and breaks.

Gas: The price remained rather constant in the mountains and there was always sufficient diesel in our car. Count on 9l/100kmk for a Toyota Corolla and 14l/100km for a Toyota 4x4WD Landcruiser.
Discuss what happens, if your car gets blocked or many options regarding your itinerary are blocked by landslides further away.
How high is the standing cost per day if the car is not moved (there are differences between tour operators and I have in mind between zero and approx. Pkrps. 2’500 / USD 25.
What happens if you return and there is still a large amount of petrol in the car.
The easiest way to avoid this is if the car is fuelled up before you start and you do the same on return. However car owners don’t like this idea as they have to fork out money before you start the trip.
What are the conditions if you decide to shorten (or lengthen) the trip (e.g. due to landslides/ health issues or the beauty of a place)?
Think also if and how much you are willing to pay upfront from your home country or in person before you start the trip. (I paid the 2 days trip to Gilgit upfront on the departure date and above 50% (as far as I remember) of the estimated total amount in Hunza on the evening before leaving. My general rule would be 50%.)

When choosing an operator it is important to know the home base of the car as there are often charges to return the car to its home base at the end of your trip.

Let yourself confirm all conditions you both agreed upon from the operator via e-mail and print it out – just to be on the safe side.

Thanks for sharing your first hand experience with us on the forum. Appreciated.

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We have regularly used Vertical Explorers Tours for the last number of years, after having originally gone to Pakistan for K2 trekking as a package tour.They were fantastic and reasonably priced. Their guides were excellent and every detail was done to our satisfaction.
As hemis says above, there are many many guides and tour operators around, you just have to try to get in touch with a few, compare their prices, see what their service is like, and check that their guides are licensed and qualified etc. Also make sure that the agency is licensed by the ministry of tourism.

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