Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Agra or Goa

Country forums / Indian Subcontinent / India

Greetings,

As I am only in Mumbai for twelve days, Id like to get a train either

a) South to Goa
b) To Agra/ Delhi for several days
c) North of Mumbai
d) Stay in and around Mumbai for the time in India.

Any suggestions/advice would be greatly appeciatted, I guess Goa and Agra are top of the list, but it would be difficult to do both in twelve days, without exhausting our time in India.

Thanks

Alex

well im in goa at the moment and all im saying is wow goa is awesome the place is so beautiful the people so friendly the beaches are ilylic we are currently in cova but we are going down to palolem in the morning for a month

its fantastic and the weather is gtreat toooooo
come down and enjoy

1

Hi Alex,

Seeing as though your time in India is limited, you would be better off flying to Goa from Mumbai. Deccan Air is a good bet. They have some great web fares and you can usually get on at short notice. Jet Airways and Kingfisher Air are more expensive but they are generally not prone to delays as is Deccan. I was in Bangalore a week or so ago when irate Deccan passengers smashed up the ticket counter at the airport because they were denied boarding.

Enjoy your trip - D

2

Wow Goa sounds like the place to be, how much can you get by on each day? Think we'll probably get the train overnight, as we are on a budget.
Id love to see Agra too, but I guess theres only so much you can do!
Tell me more about Goa!

Alex

3

If traveling to Goa, The train is the best option if you are gonna be staying in the town/colaba area.

Train leaves CST station around 11 PM and reaches goa around 10 AM. its a sleeper where you have the option for AC and the fare is 800 bucks or so.

0111 konkankanya express.

4

I would head on the train to Goa. Also (I tell everyone this because I love it so much) go on an excursion to Hampi for a few days once you are in Goa. It's only an 8 hr train ride from Goa. Then afterwards head back to the Goan beaches.

5

IR,

Do you mean rp800 ??? :-)

Although, after a while on the road, I find that I start to think of each rupee as a $.

Cheers
Zoltan

6

Yeah I was going to mention that Zoltan, Im English but 800 Bucks????? Woah! Might helicopter it instead at that rate! jokes

I think it has to be Goa though, thanks for the Hampi suggestion Andiarry ill look it up, in fact thanks for all of your suggestions, my eyes are wide open. I take it Agra is that bit too far for how long we are there?

The night train sounds perfect, we wont miss out on anything!

Cheers

Alex

7

If you are going to Goa, definitly head to Hampi as well. It was my highlight of the south. The problem with Goa is that it is by no means the real India - of course it's in India, but you will spend your time on the beaches with other foreigners and will see no Indian culture. So while you are there at least do your best to get to Hampi for a bit of history, and spend a day or two off the beaches in Panaji and Old Goa.
For money, it will probably depend on what beach you go to. Beaches like Palolem and Arambol are suitable for budget travellers and you can get by on well under $20 if you want to, though it depends on how much time you spend drinking in restaurants. In these beaches they charge prices somewhat similar to what is standard in India. Other beaches, that cater more to mid-upper budget travellers, will cost you much more since they charge prices that foreigners are used to paying at home rather than what prices should be in India. I took a day trip to Baga and Calangute and couldn't believe the prices. We went to the cheapest restaurant we could find and a sandwich costed about what I usually was paying for 2 or 3 meals. So if you are on a budget, stick to the cheaper beaches - I recomend Palolem.

8

If you really want to have a taste of India and an experience that will blow you away - please steer clear of Goa. Agra/Delhi and surrounds will give you an experience that Goa cannot possibly match.

If you just want to chill, drink beer, lay on the beach, talk with other westerners - go to Goa. Not really the stuff of dreams and adventures.

9

Agree very much with Kayden.

If I only had 12 days in India I wouldn't bother going to Goa. Of course if you love beaches, or have never seen a real tropical beach it might be worth it for you. But it's just not really India. It is where you go to get AWAY from India after 2 months on the road, imo. At the end of the day it depends on what type of person you are, what you like and so on but I'd give Goa a miss on a trip like that. If you've been to Thailand you've seen it all before, and better. Taj Mahal or Agra is something you won't find anywhere else in the world.

And AndiArry is right. If you do decide go to Goa a trip to Hampi is a MUST-DO!

Pictures and stuff from Hampi on my weblog. Start from bottom.

10

I agree wth *10, if you've been to Thailand, Goa will disapoint, and if you know Indian prices Goa will drive you nuts.

I enjoyed Goa, just not in the way I enjoy the rest of India, if I wan't a Goa type holiday I'll go to Thailand next time.

If you do decide to go (and don't decide against because of what I say, I'm not a beach person), just don't think you're going to find a paradise, you'll get a nice break near a beach, how good that is will depend on how much research you do, the main problem is that the perfect location 2 years ago is now a place crowded with people looking for that idylic location.

Same with restaurants, research them well.

11

800 bucks! sheesh ;-)

12

Have to agree with giving Goa a miss, although i have to say i don't agree with "it's not really India" tell that to the Goan Hindu majority. 12 days would be better spent in Maharastra or Karnataka owing to more temples, monuments and places of interest.

Goa has in the past few years seen a decline in social conduct from tourists and locals alike, the two week package crowd are only interested in getting third degree burns and an extended waistline, dropping litter and generally pleasing themselves. While the locals who are only too pleased to panda to their whims, do a moonlight garbage run from the coastal wonderland to the inland dumping grounds (villages). Go see some of "Incredible India" and give Goa a miss.

13

assago - I would have to ague your "dropping litter" accusation. If you travel through every part of India - you will notice how much the local people disregard the notion of disposing of littler properly. It is a filthy place with garbage strewn everywhere. All their waterways are septic and the cities stink. This is not caused by tourists. Visitors to the country generally are educated and habitual in their "proper" disposal of rubbish. It is only with long term exposure will a foreigner join the local mindset of "what difference will it make with one more bit of littler out of the window".

14

Wow I must say Im completely overwhelmed with your responses, all extremely helpful. We fly out of Mumbai to Singapore and up through Vietnam and Cambodia for Two months so I think this kind of rules Goa out.
However, this brings me to anyother line of questioning, How easy is it to get to Agra and Delhi via train from Mumbai?
I can fully appreciate and relate to your thoughts on the sunburned, fried breakfast, rowdy drunken stumblers that haunt these once untouched areas of India, I have seen the same thing elsewhere, and I think as travellers it is kind of our duty to avoid these places, and find our own paradise, whatever that may be.
I can imagining travelling overnight saves time for us, but I dont think Im going to want to travel through India with my eyes closed?
Shame we will probably miss out on Hampi, perhaps someone may have further suggestions of places/experiences in/on route to/ and around Agra/New Delhi?

Thanks again

Alex

15

I don't know exactly how tight your budget is, but you REALLY should consider flying if you are going as far north as Agra and New Delhi. Plane tickets are not horribly expensive in India these days (2-4 times what your train ticket would be), and especially not on a route such as Bombay-Delhi. With Spice Jet you can get a one way ticket for less than INR2500 incl. tax. And it'll save you a heck of a lot of time. 17 hours is the quickest train connection according to Footprint - going back and forth will thus cost you at least 34 precious hours. Consider the plain at least one way.

Once you get to Delhi, getting around to Agra, Jaipur, Varanasi, Amritsar or wherever you fancy is easy enough by train.

16

I took the train from Agra to Mumbai and it took about 22 hours. Don't miss out on an epic train journey as these are brilliant and you get to meet the true Indian people - not just the beggars and touts. (Don't do A/C) But you should consider flying back to Bombay to get your forwarding flight. Couldn't you change so that you fly out of Delhi?

BTW Jaipur is a place that you should see and it is not too far from Agra/Delhi.

Cambodia and Vietnam won't be such a shock once you leave India. I envy you as I love all of these places - India is the best travelling experience, but Cambodia wins my heart. And Vietnam is the friendliest place on earth. Don't ignore the touts in Cambodia and Vietnam - they are nothing like India.

17

But is it really the time for an epic 22-hour train journey when you only have 12 days in India?

18

duh. yes 800 bucks is 800 rupees in an indian context.. common sense no?

19

O.K. tigerphan, i guess the "every part of India" is another generalisation, but then we're not talking about every part are we. The coastal belt of Goa has in the past few years become a landfill site, it's a nice idea that the foreign visitor to India doesn't drop litter, but in reality it's not true. The beaches are strewn with fag ends and Candolim, Calangute and Baga look like they've witnessed a daily ticker tape parade during a refuse strike. And now that the tourist tornado has all but obliterated the north, the wind is now moving south.

20

Hi

I was in Goa and Delhi(Agra) in the past two weeks and would recommend both, but if pushed will choose Delhi purely for the Taj Mahal. You can do both if you fly between the two( 2.30 hour flight). The train from Delhi to Agra is 2 hours and leaves Delhi at 6.15 am and you get breakfast and coffee. The return leg is at 20.30 pm with dinner and ice cream. The return ticket is 800 rupees and beats the bus and car option as the bus takes 4 to 5 hours.

In Agra outside the station there is a pre-paid taxi booth where you can organise a driver for the day to take you to the various sites.

Enjoy

21

y e s indian resident. we all worked out you were referring to rupees. but to us bucks will always be "dollars". so we make a little joke.

22

here here,

I have investigated the Agra/Delhi plan, I think ill take the train as it will I think, in some way add to the experience. My loose plan then, is to stay in Mumbai for a few days and head up through Jaipur to Agra via Delhi, hopefully ammend my flight to leave from Delhi to Singapore.
Anyone have any reccomendations for Jaipur/Agra (other than the obvious)?
Excellent Blog eagersnap, Madras looks wonderful too, Im beginning to realise I might have to come back to this country.
Where is the best place to see 'wild' India, on route to and around Agra from Mumbai?

Thanks

Alex

23

hi
goa, oh it is a nice place, but remember it is summer and temp might be touching 40 c , and you would not get train ticket as it is vacation period in maharashtra and everyone around will be heading there, so why done you try some hill stations in karnataka, maharashtra- or even munnar in kerala- they are really hassle free and very beautiful..

24

Do go to Fatepur Sikri near Agra. The Taj will blow you away with its splendour - take your time to absorb this unique sight. The fort is a good outing as well. There is a tiger national park between Jaipur and Agra (maybe a little to the south) which may be open. You will not regret the train journey - in my opinion - an essential part of the Indian experience. Jaipur is frantic, hectic, chaotic, and beautiful. I loved walking around the tiger fort early in the morning when no people were around and all you can hear is the occasional horn from the city and the loud calls of wild peacocks in the undeveloped landscape.

Do a tour of Delhi on a rickshaw - best way to get around. If you live - the adrenalin rush will add years to your life.

25

I would skip Goa and Rhajasthan. For a taste of India, why not stay in the proximity (that is relative, of course), and go to Nasik which is a 4 hrs train ride north east of Bombay, and then from there go on to Aurangabad (best by bus) for the caves. Nasik is a holy town with nice ghats, pilgrims, temples, markets and a good bazaar area. Do not confuse Nasik Rd where the station is, with Nasik town proper. Get a taxi to take you to the Abishek Hotel (good clean central budget place, get a better rooms at 400rs if you can afford it, they have a balcony), there is a good veg restaurant opposite and its only a short stroll down to the river. From Aurangabad you can get to Bombay by train. Or skip Aurangabad and continue from Nasik on the same train line up to Jhansi. Jhansi is not interesting, but you can get to Orchha from there by rikshaw (30min) and that is one laid back interesting small town with ruined chatris, temples and palaces and loads to explore.

Or go south. There are regular overnight trains to Ernakulam (Cochin), I think they take about 15hrs. See Fort Cochin, the night market in Ernakulam, go to the Indian Coffee House (Ernakulam), visit the islands, and put 3 days aside for a trip to Allepey and the backwaters. Now THAT`S an experience you won´t forget. The only snag with this trip is that the 2nd class trains between Bombay and Ernakulam and back are heavily booked, so you might have to upgrade.

For train times check www.indiagroove.com<BR><BR>Have a great trip wherever you end up going.
Ginco

26

Hi,

I have been in both places two years ago. Your question is tricky because i really loved both !!

If you pick Goa don´t forget to visit Old Goa and try to reach Vrijianagar (500Kms - 12 hours in train) that is old hindu city in the middle of the jungle with huge temples - a must!!

If you chose Agra, try to visit Jodhpur (beautiful old blue city), Jailsamer (Deser Town) and also Rantamphore to see a tiger --- Wonderful

Don´t forget that Agra is just the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri, so 1 or 2 days are enough.

Nice Travel,

PedroC

27

Just to avoid confusion here. I suspect that the Vrijanagar that no. 28 refers to is probably Vijayanagar, which is the same as Hampi.

And if you go to Agra, you really shouldn't miss the Red Fort. It is a really nice fort, which has the added benefit of a really good view of the Taj Mahal from a distance.

28

i dont remember Vijayanagar being in the middle of the jungle.......

29

Hi,

I have to say I completely disaggree with #13 (Assagao).

I've been to Goa eight times, and the litter/rubbish problem just gets worse year after year.

Why is that?

It's probably because nobody deals with cleaning up the place.

Blaming tourists for dropping rubbish is just not fair, I have personally never seen it happen yet.

What I have seen though, is local Goans or Indians desposing their rubbish wherever they please.

I am talking about a lot of Beach Shack owners, restaurant owners, hotel staff and the like.

These people (and the Goan local government), despite the big money they make catering for tourism, behave completely irresponisible.

They should be responsible for cleaning up their own rubbish instead of blaming foreigners for behaving in an ecologically bad way.

In my country, it works that way, and everbody is happy about it.

Given the huge sum of cash that Goa makes each year on tourism, I'd say it might just be possible to spend some money cleaning the place without hurting anyone.

Also, beyond that, make investments into re-cycling and ecologically friendly waste disposal.

The money is there, but all the same, those money are kept tightly into a few people's pockets. Those people will not share.

Nevertheless - It's not tourists throwing their litter on the beaches and behind them.

It's a shame really, and will eventually make tourism disappear from Goa unless somebody does something about it.

/Søren

30

Maybe its time the tourists started complaining about the mess and to ask that something be done.

31

Goa is a horrible place, like a Spanish nasty resort if you have ever been to one.

Agra every time!!!

If you are going to Nam then Mui Ne in the South has much better beaches.

Have just had a proper look at messages above and completely agree with stevenber on the disappointment in comparrison to Thailand and agree with tigersphan also, cos I was with him when in Goa!!!

32