How much time do i need for this transumatran trip?

Hi Guys,

For this year, no more islands in the east, i decided to go back to Sumatra which i had last visited almost 8 years ago (MOstly Banda Aceh, Medan and Pulau Weh)

I will most likely be around bangkok or penang before reaching Sumatra and have to end up in Singapore for a few days before back home.

As a first shot of an itinerary i was thinking of flying from Penang to Banda Aceh then heading southwards to Takengon, over to Toba through Kutacane, Ketambe and Berastagi.
After a few days i'll have to go to Medan to catch a flight towards Padang and stopping by in nearby Maninjau, bukittinggi and harau before flying out to Singapore from either Padang or Pekanbaru:

I am interested in low scale hiking, beautiful landscapes, coulourful markets, great food, cultural experiences and craft shopping (antiques and well done contemporary, mostly jewels and textiles), i don't fancy overtouristed places and don't mind roughing a bit

I will mostly likely be travelling somewhere between early october to Mid November (Bangkok/Penang/Sumatra/singapore).

I already spotted the three lakes to stop by: Tawar, Toba and Maninjau
An experience in Leuser NP somewhere on the road with tropical streams, day hikes, wildlife spotting, waterfalls...
Harau valley and Padang food (i looooove rendang)

-I need to know how much time is enough to do this itinerary? I am planning on not staying more than the 30 days free visa! This is my real concern!

-How best should i work out the Takengon to Lake Toba leg with a stop for Leuser NP to get the best of it? wildlife spotting, rivers, landscapes maybe a hot water source, waterfalls...

-If i decide to throw in a side trip to the Banyak islands, will i have to extend the 30 days free visa? If i can fit them in in 30 days, how easy is to catch the flight to Singkil or maybe a better not overly time consuming overland solution in between the above mentionned places?

-I had been searching for flighst to Singapore from Padang to get out of the country but nothing, the closest i could find is from Pekanbaru!
So the solution is to travel from Harau valley/Payakumbuh (my last step in West Sumatra to avoid backtracking to Padang) straight to pekanbaru airport to catch a Singapore bound flight. I don't know how to manage this leg!! Any insights?
-How does this compare to backtracking to Padang airport and fliying to Batam then boating out to Singapore budget, confort and time wise?

-I have a good list of shops/markets to visit in West Sumatra (mostly Butkittinggi) to shop around for souvenirs, crafts, antiques....Anymore good places ? Any info on similar places in the Batak country(Berastagi, Toba) or Medan? Also in Banda Aceh or takengon?

-I had visited Banda Aceh, Weh and Medan In december and did not find that the rainy season was unbearable or prevented me to go by my daily activities (some huuge powerful storms on Weh, which i confess , i had enjoyed greatly on my roofed terrace facing rubiah island!!), So i guess October and November should be fine ?

-Lastly i would be grateful of any other places that i had not mentionned on this itinerary that are interesting and worth a stop

Thank you very much for your help again, i am very excited to break the very archipelagic experience i had in Indonesia for the last visits and indulge in more "continental" experience in Sumatra

Cheers

takengon - kedah - berastagi - tuktuk via Tele Hill - Parapat - Medan - Padang

padang fly to batam ferry to Singapore. Pekanbaru much less pleasant. or padang - KL - sin

maninjau not so nice really (best from above), try Danau Singkarak

To Singkil easiest from Toba (Tuktuk - Tele - Sidikalang - Singkil).

@thelawnet
Thank you for your reply
I am bookmarking Kedah which seems to be very interesting for a couple days to explore Leuser NP

Why do you not recommend Maninjau? It seems very photogenic from the pictures! I'll give Singarak a second thought.

"Tele Hill" & "Tele" i can not seem to find them on a map!!

Stop in Kedah or Ketambe to enjoy Gunung Leuser park. Kedah's a nice, quiet spot, with an interesting owner in charge of the guesthouse. There's a nice weekly market nearby (no souvenirs for sale of course!).

I think your 30 days is pushing it. I'd give yourself 3 weeks for Banda Aceh-Medan. You could do it faster by rushing a bit, but it's not a region to rush through, if you ask me. It's easy to get a 60-day visa for Indonesia in Penang. You might want to look into that as an alternative.

Getting from Harau to Pekanbaru should be straightforward. Someone on here did it recently. Either ask your guesthouse to help, or go to the main Pekanbaru road and wait for something to come along.

@thelawnet
OK got TELE Hill where it is, basically a view point over lake toba, interesting . thanx

@Giora
Thanx for your input, unfortunately i am not able to stay more than 30 days this time for different reasons. So if i have no choice i'll drop North Sumatra and focus on Toba + West Sumatra and possibly 5 or 6 days in the banyak to chill out.

I am reading lots on info on how to access the Banyak and got the ipression that the archipelago was accessible from Singkil which would be perfect step after Toba and Sibolga (?) which would be great to reach padang, saves times and money and no backtracking to Medan!

Any recent info on Banyak to Sibolga transportation?
Similarly from Sibolga to Padang ? Frequencies, duration and cost?

Harau to Pekanbaru seems good then, will just make sure to get to PB a day before my flight to SPORE is due to leave.

Thanx again

I've never been to the Banyak Islands, or Sibolga.

I wouldn't drop the northern bit of Sumatra! It's the highlight of your route, in my opinion. Banda Aceh to Lake Toba, through the highlands, is gorgeous, and Gunung Leuser National Park is fascinating. I would drop something else if I was you.

@Giora
Thanx again, helpful to get a hint on which direction to go as Sumatra keeps unfolding never ending possibilities.

I will gladly drop Banyaks ( ihad my fix of tropical islands last time and planning of heading back to malukku next year), i won't have to drag my snorkeling gear around and travel lighter. The archipelago does not seem to have any outstanding features rather than perfect coconut fringed beaches....even snorkeling seems to be low

of all the places i mentionned on OP, what would be the least interesting part one may drop without regrets?

I was reading again on NP options and then KERINCI just popped out of the blue and i am right now pondering wether i could just stick to one end ....either Leuseur and Toba (with Takengon as a side trip) or West Sumatra with a foray into kerinci for the whole stay...take it easy....stay longer in relaxed places ...ect...?

I am definetely not considering dropping West Sumatra or at least the area around Bukittinggi which i was intending to visit for ages....Just an inconsiderate attraction!!

thanx again

I don't think much of Lake Toba - the main tourist base there (Tuk-Tuk) is very, very touristy. There are places much more to my taste elsewhere around the lake, that are much less touristy, and the lake is unmistakably beautiful, but if your main interest is in hanging out and doing low-key activities, you might be happy enough at Lake Maninjau. It sees fairly few tourists these days, has some lovely lakeside guesthouses, and offers a very attractive setting and some good day-hikes.

I've never been to the Harau Valley.

There's lots around Bukittinggi. Some nice volcanoes in the region as well. Kerinci is beautiful, and has Indonesia's highest volcano, as well as Gunung Tujuh (which is beautiful, and also has a lovely lake; you can camp alongside the lake there in perfect peace, if you're lucky - ie. no large Indonesian hiking groups around). You're much less likely to see wildlife around Kerinci than in Gunung Leuser though. And notably, there are no orangutans down there. You might get lucky and see gibbons, though personally I've only seen them in Gunung Leuser.

If you're happy flying, you might consider Banda Aceh-Medan in two weeks through the highlands, flying to Padang, heading to Kerinci for a few days, and then spending the rest of your time around Bukittinggi/Maninjau. That would work. If you want to take it fairly slowly, you'll want to pick and choose where you visit, and perhaps cut out a few places. But that would be possible.

@Giora
Thanx again for your kind help.

Two weeks is plenty for Banda Aceh to Medan via the central highlands and Alas valley. Takengon to Blangkejeren takes about 4-5 hours, Blangkejeren to Kedah about half an hour, Blangkejeren to Ketambe about 2-3 hours. Blangkejeren is the capital of Gayo Lues region - my favourite place in the world - and could be a good base for exploring the region.

And if you are in Ketambe on November 13, there will be a big party (pesta sunat) there with kids in traditional costume, horse riding and a massive feast.

@trjp1972

Thanx for your input. 15 days would be about perfect for the north, but does this include Toba or am i too optimistic?!

I ll sure have a look at what bangkejeren has to offer but i d'ont think i will be still around by 13th November...off to Western Sumatra

cheers

What do you want to do at Toba? If you just want to see the lake, you could travel to its north coast (to see Sipisopiso waterfall, for example) as a day-trip from Berastagi.

There's probably not that much info on Blangkejeren as the vast majority of tourists who pass through simply change buses at the terminal. That's a shame. There are at least five hotels, hundreds of places to eat and a great market. It's small enough to walk around without getting too lost and it's easy to find public transport to some interesting places, such as Kuta Panjang (for Kedah). As you'll be there in the wet season you could even do some rafting through Gayo Lues along the Tripa river. That would be an excellent way to get to some inaccessible places. (I tried to arrange such a trip the last time I was there but the river was too low and my friend from Ketambe (who owns the boat) wasn't very enthusiastic about it.) Maybe in November when I will be there again...

@trjp1972
Yes Toba mostly to get to see the lake maybe one or two traditionnal houses, stay a couple nights on samosir....BUT i am under the impression that the more experienced travelers in Sumatra seem to advise against spending too much time on the two major lakes (Toba and Maninjau) as it seems they are too touristy or lost their charm...even skipping them!?
Actually your idea about a day trip from Berastagi to Sipiso piso waterfall and soak in the view seems legit...i am just afraid i ll loose on something really interesting by avoiding Samosir altogether....it will also bring me closer to medan to fly to Padang...more days for other more interesting places!

I hadnt thought about rafting...excellent idea! Thanx again

I visited Samosir/Lake Toba back in 1992 and haven't felt the urge to return since. Back then it was very busy with hundreds of tourists staying there. These days I've heard it described as a party town without a party. I can't remember if the traditional houses I saw were original or modern reproductions, but the music/dance presentation was very touristy. There are a few original traditional houses around Beratagi (but they are Karo, not Batak).

Have you seen the film The Act of Killing? There are some scenes filmed at the waterfall on the north coast of lake Toba. It's a great film, but the subtitles aren't always that accurate!

@trjp1972
OK, Northern Coast seems to fit the bill, by the time i will get to Toba, i would have already visited the lake near takengon and possibly a couple more near Bukittinggi including Mnainjau....some choices to make!

Thanx again, very helpful

Tuk-Tuk, on Samosir, is very, very touristy. It's popular with Indonesian tourists as well as foreign tourists, and so has various irritations catering to them (like speedboats on the lake). Tuk-Tuk is the only place that I have been in Sumatra which I didn't like because it was too touristy.

If you really want to go to Samosir, there are other places to stay as well, away from Tuk-Tuk. Apparently there are some nice traditional villages around as well. But they will take more time and effort to get to.

Maninjau is not touristy at all! It was touristy some 20-30 years ago. The tourist numbers have dried up significantly since then. It sees tourists, and there are a few guesthouses around to cater to them. But there's little tourist development around the lake, absolutely no tourist hassle, and not even many tourists, at least when I was there. Very different from Toba, and in particular, Tuk-Tuk.

@Giora

Thanx for this comparison eassya, sure it will hel divide time between to the tow lakes

The toba stage is clearer now, it was indeed the stage which seemed most difficult to tackle coming from the north and avoiding the crowd... Got some nice helpful tips

One last question for anyone keen or in the know:
Where would be the nicest place to get a "pemandian mata air panas" or a hot springs experience in between North Sumatra, Aceh, toba and Minagkabau country; clean, natural setting, not too much concrete, not a pain in the A** to reach......would love to hear any first hand experience.

Cheers

There's an absolutely fabulous hot spring close to Ketambe. It's part of a river, in a pristine setting surrounded by jungle. Absolutely gorgeous. The plantations are coming closer and closer though, but the last time I was there, it was still lovely.

You'll likely to need a guide to find the place, though I have personally always managed without.

There are quite a few hot springs to choose from but the one on the Gurah river near Ketambe is the best. If you do a three-day trek from Ketambe you'll spend the second night there. Alternatively there's one about a 30 minute motorcycle ride north of there at Ai Panas, or one about halfway between Ketambe and Kutacane. Both of those are much eaiser to reach, but more concretey.

There's no need to do a three-day trek to get to the hot spring near Ketambe: it's very easily reached as a day-trip from Ketambe. It's roughly an hour and a half to two hour hike from Ketambe.

True, but most people go there as part of a three day trek.

@Giora
Is it easy enough to find directions by oneself to these hotsprings from any given ketambe guesthouse...and without a guide ? thanx

@trjp1972
That is more hotsprings than i could afford to visit...I ll ahve to choose...pictures of these forest hotsprings seem absolutely amazing. thanx

The hot springs are in the middle of the forest. You follow some narrow forest paths up and down until you come to the river, you then wade across the river, and follow the obvious path on the other side upstream. No-one - not even me - could give you reasonable directions. I'd be saying things like "follow this narrow path roughly straight until you come to a big tree where there are a couple of different trails; go downhill and follow the narrow trail vaguely left and then right, and then cut through the bushes and up a slope until you come to a really big tree, and then go downhill and whenever you have an option of more than one trail take the one which looks a little bit more used than the other one."

Do you understand what I'm saying? Would you trust those sorts of directions if you were in the middle of the forest?

Two things: first, the forest area around Ketambe isn't that big, and IF (it's a big if!!!!) you have good orientation skills for getting yourself around a jungle without getting lost, you'll probably figure it out pretty well after a day or two of wandering around. It would be very easy to get lost though, if you didn't know what you were doing.

Secondly: if at any point during your wanderings you come across the main overnight camp, which is right next to the river and obvious, then you have as good as found the hot springs: from the camp, cross the river, follow the only trail upstream on the other side for about 45 minutes, and you will reach the hot springs. Be careful at the hot springs, there are no signs, obviously, and some of the water is at piping hot temperatures.

If you want to visit the hot springs without a guide, I would give yourself at least two days to figure out the forest, and I would not attempt it at all unless you know how to wander narrow trails in a tropical jungle without getting lost.

Also note that some of the guides don't like tourists who don't have guides, and might not be the friendliest to you inside the forest.

The hotsprings are easy to find. The fastest route is to walk along the road to Puncak Gurah (a small collection of huts just past the entrance to Gurah Villa). From there enter the jungle and descend to the camping ground. Cross the Gurah river and follow the path upstream for an hour or so. You'll smell it once you get close enough. Go with a friend, or hire a guide (you'll certainly see more wildlife if you go with a guide).

I'm not sure what you mean by "Puncak Gurah". Do you mean the little trail that enters the forest next to the single building which looks like an abandoned mosque?

At any rate, I know a few ways of getting to the camping ground, but they all involve lengthy climbs (mostly in the forest) before descending down to the camping ground.

I think you're being a bit blase with your description though. Perhaps you've forgotten what it's like to be in the jungle there when you're not familiar with it? Either that or you know an easy route to the hot springs that I'm not aware of, despite having been there multiple times.

Also take great care a you walk past the hotpring. It' steamy, smelly and the rock are slippery. If you fall in you'll scald yourself very badly and will have to be evacuated by a whole team of locals. Thankfully it doesn't happen very often.

No. The path you're talking about is called Jalan Masjid. Puncak Gurah is a lot further along the road. It's where a lot of people finish their treks. It's the fastest and most direct route to the camping ground. It's the route all the porters use while the guides are taking their guests round and round in circles!

All right, that's interesting. I've never discovered that trail before. The ways I know to get to the campsite are all rather complicated.

I dont mind taking a guide for say half a day to get to these hotsprings and if it comes with the additionnal prospect of spotting jungle critters then it is all good and gets some cash into local economy (or to buy kreteks and sopi). What would that cost approx?

Is Pak Mus still the most recommended place to stay ?

Thanx

The fastest way through the jungle if you start at the abandoned mosque (not at all recommended!) is to walk up the river for a bit, scale the almost vertical cliff on the left the follow the ridge to the top of the hill. From there descend to your left until you see a path to the right, take two right turns and follow the path down to the camping ground.

I'd always recommend hiring a guide for your first trip in the jungle at Ketambe, but if you absolutely must go without one go with a friend and take a lot more water than you think you'll need.

The cost will depend on your negotiating skills. Check out all of the guesthouses and pick one you like.

"Actually your idea about a day trip from Berastagi to Sipiso piso waterfall and soak in the view seems legit"

I didn't like it at all. So much garbage.

@thelawnet

I guess it will be hard to beat the spotless waterfall i saw last December in Batanta island, but the sheer size of this waterfall should be worth the effort at least from the distance of the view point!

The fastest way through the jungle if you start at the abandoned mosque (not at all recommended!) is to walk up the river for a bit, scale the almost vertical cliff on the left then follow the ridge to the top of the hill. From there descend to your left until you see a path to the right, take two right turns and follow the path down to the camping ground.

In case anyone reading is thinking of doing this (please don't) what I meant to say was follow the stream until it turns left, then climb the cliff on the right, before following the ridge to the top of the hill.

I reiterate my previous advice about hiring a guide.

Pak Mus is probably still your best bet; for lodgings as well as local information; last time I was in the area I decided on staying at 1000 Hills which is Belgium backed/owned. In house guides etc.
Sipiso Piso; after 8 years of visiting Samosir area I decided on a visit to this waterfall, I'd stayed away due to the many stories of garbage. I was pleasantly surprised to see a lack of garbage in this area..... I visited only 2 weeks ago.

Banyaks; probably a good idea deciding against these islands... my 24 day stay 2 months ago was great for myself and girlfriend; but we'd been travelling for 4 months and enjoyed the seclusion and ease of beach life.

Harau Valley should definitely be reserved; the main accommodation, Abdi Homestay, is quite popular.

Kerinci; I have to say compared to GLNP and surrounding areas, this area is fantastic.
Kersik Tua offers fantastic opportunities of not only Mt Kerinci but surrounding areas for easy hikes... farther down is the beautiful town of Sungai Penuh; the people are friendly with very little tourists getting that far down. I was there for 3 weeks 2012 and had the best time doing day trips to waterfalls; small beautiful coloured lakes and viewpoints (in particular the viewpoint that shows Kerinci lake at one end of the valley and Kerinci mountain at the other end).
3 weeks and I saw 2 other foreign tourists.
I passed by last year while motorbiking and stayed only one night; It just hadn't changed.
Ive motorbike all over Sumatra during the past years and I promise Kerinci area is worth the extra 7 hour travel ride from Padang with Sungai Penuh being but a quick hop on a bemo.

Hopefully they have fixed the garbage problem although it could be because it's Ramadan and no local tourists. Lebaran starts tomorrow and will bring mountains of garbage.... Will try to make a further recon visit in the next month or so.

@dc1

Thanx for the heads ups, very helpful. Unfortunately (or fortunately) one has to make choices.
I am already looking forward to go to banda Aceh and takengon and Leuser is just on my way further south to reach Toba so, i guess i'll keep promising and exciting kerinci for a next visit
good to hear about Sipisopiso cleanliness, i am deciding to base myself for a couple days in tongging to do low scal day hikes around the waterfall and lake's shore before samosir. I think the viewpoint from high above on the waterfall is worth it alone!

I diched Banyak altogether, mostly for lack of time. also i had enough secluded islands/beach experience so far in indonesia and want to keep this journey more "continental".

I was tempted to hop to Nias for 5 or 6 days as a convenient stopover between Medan and Padang, the island being amazingly connected with both cities with flights, but again i need to work it out tight. i will see on the ground how i manage my time.
I will make sure to phone or sms Abdi a couple weeks before when i know exactely my exact days around Harau!

BTW had anyone bought vanilla pods before around Sumatra? if yes where exactely or maybe you had seen it somewhere? I tried my luck in Minahassa country last time with zero chance however North Sulawesi being a vanilla producing region!!

I've never seen vanilla growing in Aceh or North Sumatra, but the central highlands of Aceh would be a great place to pick up some cinnamon - it grows wild in the mid-high altitude jungle there and you can often see it for sale in village markets.

From Tongging, walk clockwise around the lake. Small roads with very little traffic, isolated little villages on the lake shore, very friendly people. The counter-clockwise road is bigger, and has much more traffic.

@trjp1972
Thanx for the tips about wild cinnamon, i need to stock up, my Banda islands stash is already depleted
I'll see if locals can point me towards any vanilla as i stroll around Sumatra OR i ll just have to look for it in either Bangkok or Penang!

@Giora
That is exactely what i was planning to do, thanx for confirming :-)

@trjp1972
As you are the one more familiar with the Leuser part i am having yet another question
I have again red tons of reports and the LP and will likely stay longer around Kedah.
It seems to have better wildlife spotting opportunities and good hikes in better "climate setting" being higher than the damp lower forests.
I will stop for a night in Ketambe just to get to the hot springs for half a day. leaving Kedah in the morning arriving by mid day to ketambe, hike to the hotsprings, overnight at Pak Mus and leaving to Berastagi To Toba next morning!

Do you think it is a wiser choice....i need to make a choice and Gayo lues seems just about perfect on all levels!

Even if that 6 days trek to upper Alas river to see the "200 m waterfalls" (?) and Gunung Angkasan is reaaaally tempting i think i would not be able to manage that long, that is almost half of my planned stay in the north!
I guess i would like just to soak in a jungle atmosphere and spotting flying squirrels, orang outans, birdies, listening to the gibbon's calls...ect... that would be perfect if it is achievable from around Kedah immediately or around in a daytrips!

thanx for your help again

thanx
I

That seems a bit too rushed. The hotspring in Ketambe is a full day's hike there and back. Add another night in Ketambe.

The trek to the Alas river waterfall is pretty hardcore, but well worth it, even if it means missing out on Ketambe's hotspring. There are other easier-to-reach hotsprings. But October/November is not the time to climb Angkasan and descend beyond, some other trip maybe... However, it would be great for Kedah and surrounding jungle.

Assuming good weather (Jan-Aug) the Alas river waterfall trek is a 6-7 day minimum trek, including some night trekking. For me it was an 8 day, but I only paid my guides for 5 days as they abandoned me in the middle of the jungle for three days to go hunting (I decided I couldn't follow them as it would be illegal, but in the end they caught nothing except fish).

I will do without it, i am really content and happy with just day hikes around the guest house proper if that is good enough to get to see the wildlife i mentionned above... so no more problems afterwards if i need to spend a second night in Ketambe....

i know you are partial to kedah but could you summarize the pros of ketambe compared to Kedah, i mean what i will be missing if i spend longer in kedah than in ketambe ?

thanx again

Ketambe is lower altitude and therefore more forgiving in bad weather. There are more orangutans (50 vs 15) and a lower chance to see a wider variety of animals and birds, although overall, an equal chance of seeing something. (Do you really care whether you see a flying squirrel, a beautiful squirrel or a giant squirrel?)

This topic has been automatically locked due to inactivity. Email community@lonelyplanet.com if you would like to add to this topic and we'll unlock it for you.