Havana Trip Report April 2007

Here is the trip report from my April Trip to Havana.

Part 1

Arrival and Airport

Arrival was around 5PM in the afternoon and deplanement was smooth. After departing the aircraft, travellers are channeled to the immigration hall where booths across the hall are staffed with immigration officers. Travellers line up at each booth and present the immigration officer with their passport and completed tourist card. The immigration officer was courteous and thoroughly inspected the passport picture and tourist card. After stamping the tourist card (and not the passport), she pushed a button which unlocked an exit door leading to the first Customs inspection area.

The Customs officers operate a metal detector and x-ray machine. Travellers are asked to remove all metal objects including watches, belts, coins etc from their person and to place them into a tray and then into the x-ray machine along with their hand luggage. After this inspection, travellers enter the baggage hall where bags are dispensed at various carousels just like at other airports worldwide.

Each bag is x-rayed by Cuban customs prior to being dispensed onto the carousels and while each carousel was supposed to contain the bags from a specific flight, it appeared that many bags were mixed in and we eventually found our bag at a different carousel than the one originally indicated.

We did not see the exchange counter in the baggage hall so didn't change money prior to leaving that area.

Once our bags arrived, we passed through the "Nothing to Declare" channel where customs officials waved people through unless a chalk mark was placed on your checked bag by the customs officer x-raying it.

Upon exiting the customs hall, one enters the "Arrivals" area of the airport where ground transportation and other services are located.

This is where we found the exchange counter.

Time from deplanement to arrivals area: around 35 minutes.

Part 2

Airport Exchange Counter

The Airport Exchange Counter had quite a long line and as we headed towards that queue, a helpful airline customer service agent told us that there was also an exchange counter upstairs on the departures level. We took the escalators up to the departures level and, sure enough, we were second in line. Within 2 minutes, we had managed to exchange the funds we needed into CUC.

Note: unless this was unusual, there was no need to shop for the best exchange rates as the exchange rates at the airport, hotel and at various locations in central Havana were virtually the same (separated by under 1 cent).

The CADECA agent was helpful, counted out the CUC in front of me and then handed both the CUC and the exchange receipt showing the calculation to me at the end of the process. I counted the CUC at the counter (as I would at any exchange counter anywhere in the world) and confirmed it was both the correct amount and the correct exchange rate.

Note: I changed Canadian cash for CUC at the airport and there was no issue there. They did have a credit card machine to allow Visa and Mastercard holders to obtain cash from their credit cards.

Transport from Airport to Havana

Transport was pre-arranged and pre-paid so it was hassle free. The driver waited for us with a sign and took us on the road to Havana. He pointed out various sites and took the time to explain the geography of the city to us. He was very friendly and assisted us with the baggage. Upon arrival at the hotel, we tipped him CUC3.

Travel time was around 25 minutes.

Hotel Nacional de Cuba

This is a grand old hotel and while the furnishings are somewhat dated, it does have tremendous old world charm and elegance which would be difficult to replicate in another setting. The staff were extremely professional and courteous and we were checked-in efficiently.

At check-in, the clerk asked for our passports from which she copied information onto the registration card which we signed. She then handed us a hotel "ID" card which she explained we could use as ID to allow us access to the hotel or to make charges to our room account. We were not asked to produce this card once when entering the hotel and since we didn't charge anything to the room, it wasn't something which we actually used.

The room at the Hotel Nacional was spacious and the bed comfortable. All in all, it is an extremely good hotel and lived up to its billing. Service was excellent and hotel staff went out of their way to help -- including with the in-room safe which need to be activated after paying a CUC3 per day fee.

I decided to obtain more CUC at the CADECA at the Hotel Nacional. Again, the experience was pretty standard with the clerk counting out the CUC in front of me then handing it over with the exchange receipt outlining the transaction. As I do everywhere, I counted the cash while still at the counter and confirmed that the amount was right. There was really no room for any "intentional mistakes" and it all looked very standard. Again here, the rate I received was virtually the same as the rate at the airport CADECA (and no different from the rates posted at CADECAS elsewhere in Havana and the Banco Metropolitano). So there does not appear to be any major rate differences anywhere.

On this occasion, I exchanged some Euros which I had left over from a previous trip to Europe. I was a little concerned as a few of the bills were either torn on very creased. The clerk did not even bat an eye and simply counted the Euro and made the exchange.

Part 3

Walking Around Havana

We tried to walk as much as possible to allow us to truly see and feel the City. From the Hotel Nacional, we walked to Revolution Square, Old Havana, Miramar and Havana Centro walking through the streets of Vedado and along the Malecon. We purposefully tried not to walk the same route twice so that we could see as much of the city as we could in 3 days. We covered a lot of ground and saw a tremendous amount of Havana.

At no time did we feel unsafe or threatened (both men in our 30s) and most Cubans we encountered were very warm and friendly.

Taxis

We did take taxis on four occasions.

1. Coco Taxi
Out of curiosity, we chose to take a Coco Taxi from Old Havana to Copellia as we were a bit rushed to get back to our hotel to get ready for dinner. The cost of the trip was CUC5 which was likely higher than what we would have paid had we taken a metered "Panataxi" but we happily paid CUC5 as the experience was definitely an interesting one. Travel time was 10 minutes.

2. Panataxi
We took Panataxis on two occasions:
a) from the tunnel on the Vedado side to Miramar (we didn't know how to get across by foot): this was our first metered taxi experience and decided to negotiate the rate. Clearly, not knowing the regular rate or the location of our destination (El Aljibe restaurant), we were at a disadvantage and we agreed to a fare of CUC4. We later realized that we would have paid CUC2 had we decided to just use the metered fare (presuming that the taxi driver would have taken the same route). Travel time was about 4 minutes.

b) from the tunnel on the Miramar side to the Hotel Nacional. This time we just waved a panataxi down and the driver used the meter. We paid CUC2 including tip for a distance slightly greater than the previous Panataxi ride. We felt a bit taken but, then again, for CUC1 or so, it wasn't worth being upset about. Travel time was about 7 minutes.

3. Unofficial taxi
On our last day in Havana, we rushed around town in the morning for last minute shopping for ourselves and our families back home. While we did most of it by foot, we realized that we were running out of time and decided to wait at the corner of 23 and 16 to wait for a cab. Within seconds, an unmarked, unofficial taxi came up and after initially asking for CUC2, he happily took CUC1 for the trip from 23 and 16 to 23 and L. Without wanting to nickle and dime him over CUC1, I tipped him an extra CUC1 so he wound up with CUC2. Travel time was about 4 minutes.

He was an extremely courteous man who clearly wasn't a normal driver but spoke excellent English after spending time abroad.

Part 4

Food and Drink

Mojitos were our drink of choice and the quality and taste of it vary. We found that the best mojito was consistently served at the terrace Bar of the Hotel Nacional. It was perfectly done with the mint taste nicely infused through the rum and soda water but not overpowering. It was, in one word, delicious. The price for a mojito at the Hotel Nacional was CUC4.

For dinner, we tried Los Nardos, La Guarida and El Aljibe. For lunch, we had snacks at points throughout our walks around the city but did eat at the Cafe del Oriente terrace.

All four restaurants offered very good service and food. The notion that you cannot have a decent meal in Cuba is false as we did not have a single meal which we didn't like.

True to their reputation, the meal portions served at Los Nardos and El Aljibe were extremely generous -- bordering on the absurd.

La Guarida had a very imaginative menu and the place could easily compete with popular restaurants elsewhere in the world.

The value to money ratio was very good -- at Los Nardos and El Aljibe, two of us had three course dinners including alcohol and tip for CUC35 or so. At La Guarida, it was closer to CUC55 for a three course meal including alcohol and tip.

I would say that all three restaurants are definitely worth visiting and the quality of the meals world class.

Copellia ice cream was a fun experience. It was great watching the families of Cubans lining up for their ice cream fix. As has been said before, there are two sections -- a CUC and CUP section -- with a line at the CUP section which Cubans used. On the day we went, there was only Caramel flavor which is what we had. The ice cream is definitely good. Not too rich or sweet and for CUC1 a scoop, it was a great experience.

Shopping

Shopping was a bit of a challenge. Besides rum and cigars, there are few other things which represented good value for the money.

The rum was extremely cheap and represented great value. There is no point in shopping around as rum prices did not vary from store to store and the selection was generally the same.

Cigars also presented great value with cigars in Cuba costing quite a bit cheaper than in Canada. Again, there is no point in shopping around for cigars as prices were identical everywhere. There is, however, a point in shopping around for selection as some of the cigar shops did not have certain cigars. The most extensive selection could be found at the Partagas Cigar Factory with a good selection at the Hotel Nacional de Cuba.

TIP: When buying cigars, you need to have your passport (or at least know your passport number) to allow the sales clerk to complete the official Habanos sales receipt. You will need this receipt at the airport if you are exporting more than 50 cigars.

Despite a diligent search for artwork and handicrafts, it was disappointing not to be able to find anything "original". The items at the various craft markets looked mass produced so we decided not to buy anything there.

We did manage to get some Industriales shirts at the Latinoamerica stadium as well as some movie posters and t-shirts at the Yara Theatre (across from Coppelia on 23 and L).

Transfer from Hotel Nacional to Airport and Departure

As with the arrival, the airport transfer was pre-arranged and pre-paid. The driver was excellent and, again, pointed out various sights as we drove to the airport. I mentionned that I was disappointed that I didn't find any Industriales souvenirs while looking around Havana and he offered to take us to the Latinoamerica Stadium on the way to the airport (not exactly on the way). He did so and we found the souvenirs we were looking for. For his kindness, we tipped him an extra CUC10 which he was extremely thrilled by.

Upon arrival at the Airport, the airline check-in was effortless. The line moved efficiently and we had plenty of time to pay the airport departure tax (CUC25) and go through the Immigration and Customs exit formalities.

We lined up at the customs booths and after a thorough inspection, the Immigration officer stamped the tourist card (not the passport) and let us through the door.

After passing through the door, our hand bags were screened and we passed through metal detectors. Interestingly, they took particular interest in the tube of movie posters which I was bringing and asked me what they were. After I explained that they were movie posters and presented them with the receipt from the Yara movie theatre, they smiled and thanked me for visiting Cuba and let me go to the gate.

Total time from check-in to gate was about 35 minutes.

General comments

After researching Havana for several weeks before my trip, I was unsure what to expect. The experiences people have had have been so varied (and, perhaps, their agendas for posting have also been as varied).

All in all, I have to say that the service I received was generally good to excellent. Everyone from hotel staff to the wait staff at restaurants to clerks at the stores greeted us in a friendly manner and were genuinely interested in answering our queries. In particular, a store clerk at the Partagas cigar store went out of his way to show us which cigars offered the best value as well as which offered which type of smoking experience (mild, strong, medium etc). Not being cigar smokers, and buying the cigars for family members who are, we left our fate in his hands. The only "impersonal" service was at El Aljibe which, while far from being rude or unacceptable, was not as warm as it was at Copellia, Los Nardos or La Guarida.

I would also have to positively describe the quality and taste of the food we ate. At Los Nardos, we ordered the shrimp thermidore (as the lobster thermidore was not available) and a chicken dish as our mains which were preceded by a bean soup and cheese cream soup as our starters. Of these four items, only the cheese cream soup was disappointing with the rest being quite good. The shrimp thermidore, while a touch too salty, offered about 25 shrimp which I was unable to finish along with rice and vegetables. The desert was creme caramel (or flan as they call it in Cuba) and it was excellent.

At La Guarida, we had the tuna ceviche and the eggplant caviar for starters -- both excellent -- followed by grilled grouper for mains accompanied by rice and fried yucca -- again, both fish dishes were excellent. The desert was a coconut flan with a sauce offering a small hint of curry. This was a world class meal which would be hard to exceed elsewhere.

At El Aljibe, we had the house specialty -- roast chicken with their special orange sauce which was preceded by a sliced tomato, shredded cabbage, and cucumber salad. The meal was huge with each of us being given half a chicken plus a heaping mound of white rice, beans and french fries. As diners have previously reported, the sauce for the chicken and rice was excellent.

The street husslers were, as described, extremely persistent but not aggressive. As soon as you said no, they simply walked away -- unlike those in Jamaica or Mexico who even get mad if you decide not to purchase anything. The "sales pitch" was well rehearsed and was used almost by every hussler we encountered -- an offer to take us to a "special event" (salsa festival) then followed by an offer to sell us "Cohibas" and an explanation that he or she or a friend or relative worked at the cigar factory. Given how persistent these husslers were, it was clear that some foreigners still fall for this line. Given all the warnings we have read, it was not something we wanted to pursue.

We never felt unsafe (but we were two men in our 30s). We walked throughout the day and in the evening and both on well lit major thoroughfares as well as on darker side streets. We asked several Cubans for directions and all of them were exceedingly friendly and helpful.

Budget

Factoring out accommodation -- since that cost is generally pre-arranged either at a hotel or casa particular -- the daily budget for food and snacks should be around CUC30; for drinks (a daily mojito) around CUC8; for transportation around CUC5 and for knick-knacks around CUC15.

In addition, if one were planning to buy souvenirs such as cigars and rum, a further CUC100-CUC200 would be appropriate depending on the quality of rum/cigar one were seeking.

Cuba is definitely not a cheap holiday but the value for money is definitely there.

In terms of purchasing power, it definitely felt cheaper than Mexico City for meals and around the same price as Buenos Aires but a bit more expensive than Beijing. Definitely far cheaper than places like London, Tokyo, Paris or New York.

In terms of goods, as I said earlier, rum and cigars offer excellent value but everything else was all over the map.

Given what Cubans earn, it is advisable to tip those who have provided good service -- from the maid to the hotel concierge to the doormen to the taxi drivers and waiters.

Conclusion

I hope that people find this trip report helpful in planning your own trips to Cuba. It was an extremely positive experience and one which I hope to repeat in the not too distant future.

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Buen viaje!

Thanks for posting so much material for. Obviously a very positive trip.
Cheers
john

Thanks!! Great description, up to the point!

Excellent, thanks for confirming that currency exchange rates are the same at the airport as in town.

Excellent report .. thanks. Any info. on enening/night time entertainment you got involved with would be interesting to know ?

Viajemucho, excellent report that I am sure will be useful to first time visitors to Havana. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

7. Thanks. During the evenings, we actually just walked around Old Havana and Havana Centro so didn't go to any particular place. There was literally music every where so finding a place for after dinner drinks wouldn't be tough at all. We ended each day at the Terrace Bar at the Hotel Nacional where there was always a group playing music. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful in that regard.

Viajemucho: One of the best, most thorough, and detailed trip reports ever posted on this branch. Thanks very much!

You have more than helpful - I have been to Havana three times now and am visiting again this September - I was just curious as to whether you could recommend any particular bar, like you I did nothing much more than spend most late evenings at a terrace bar when I was there, mostly the roof garden at Hotel Inglaterra apart from last year when for some reason it was closed. Anyway thanks again for a very interesting post.

Yup, thanks for taking the time to write something that extensive.

Excellent and thorough travel report, by someone who obviously noted discrepancies between 'what you read on TT Cuba' and 'what you find in Cuba.' <blockquote>Quote
<hr> After researching Havana for several weeks before my trip, I was unsure what to expect. The experiences people have had have been so varied (and, perhaps, their agendas for posting have also been as varied).<hr></blockquote> Its a sad reality, but some of those posting negative opinions here do have agendas, as you understand. The Miami mafia uses the internet as its battleground against Cuba (its economy, and tourist business), and their propaganda appears here ; a good number of the anticuban trolls have never even been to Cuba. Lots of their Cuba-negative friends will also seize on & exaggerate any bit of nonsense to damn Cuba, and that could be dissuasive to travelers. I do suppose that is the intent.

Glad to hear you had a great trip!

# 6

Did you notice that he used the cadeca on the 2nd floor/departure level, and not the one at the arrival which had been reported about previously?

#14, yes I did notice that, it's good to know you can also get up to departures if the lines are too long and they might often be.

11. Thanks. Our favorite bar was the Terrace Bar at the Hotel Nacional. It just had that perfect feel to it and the mojitos were the best of those we tasted in the city. The one bar that stood out in Old Havana was La Mina Terraza because it was not as touristy as El Floridita or La Bodequita del Medio. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

14. Yes, I wanted to definitely make the distinction between the CADECA at the arrivals level and the one on the departures level at the airport as I obviously can't comment on the one at the arrivals level.

One thing I want to underscore, however, is that while I do not dispute the experience of other travellers regarding apparent "intentional mistakes" while exchanging money, I can only say that I did not personally experience it on the two occasions I did visit a CADECA.

As someone who travels extensively worldwide for both business and pleasure, I did not feel, after exchanging money on two occasions, that I had to be any more cautious in Havana than I would have been anywhere else. In fact, my major pet peeve in currency exchange around the world has always been the wide variety of rates and "service charges" which can be found in virtually every city I have visited worldwide and the lack of clarity on these rates. Some claim "no service charge" but then include a hefty mark-up in the exchange rate (ie. up to 10% above the bank rate), others charge a hefty service charge, etc. This has been so irritating that I no longer exchange currency at exchange counters in most places I visit (except China) but rather use my ATM card where I am also guaranteed a predictable rate (normally no more than 1.5% above the bank rate). In the case of Cuba, since I did not want to use my Visa card, I simply used cash and felt quite good about doing so since the exchange rate is relatively fixed and uniform throughout the city.

Vieje, just a few side notes to your post. Los Nardos across the Capitolio (by the way did you tour the Capitolio?) is also one of our favor restaurants in Old Havana because they have Texas sizes steaks on the menu. Just want to point out the bottle water they serve with the menu is $1 so if you are drinking beer you can send it back and when it’s time for the bill there is a 10% service charge added to the total. We usually tip the piano player and the singer on the way out.

Perhaps I am mistaken but I thought you needed an official receipt from the cigar store if you are exporting more than 23 cigars. In Cienfuegos they hand out the regulations as you exit immigration to pick up your luggage but I never pick one up.

I was there last month and one of my amiga works in the bank as a teller and I mentioned some returning tourists are complaining they were short charged when exchanging money and she said it’s possible but not probable. The money is calculated in the computer first and counted by hand and recounted in a money machine and set aside in 1s 3s 5s 10s etc and the customer signs the form and the money is again counted in his presence according to the number of each bills on the receipt at which time the customer can speak up and the manager will come over and recount the money again. Once the costomer leaves the counter they only have his word he is short one bill. One complaint and they can lose their job without notice and it’s a good job to work in an a/c building with good hours. She said if it does happen it’s not in her bank and some tourists needs to be more responsible because she has to remind them to pick up their passport or purse or hat, etc. My banking experience mirrors yours without any mistakes and what is on the receipt is what I get.

If you traveled in China, Cuba is a breeze.

Rickie

Thanks -- we didn't enter the Capitolio as it was closed for some reason. It is one for the next trip. Agree regarding the bottled water but CUC1 is pretty par for the course. On the 10% service charge, we added another 10% for the waiter as we weren't sure whether the service charge was distributed to all the staff or was kept by the restaurant. In the end, the food quality and the service earned the additional tip.

Correction -- 23 cigars not 50

Yes, you are correct, an official receipt must be produced when exporting more than 23 cigars. I mistakenly typed 50 cigars as that is what I exported by the receipt would be required for any export over 23 cigars. Thanks for pointing that out.

Agree with the observation from your friend at the bank. I really don't see how a bank teller or CADECA agent can risk their job by making an "intentional mistake" -- furthermore, who wouldn't count their cash after receiving it? It only makes common sense and if a mistake is made, counting it in front of the teller/agent at the counter allows you to rectify the error. I automatically do that when I withdraw cash from my home bank and certainly do that whenever I exchange currency while travelling -- whether in Cuba or elsewhere.

Thanks for pointing out my error.