Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Jerusalem to Bethlehem complications

Country forums / Middle East / Israel

Just Yesterday my cousin (an Israeli citizen) and I attempted to drive into Bethlehem only to learn that Israelis are not allowed, and that people who appear to be jewish (last names, family in israel ect.) will be refused entry. This came directly from two IDF soldiers. My last name is Israeli although it could potentially pass for italian with some mispronunciation. What is the least complicated, and least suspicious (seeing as how I'll be telling a few lies) way to cross into Bethlehem from Jerusalem? Also if anyone has seen the art on the separation wall (specifically Banksy) on the Bethlehem side any advice on how to check that out would be great. Any experience here would be appreciated.

Just go on the bus, which drives right through the checkpoint. Arab bus 21 from East Jerusalem. Your problems will start when you try to cross back the other way, but if you're desperate to see Bethlehem and not worried about getting into trouble (and remember it's against the law for Israelis to go) then this is (I think) your only solution. This bus goes through the tunnels checkpoint, which is a lot easier than the main checkpoint into Bethlehem. I think it's also used by settlers, which might make your journey easier.

Incidentally, whilst Israelis aren't allowed in, foreign nationals (who do not hold an Israeli passport) of any ethnic/religious background are permitted to cross. Just being Jewish has nothing to do with it.

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I've gone in twice through the 300 checkpoint (Rachel's Tomb). Just took a bus from near Damascus Gate, and no problems going. They just asked me to raise my passport, didnt even check it - And it was at much tenser times than now, though it was around Christmas, when securiyt is more lax because of heavy pilgrim volume...
Good Luck

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take a shared minivan from outside damascus gate of the old city in east jerusalem. it goes direct to Bethlehem. i have heard israeli citizens are not allowed in the west bank. regarding jewish names, do not know. but you could say you are a Christian convert, and hence, are a pilgrim and want to visit the birthplace of Jesus. also may depend which IDF soldier is manning the checkpoint at any given time. as an example, when i traveled in the west bank, some IDF soldiers did not care i did not have an Israel stamp in my passport, whereas others wanted to kick me off the bus and really fought with me. depends on the luck of the draw. but even if you have a jewish surname, if you say you are a Christian pilgrim, might be more chance of getting thru. but i don't think your cousin can get thru w/ an israeli passport.
- julie

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does your cousin have another passport, or just israeli? if he has another you could enter on that (keeping in mind that it's illegal). the soldiers gave you incorrect information--jews are definitely allowed to enter, as long as they are not israeli.

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