Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Ambivalent about Leon--Would be be fools to skip it?

Country forums / Central America / Nicaragua

I've got the usual problem--too many places I want to go and too little time. From the research I've done, Leon just doesn't seem to be calling to me. We're middle-age and not looking for that student vibe. We've seen thousands of European churches in our lives, but our experience in the southern Americas is limited to Cusco and Lima. We'll already be spending time in Granada for our taste of city life. We are particularly interested in experiencing the unique eco-systems in Nicaragua and doing some active things. We don't want to run around all the time just to try to say we've sen everything, and would prefer a quality experience over quantity.

So far our plans include Granada and its surroundings for 3 or 4 days, probably on one of the islands in las Isletas for 2 nights, Ometepe for probably 3 nights, and a couple days in the Northern Highlands to experience the cloud forest. I could possibly fit in a day in Leon, but I don't know if given our interests and limited time it is worth it. We've got 11 nights because we need to spend night 12 by the airport in Managua.

What are your thoughts on Leon? I guess I should also mention that we'll be in Nicaragua the 1st two weeks in Jan. Thanks so much.

I'm not gonna say that you're fools if you skip León! But in my opinion León is much nicer and has more to offer than Granada. Granada is a 100% tourist town, León is much more authentic.
The Big Foot Hostel is filled with young back packers, not the first choice for people of your age I think!
I stayed in Casona Colonial close to Parque San Juan. ( Parque San Juan 1/2 cuadra al Oeste no. 210} A place I can highly recomment to others.
In Granada Hostal Dorado {www.hostaldorado.com}

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I really loved Leon. There is a fantastic art museum there and if you are into history, the Museum of Traditions and Legends and the murals that are all over the town, as well as the revolutionary museum on the Parque Central. You can also head to the Ruben Dario Museum although I didn't see it so can't recommend it. If you enjoy hiking, you can try to book a day trip through Quetzaltrekkers to see some of the nearby volcanoes.

Having said all that, it is your vacation and you'll have to decide if that is too much to pack into 11 days...for me personally, I'd save leon until next time when you can enjoy it and not run around the whole time. Have a great trip whatever you decide!

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You've all been helpful. Right now my inclination is to skip it just because I don't want to spend all my time travelling from place to place and wasting a lot of time in transit. But, some of you are definitely making it sound like a place I would visit if I had the time.

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Leon vs Granada is a common question, and the answer really depends on what you're looking for. There are plenty of restaurants serving expensive tourist food, but you can find local eateries on the side streets once you leave the square. I wouldn't say Granada is a 100% tourist town, but it's pretty close. To escape the tourist throngs, I'd recommend a stroll through the old market in the lower part of town, where among kiddie-pool sized vats of pickled peppers, you can find stacks of cheap piggy banks -- old-school piggy banks you have to smash to open, not the kind that has an opening at the bottom to empty it out.

Leon has more culture, if that's what you're in to. Fewer tourists. You can climb to the roof of Leon's cathedral for a great view of the city and the bizarre concrete domes at the top of the roof. Tours at the revolutionary museum are enthusiastically given by people involved in the revolution. There's an interesting archaeological museum/indigenous art gallery in nearby Subtiava. The food, though, is unremarkable (and sometimes horrible), except for the street food near the market. As mentioned, murals are all over, and can be a destination in themselves for those who are interested in history and art.

It looks like you might not be able to go to Leon, but if you do, a ride on the bus pelon (7 cords) at night is a great way to see the city with the locals. The roofless bus drives all around the city, and is a favorite pastime of the Leon folks. Last time I took it, there were whole families, young lovers, and even a few nuns on the bus.

You mentioned that you wanted to go to the highlands for a day. Matagalpa makes a good base of operations, and there's great chow there. I wrote a piece about the city's gastronomic offerings here.

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It's your call, but I've been to both and to Cusco and Lima also. Granada is more like Cusco then Leon is. It has some tourist incliations and I think that may be more what your suited for at this point in your traveling experience. There's a lot to do around the city and if you stay on the square, it's veru nice at night to sit on the balcony of St. Fransicos(or whatever it's called) and have a drink while overlooking the activity. I stayed at the Colonial twice which is steps from the square with two pools and nice AC rooms. I'm middle aged too, just started the travel thing quite a while ago. I would suggest this over any hostel!! The only good thing about Leon vs Granada on your trip would be it's proximity to the highlands and Pacific coast. It's hotter then Granada too. It's very safe walking around the main square area of Granada. I've never had any problems and have walked quite far. I even went to the Saturday market there, which I would suggest going to.
You'll love it no matter where you go!

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Thanks for this post. I am about to spend 5 days in the Leon area (my whole trip is only that long so I had to pick a spot), and while some of the time will be spent hiking, it's nice ot know that there is so much to see in Leon proper.

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site burp - double post :). My original post was directed at lootsuit.

Edited by: naugastyle

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SEE & DO IN LEON

GRANADA SEE & DO

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