Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Annapurna trek direction

Country forums / Indian Subcontinent / Nepal

Hi, I'm landing in Kathmandu on the 19'th August planning on doing the Annapurna Circuit and Sanctuary (solo) in 19 days or less.

Can someone please advise on what considerations may sway the decision to go clockwise or counter-clockwise.

I'm thinking the biggest issue might be acclimatization. Does one route offer a more gradual ascent into the higher zones than the other?

I like the idea of getting the Pokhara-Kat bus trip out of the way earlier which would make it a counter-clockwise trek, though that would seem to get you into the Annapurna BC very soon.

Weather? We're moving out of the monsoon so maybe it will rain less towards the end of the trek, so start with the less rainy leg first? (I see comments advising that there is one)

Is there one direction that trekkers tend to take more than the other? To go with the flow would aid in socializing.

thanks,

Dave

Correction above, start from Pokhara is clockwise direction.

(sorry i live in the southern hemisphere)

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I'm getting a bit confused about the clock direction!

I think the conventional wisdom is that it's easier to go over the Thorung Phedi pass from Manang than up from Jomsom. I've heard that some trekking agencies argue the opposite, that if "something goes wrong", then it's better to get someone back to Jomsom, where "help is available". That sounds a bit paranoid to me. But I think most people go with the conventional wisdom, so that's probably the way the "flow" goes.

From what I can tell, the stretch from Manang to Jomsom, roughly, is less likely to be affected by the monsoon than some other stretches. Perhaps, if you are coming out of the monsoon season, leaving the sanctuary to the end would improve your chances of good weather there.

Should add that I'm speaking through my foot here, that I've never done the trip myself: I'm planning on doing it this Sept - Oct myself. But that's what I've read and picked up.

You see an Australian-Indonesian couple on the trek, say hi.

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One (good) reason is, that it gets extremely windy and therefore very cold on Thorung La after about 10.00 am. From Muktinath to the pass is a long walk and then you have to keep going to at least High Camp in order to spend the night, which would make it a pretty hard day...

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Sorry, one good reason to do the trek anticlock wise...
most trekkers start in Besi Sahar and I have only seen people on horseback doing Thorung La from Muktinath...

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Thanks for contributions. The maps I've seen, including yetizone, lead counter so pretty sure I'll be going that way. Will be wise to have company going your direction at 5000m.

While I'm here...

Getting clothing right is a bit of a pain for this. Monsoon plus alpine altitudes so you need a bit of everything and need to stay light. Does anyone know what kind of day temperature to expect around the higher altitudes of the circuit around Aug/Sep? I'm thinking 2 layers down bottom, thermal + light hiking pants, and up top thermal+fleece
shell. How about gloves? Will my Goretex ski gloves be overkill? Do people wear something lighter like simple woolen or fleece on the hands?

(hi jakboy, i'm Aussie too but will only be there till mid-Sep)

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problem is many make it to manag or so and then turn back, in which case the other side would be better becasue the altitude is more gradual.
don't worry bout cloths, you can rent all and everything in pokhara.

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Hi,
If you are fit, experienced trekkers, then I would go for an anti-clockwise tour of the Annapurna Circuit. The ascent is more gradual, the trail is nicer (IMHO), and there are cool side-trips to help acclimatise (Ice Lakes - yeah!!)

Clothing; most people seem to overdo it. Think layers rather than a single item of top-level branded clothing. Waterproof over-trousers are light and provide a great deal of protection not only from precipitation, but also wind. I took light inner gloves and a pair of wind-proof outers, which was perfectly fine. You can buy anything you forgot in Kathmandu - just don't stay too long!

Mike

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Definitely go in the anit-clockwise direction. For the few who risk going the other way, climbing from Muktinath at 3800 m and making the 1600m ascent to the summit of the pass (more than 5000 ft gain) when you are acclimatized at best to the altitude of Muktinath is taking a great risk. In the event the weather changes as you ascend (and it can do this very quickly) stranding you at high altitude in a white out, worst case scenario is you could develop severe altitude sickness problems and be unable to move back or forward. The Thorong La has claimed lives before - don't risk becoming a statistic! You have the opportunity to become much better adjusted to the altitude as you walk up the east side of the circuit. From Thorong Phedi you stat the journey over the pass from about 600m higher than Muktinath. It's a much wiser choice.
The other factor that you must consider at this time of year, however, is the monsoon itself....this can produce heavy wet snow in the Himalaya and landslides at lower elevations. Particularly this year, the monsoon has been heaviest in 15 years. Take care. It's not the greatest time to be trekking. You could get to Thorong Phedi and find that the pass is not open. Check with local people and listen to their advice.

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Counter-clockwise from Manang to Thorong La is easier and safer, and as 99% of trekkers go that way the lodging is also arranged that way: there are a number of lodges nicely separated on the east, approach side, hardly any on the steep west side.

Clothing: I have crossed the pass 3 times, and I would take something like this:

One set of long thermal underwear, also worn as pyjamas at Thorong Phedi. You might need the long johns only once in the morning of going up the pass, the shirt can be used as trekking attire. Couple of sports t-shirts.

Thin long sleeve fleece/powerstretch

Thick/thickesh fluffy fleece

Windjacket/paclite shell jacket

Light long trekking pants, stretchy material

Light capris or modest shorts

Balaclava or wool cap (cheap from KTM), thin fleece gloves and wool mitts (ditto)

Warm woolmix socks (I have alvays used jogging shoes/trail runners)

No need for extra thick down jackets (nice to have a thin down jacket though for evenings) and NEVER down pants. It is more the wind than cold that gets you going up the pass, movement keeps you quite warm, down is not good for this.

From these you can form all possible combinations from days of sub-topics to the 6 hour possible arctic sprint. Remember, you get no style point up there, if you are cold just layer everything including wearing two layers of pants on the top of each other and long johns. More important to keep the load light, unless you have porters, have a lot of money and want to use this as an excuse to buy extreme gear...

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