Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

How Long to travel Rio San Juan?

Country forums / Central America / Nicaragua

I am in Nica now and my plan was to fly to the corn Islands next week but the weather forecast for the caribbean coast is very poor at the moment. I am looking for alternative plans and since I am in Granada heading to Ometepe SJDS I am considering a river trip as a replacement. I am unable to find info on how long it would take for a full trip or partial trip up the river. My flight leaves on dec 7th.
Does anyone have any advice on whether this would be a good replacement for the corn Islands. Also highlights in this area would be appreciated. I can always head to the northern highlands for a few days as well. I plan to make a move Sunday or MOnday this week so that would give me a week.

Thank you,

San Carlos is an overnight boat trip from Ometepe (schedules on vianica.com, unter Ometepe), and from there there are speed and slow boats running downstream to Boca de Sabalos (not much there), El Castillo (quaint little town with an impressive Spanish fortress and great history - check vianica.com for details) and all the way down to San Juan del Norte (great little village with huge history - do some research on the Vanderbilt shipping lines during the Gold Rush, Greytown, etc. and you'll be hooked.)
El Castillo is roughly 2 hours, SJDN 6 hours by speed boat and 12 hrs by slow boat from San Carlos. Obviously you can always hire private river transport and do everything at yout own pace.

It goes without saying (so I hope) that you can't compare Corn Island and the river. What is there to do? Other than the historical sites, there's the biggest jungkle reserve in the country in the shape of Indio Maiz reserve, which has a few trails that can be easily done at Bartola (6 km downstream from El Castillo, great lodge to stay and relax, pricy at 50 USD meals included but worth it) and a more difficult access leaving from SJDN. But if the weather is crap on the Corn Islands, it will in all likeliness be worse at SJDN.
Oh, and if you're into fishing, there's quite a few fishing lodges between San Carlos and El Castillo. Never been to either of them, so can't say much. May if you do some research on Montecristo or Sabalos lodge (two names that spring to mind) you'll come up with something.

Do some research on the river here on these pages too, and you'll find some interesting stuff.

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be aware that there are only 3 scheduled trips to san juan del norte per week, so you'll probably have to spend at least one full day in san juan.

weather here this week hasn't been too bad. pretty cloudy but only light drizzle occasionally, perfectly bearable.

highly recommend a visit to the region. if you have the time you could visit the solentename archapeligo as well.

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oh, and bring plenty of cash, there is no atm in the region and both banks in san carlos do not give advances on cards.

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Thanks Everyone, this time I won't make it up the Rio San Juan, I just don't have the time so I have decided to stay on a more tried route but these are great posts I can use for the next time I'm in Nica.

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Read the FAQ around Post 42-44

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