Eating and taxis in Jordan - prices?

Hello,

I am planning to spend about 10 days in Jordan for honeymoon. We'll start with the north, probably staying by the Dead sea in one of those spa resorts, then go south to Aqaba, visiting Petra either on the way if we go by surface transport (staying overnight?), or from Aqaba going by bus / taxi. And we would fly back home from Aqaba
I would like to know how much the whole trip will cost. Certainly the biggest expenses will be hotels and air transport, but I know exactly those prices.
The next biggest expense should be food.
Could someone tell me how much I can expect to pay for lunch or diner in Amman, in the Dead sea resort (If I am in one of the hotels, I guess I can walk to any other for diner, but prices must be the same and rather high?), and in Aqaba. I already found information about restaurants in those places, but the only information I found about prices was over 4 years old, so I'm afraid it's outdated, especially for Aqaba. We are not looking for fancy restaurants, just decent ones, as we would like to keep the money to get good hotels, spa services and having fun in Aqaba.

Concerning taxis or buses, which I'm guessing will be the 4th biggest expense, I don't know how much it will cost to go from the Amman Int'l airport to the Dead sea resort, and from that resort to Amman or to Jerash (or the Castle deserts) and back. Also, is there any possibility to take a taxi from the Dead sea resort to Petra? How much would that be? The advantage of the taxi would be that I could stop anywhere we want. There is also a bus from Amman to Petra I think. How much would it be?
To go from Aqaba to Petra or Wadi Rum, are there enough good buses, or are taxis preferable? How much?
While in the Dead Sea resort, are tourists stuck there and have to take taxis (which makes it easier to charge more in the restaurants) or are there some buses to Amman?
Would anyone advise me to hire a car in Amman (Europcar?) and leave it in Aqaba? Is there a rental service in the Dead Sea resort? In which hotel? is it possible to leave the car in Aqaba from there?

Thanks a lot for any information.

I had some ideas of prices for car rental in other threads ( http://rentareliablecar.com , http://www.hertzjordan.com/ both seem better than Europcar, and I'll probably go for Hertz) and it's possible to leave the car in a different location. So this matter is almost settled, although if it would be nice to have price of taxis and buses to take a decision, espcially if a good bus service can save a day of car rental.

But until now the only price indication for food I got is an email I just got from the Dead Sea Spa hotel : 35 USD per meal per person: they have to be kidding? Is there a way to spend less than that? Is it just because the Dead Sea resort has its tourists prisoner of the resort and they can charge whatever they want? If we have to spend more than 30 euros (2 x15€) per meal, we'll have to cut the trip by one or two days... What are prices like in Amman, Aqaba, and in smaller towns in between? What should I do while in the Dead Sea resort? A hunger strike? Would fit well with the spa thing, but not with the honeymoon thing. I guess they charge 5 euros for a liter of water?

edit: I should mention that I am looking for restaurants where I can have local food and be with locals rather than crowds of tourists. And as long as I don't get poisoned, it should be OK. Any chance to get decent meals at 15-20 euros for 2 persons? Or should we buy food in the supermarket and eat in the hotel rooms ?
Thanks!

Edited by: frantsuz_2

I haven't stayed at the dead sea resorts but it definitely sounds like they have a strangle hold on the resturants if that's what they are charging. When I was in Amman and Petra I think my meals were generally about 10JD which I think would be approx. 15 USD and there were definitely other places that were cheaper.

I can't help you with bus or taxi info as I was on a tour so we had our own transported included in the tour price.

Thank you egoode for the info. 11 euro per person is closer to what I am looking for. If there are decent places that canbe slightly cheaper, that should be fine. Now I have to find out what to do while in the Dead Sea Resort (I don't like the idea of a hunger strike), and price ranges in Aqaba (I'm worried everything will be much more expensive there).
And I still want to know about taxis and buses.
Thanks in advance for any additional information.

There is also a bus from Amman to Petra I think. How much would it be?

Yes, there is a bus (leaving near Abdali Station (400m road out of town) - reservation at least one day in advance is maybe a good idea); costs about 7.5JOD).
I don't know about the other parts of your trip (private taxis are quite expensive for longer trips; food at food stalls is really cheap (shwarama/falafel <<1JOD) and good.

Thank you Speedtravel08, those are good news. I don't think my fiancée will agree on a 1 euro/ meal falafel diet (she doesn't like food stands in her own country), but thanks to you I'm confident we'll find affordable food outside the Dead Sea resort, and keep that part of the budget under control.
The bus is also a good possibility, thanks. I imagine it's pretty expensive for locals, but for us it would save a lot, although the taxi or the rental car has the advantage of giving the possibility to stop anywhere we want on the way (Kerak or even small towns who receive very few tourists). If there is a bus from Amman to Kerak, would I be able to catch a taxi from there to Petra or Aqaba?

Few questions remaining, in only a few hours, this community is amazing, thanks.
Mostly: how to eat in the Dead Sea Resort without taking a 30 year loan (rates are too high anyway)? Are there buses taking people out of that Resort? To Jerash and to the desert castle, what prices by bus or taxi? What would be a price for a taxi from the Resort to Petra ?(by either road, with a lunch stop and a picture stop on the way).

I got some answers from the hotel Marriott on the Dead Sea:
They have 3 buses going to Amman every day at 10.45, 16.00 and 22.00. The price is 10 JOD per person, it's a bloody rip-off (I understood the bus from Amman to Petra is 7.5 JOD, and the distance is about 8 times more). So the price to go by bus for 2 is 40 JOD, with very limites choices of schedule, and of course no choice of destination.
Their taxi is 45JD, one way only. So both ways would be 90JOD. That's enough to rent a car 3 days. So I really have to hire a car.
Their buffet is 18 JOD+tax, so about 22 EUR. It's also a rip-off but much less than at the Dead Sea Spa (about 40 EUR!!!). I guess we'll be eating mostly in Amman. And of course they have restaurants where one can eat for much more.
Would anyone know if there are any restaurants along the road near the hotels. Of course the guy at the reception of Marriott told me there isn't, as their goal is to keep the guests money for themselves, but what are the buildings less than 1 km from the hotels, both north and south along the road?
A funny thing about those hotels is that they are so dishonest, all their websites show maps where their hotel appears much further south than they really are, obviously to justify the price of their taxis and buses. This is kind of sick. They think people can't use Google maps?

Frans - it you hire a car in Jordan for 10 days - you will get a very good deal.
I imagine you can get a medium sized car 1300cc engine for about 25 JD per day
smaller cars will of course be less around 22JD. Always ask the day price and then
the weekly price and then for 10 days . . . inclusive of full insurance. Why bother
messing about with public transport - which you will find difficult and inconvenient
and waste some of your valuable time, when you can pack everything in your car
and set off. As you said - you will pay around 15JD just to get to Petra on the public
bus ! Hertz is expensive - try Budget, Thrifty, Europcar/National - there are hundreds
of rent a car places.

Dead Sea : The Dead Sea area is pretty much isolated from everything - its almost
impossible to walk anywhere because of the heat. The hotels charge 5 star prices for
all their food, transport etc, so it will get expensive. I am surprised that the Dead Sea
Spa quoted you $35 - I think that price includes a day admission to use all their facilities
and the pool and beach etc. As far as I know the set open buffet there costs around
$20 and no way is it more expensive that the Marriott since they are 4 and Marriott are 5 stars.

The reception man told you correctly there aren't any nearby places. Perhaps the nearest
place is in Sweimeh and very very local. I guess you might not like to eat there. I have
eaten there and his grilled food is very tasty and hot home made bread - all for around
3JD each - but as you said your partner isn't into street food - you couldn't eat there.
This area is fairly remote. When you get there you will understand.

You have the option to go to the Amman Beach where you will pay 6 JD to get in and use
the beach and facilities and restaurant which has a decent open buffet for around $12.
Also at the same place there is a different section that you can pay 12JD to enter and use the open pool and the beach and the same restaurant - this side is more preferable for
you than the public side.

Alternatively, you can go to the Panorama area where they have a nice restaurant which has spectacular views hence its name - one of the Jordanian Princes had his wedding there. You can have grilled meat, salds and side dishes for 2 would cost around $30
maybe less maybe more, depends on how you eat. There prices were reasonable and the food good last time I ate there, its run by a local 5 star hotel. They have a nice museum next door.

Madaba - you can eat in Haret Jdoudna for around $25 for 2, excellent food.
Amman eat at Jerusalem restaurant - good hearty local food for around 4/5 JD each
and you will be stuffed. Excellent food. Of course you have the range of all the well
known fast food restaurants Mac whatevers etc for around 4JD per person a meal -
just to give you an idea.

The shawermas and falafel what someone mentioned above, whilst considered street
food, they are not sold from stalls - they are restaurants - some are very famous and
they are delicious. Some have excellent sit down and eat areas like Abu Jbarra in
Medina Munawara street in Amman - this is 'posh' foul and hummous, falafel and very
delicious. Of course these places charge double the normal places. This food is
usually eaten at breakfast time although it can be eaten all day. Under 3JD each

Um Qais - Romero restaurant in the castle is excellent. Open buffet lunch last time I
went and it cost around 10JD each.

Jerash - Green Valley restaurant is excellent and costs around 10JD per person, again
depends upon what you eat. Its all grilled meats and side dishes.

I hope this helps.

Thank you Mesha for taking so much time to give me all this information. Definitely helpful.
Is Sweimeh the little settlement a few km north of the 5 stars? and there are normal shops and restaurants there?
I assumed that if I am a guest at one of the 5 stars I have free access to their beach. And I also assume I could walk 100 meters and have access to the public beaches. Am I wrong?
I also thought Dead sea Spa should be less expensive, but here is the email with the rip-off offer I received:

+We would like to thank you for your interest towards the Dead Sea Spa Hotel,

We would like to extend our rooms rate as follows.

Hotel rates

1. Single room USD 180 per room per night

2. Double room USD 200 per room per night

3. Extra bed USD 50 per night

4. Extra meal USD 35 per meal per person

For more information please do not hesitate to contact us assuring you

Of our best-personalized services at all time.

Thank

Best Regards

Tanya Farran+

This is the whole text without any modification, from the first to the last line. It's so bad it looks like a Nigerian scam. I'm afraid that if I say I'm interested they'll ask me to send money by Western Union.

Actually I would enjoy very local stuff, and I'll try to negociate. No chance for food stalls but if the cheap restaurants you mentioned look more or less clean I have some chances...
The very local restaurants you mentionned are near the Dead Sea Spa, near the 5 stars, or somewhere else?

On Google map I see some buildings less than 1 km from the 5 stars. I understood that in september the heat was bearable, am I too optimistic thinking we could do a 10 minute walk?

The best deal for car I found so far was with Hertz. I want to take the car in the north (Amman, Airport or Dead Sea) and leave it in the south (Aqaba or Aqaba airport). That limits the number of possible companies (Budget and some locals are only in Amman, unfortunately). Europcar charges a lot for such a deal, while with Hertz the surcharge is small.

edit: so much information in Mesha's message I missed some: That buffet on the beach is interesting, where is Amman beach? in Sweimeh I assume? north of the 5 stars?

edit again: I can't edit messages that have been answered. For the Dead Sea Spa I confused USD and JOD. It's 35 USD, not JOD. Still too much, and still more than 18 JOD.

Edited by: frantsuz_2

Sweimeh is a very poor area so I don't think you can contemplate this place at all.
You might be able to buy the odd thing from the supermarket ie bottle water, Cola etc.
This is where the local restaurants are.

Its a lot more than 10 minutes walk - more like 30 minutes from Dead Sea Spa.

All the 5 star hotels and Dead Sea Spa have their own pools and private beach for
all hotel guests.

The Amman Beach is about 15 minutes walk from Dead Sea Spa. Towards the
south.

If you have a car - why not stay in Madaba its only 30 minutes drive away - like
the Miriam hotel or Madaba Inn. See their websites - they also offer tansport to
many places like Petra at reasonable cost.

You can eat in the Marriott or Movenpick at one of their restaurants like Champions
and have a meal like burger and pizza for around $10 or salads and pasta for the
same price each. Steak dinner will cost around $22 each These are additional cafe/restaurants to the main hotels.

Dead Sea area is known for expensive places.

Thanks for the additional advice, Mesha
If you have a car - why not stay in Madaba its only 30 minutes drive away
Because we HAVE TO stay a few days in a spa resort. Yeah I've seen the prices of the massages etc of the Marriot. Over 60 dollars to get covered by mud from the Dead Sea when you can walk out and do it yourself, it's crazy. Those prices are even higher than the prices of er... special massages. But it's a honeymoon after all. And in exchange for spending this fortune on spa, I will get some fun in Aqaba: snorkeling, windsurfing, and maybe boating with a mini sailboat, this kind of thing.
Please tell me that I won't have to cut an arm to pay for the rent of a windsurf in Aqaba. I need both arms to windsurf.

edit: we'll certainly go to the Amman Beach. And if we have a car we'll have a look at Sweimeh. From the resort it's on the way to Amman anyway, right?

Edited by: frantsuz_2

frantsuz_2 just so you know you can't actually cover yourself in mud from the dead sea. At least at the place I swam the area near the shore is extremely rocky, and I would recommend shoes to wear in the water to get out past the rocks. And once you get past the rocky area you can't reach down the get the mud as you can't put your head in the water, however they were selling the mud on the shore for about 3JD to cover you from head to toe which is much cheaper than 60!

Although I don't think I was in one of the hotel areas I don't remember seeing any hotel rooms but I can't remember what it was called. It had a pool and then a fenced of part of the beach and next door it looked like it was the free beach as a lot of locals appeared to be there. Does anyone else know where I was???

so you know you can't actually cover yourself in mud from the dead sea...
Oh yeah, makes sense. I'm really looking forward to try going under the water. Still, this 3 JOD bucket of mud sounds like a good idea. Then we can use the money saved for a Thai massage or something. Of course it would be 5 times cheaper in Thailand (not much futher from Moscow), but they have to stop fighting if they want to see honeymooners.

Btw I suppose 3JOD for a bucket of mud must be a good deal for the locals too. After all to collect it you just need lots of weight around the waist and a hose to breathe from (disclaimer: don't try this yourself!), and you can collect 50 buckets in less than an hour. [dreaming aloud] 100 per day, 2500 per month in the peak season, 24000 per year, 2000 buckets=6000 JOD per month average. starting investment 50 JOD (weights, buckets, hose). I'll think about that as reconversion.[/dreaming aloud]

No the reason you can't go underwater isn't due to the bouancy so much as that it's so salty it's to dangerous to go underwater. You will see signs when you arrive telling you not to put your head underwater due to the high salt content, don't even rub your eyes with your hand. I managed to get a tiny drop go into my eye and it was one of the most painful feelings ever, I couldn't see out of the eye for about 20mins.

However it is pretty fun bobbing up and down in the water and a very weird feeling.

Ah OK. Then I guess people with long hair have to bring some swimming pool hat to avoid ruining their hair.
Note for the future: I'll also need very good goggles to start my Dead Sea mud business :).