3 weeks Guatemala itinerary advices

Hello!

With my grilfriend we are planning a trip to Guatemala for 3 weeks in January 2017.

I've made an itinerary before, but since then I've been reading and reading more and more about this country and finally I've got so confused I really don't know what to do or not do. What are the real must have experiences and the ones we could let go.. With so many beautiful and interesting places and so much confusion because of them I've decided to share my plan with you and ask for some advices what would you do in our places?
What do you think about the length of time we would like to spend at different locations and the times of travelling, etc... So move on the plan:

1.day
Arrival to Guatemala city (13:15) and leave to Antigua.
Sightseeing in Antigua

1. day

Sightseeing in Antigua and leave to Panajachel early in the afternoon.
From Panajachel leave to Santa Cruz la Laguna and spend the night there (we've found a really nice place to stay).

3 - 5 day Lake Atitlan

A trail from Santa Cruz to Jaibalito.
Cruise around the cities of Lake Atitlán.
Panajachel sunday market.
Indian Nose hike.
San Pedro or Pacaya volcano hike. (About Pacaya I've read its really touristy and sometimes not enjoyable).
To which volcano would you plan a hike in the Atitlán Area?

The last two nights we could spend at San Pedro because the hikes are easier from there.
We would like to do the Indian Nose hike at dawn and after that move to Nebaj.

1. day Nebaj

7.day Nebaj to Lanquin

1. day. Lanquin - Semuc Champey - Lanquin

2. day. Lanquin to Flores

10- 18 day. Flores

Tikal, Yaxha ?
El Mirador Trek

This part of the trip is still unsure. As you can see I've counted 8 days for Flores to see Tikal and/or do the El Mirador Trek. I'm really curios about your opinion on this one. As a firsttimer in Guatemala should I rearrange these days to other places or not? Is El Mirador a bit overrated or its really a must do while staying here?
My main question here is the area of Nebaj and Quetzaltenango cause I completely missed Quetzaltenango from my plan despite a lot of trekking opportunities it has. I've read about the treks between Todos Santos and Nebaj or Nebaj to Todos Santos, and the one between Quetzaltenango and San Pedro la Laguna. How would you organize you're days? Is it a blame to miss Quetzaltenango at all and is it enough to spen only one day in Nebaj?

1. day Flores to Rio Dulce (Finca Tatin Lodge)

If we would do the El Mirador Trek I thought this would be a perfect place to rest and make small trips in the area or go kayaking,etc.

1. day Finca Tatin Lodge

2. day Finca Tatin to Livingston

Is a whole day in Livingston worth the time or should we make a small trip there from Rio Dulce and spend this day somewhere else?

1. day Rio Dulce or Livingston - Puerto Barrios - Guatemala City

2. day Guatemala City - Back Home (14:15)

Thank you in advance to check my plan and making your comments.
If you would have any other advice(s) I haven't mentioned please feel free to give them to us.

Happy trails!

Árpád

If you want to hike up Pacaya you would book a tour in Antigua, not at Lake Atitlan. You won't see lava and you can't go to the top any more but Pacaya is interesting if you have not been close to an active volcano before. The other volcano near Antigua is Acatenango. I love the overnight trek as you can see active volcano Fuego erupt. But it is a tough climb. So if you choose Pacaya you need 2 days in Antigua.

You have only one day for Nebaj. You need more time if you want to go there. First you have to get there. And then you need two days there for hiking and exploring. I like Nebaj but if you want to go there you have to drop something else. You could go from Lake Atitlan to Xela. Xela deserves at least two full days. Volcano climbs (Santa Maria, Tajumulco), hike to crater lake Chicabal, hot springs, markets... Then from Xela to Nebaj. Two days there (we hiked to Acul and Cocop). And then a long day to get to Lanquin.

One day for Semuc Champey is enough but as it is hard to get to you might consider a second day there for relaxing, swimming, tubing... From Lanquin it is 8 hours by shuttle to Flores.

Tikal is amazing and so is Yaxha. I have not done the El Mirador trek. Someone on this forum did it recently and called the first day brutal but seemed to have enjoyed it. Only you can decide whether a long jungle trek to ruins appeals to you more than the highlands. I wouldn't call El Mirador a must as most people would not attempt a long trek like that. But it depends on your interests. Tikal is a must and Yaxha is great too.

About Lake Atitlan: the walk to Jaibalito is nice and you can walk on to San Marcos (that part might be best with a guide). Make sure to take the boat to Santiago and visit Maximon. I would choose either Indian Nose or volcano San Pedro. The former is easier and has more viewpoints. If you are in the area on a Tuesday or Friday you may want to go to the Solola market, a short bus ride from Panajachel.

With 22 (?) days and if you skip El Mirador: 2 days Antigua, 3 days Lake Atitlan, 3 days Xela, 3 days Nebaj, 3 days Lanquin, 4 days Tikal and Yaxha, 3 days Rio Dulce/Livingston and back to GC.

Thank you for your reply and advices!

I'm going to plan Xela as well and the volcano Santa Maria!

I will drop the El Mirador trip. I've found an option to do a 3 day trek from Todos Santos to Nebaj. I'm going to try to arrange it and also a 3 day trip (2 nights/3days) through Yaxha and Tikal. Do you have any experiences on these hiking trails or any advice which organization should I ask?

Nebaj seems quite remote, do you have any advice where to stay/what to do with which organization in that region?
How can I deal with the locals with only basic Spanish?

I'm just thinking would it be a good idea to move to Cobán from here? Visiting Candelaria Caves for example?
and then continue the trip to Lanquin.

Thanks again!

Volcano Santa Maria is a day trip. Insist on leaving as early as possible as clouds roll in quickly. If it is clear at the top the view of Xela and other volcanoes is amazing and so is seeing active volcano Santiaguito erupt. If you go to Xela, you might as well go to the scenic hot springs as well. Some tour operators even offer Santa Maria in the morning followed by the hot springs (Fuentes Georginas) in the afternoon. That makes for a very long day but in the hot springs you can of course just relax.

The trek Todos Santos-Nebaj is something I would like to do but haven't done yet. Although logistically it would make more sense to go from Todos Santos to Nebaj the tours I know of go from Nebaj to Todos Santos. In that case go back to Nebaj after Todos Santos. Stay at least a day. Then go to Lanquin.
These are the tour operators I know of:

http://www.nebaj.com/guiasixiles.html#multiple (they offer day hikes as well)

http://www.quetzaltrekkers.com/xela/treks/nebaj-todos-santos/

We went hiking in Nebaj. To Acul and to Cocop. We went on our own but you can go with a guide (see link above). You can also take a minibus to Chajul and Cotzal.

Basic Spanish is fine. My Spanish is very basic. Also take a phrase book or a translation app.

You can go from Nebaj to Coban and then Lanquin and Semuc Champey. I don't think you will have time for the Candelaria caves (we went to Raxhuja from Lanquin via Pajal and Sebol) or the Bombil Pek cave in Chisec. We didn't find the Candelaria Caves that impressive (but there are three entrances and one of the other entrances might have been better). You can visit the caves in Lanquin/Semuc instead. There are the Lanquin caves (bat caves) in Lanquin. Go at dusk, take a flashlight, explore the cave for a bit (it is huge), then sit at the entrance in the cave and wait for the thousands of bats to fly out. There are also caves near Semuc Champey (K'an Ba Caves). You wade and swim while holding a candle and climb, jump, slide through the cave.

I have heard of three day trips to Yaxha, Nakum and Tikal but I can't recommend a tour operator. I have heard good things about Cafe Yaxha. Maybe they can help you out:

http://cafeyaxha.com/go/tours.html

http://www.the-mayan-adventure.com/zotz_tikal.html (click on tour offers for more tours)

If you use San Juan for anything be aware that they have almost a monopoly in the Flores area and they can be dishonest but often they will get you from A to B. Just make sure you have an idea of what it should cost and ask for a receipt that clearly states what you paid for. I have heard good things about (but can't vouch for) Crasborn Travel in Flores and you could also try Hostel Los Amigos.

I think you may also have to skip Rio Dulce if you want to do everything listed above. With 22 days: 2 days Antigua, 3-4 days Lake Atitlan, 2-3 days Xela, 6 days Nebaj (including the trek and getting to Nebaj), 3 days Lanquin, 4 days Tikal and Yaxha (including the trek) and back to GC (overnight bus or fly).

The El Mirador Trek is interesting because of the remoteness - it is quite an adventure but definitely not for everyone.

It looks like you have only one day scheduled in Antigua. I would try to be flexible on this. It is a lovely, safe town with a lot to see/do and makes a great base for further explorations. Many people schedule only a day and then wish they had budgeted more time.

Have a great trip - sounds like a good one!

Thanks for both of you for the answers!

I'm trying to fix the Todos Santos - Nebaj hike and the one in Tikal/Yaxha but it seems to be a slow process changeing e-mails is not so easy with tour operators :)
All the other activities will depend on these.

I'm trying to add another day in Antigua and Nebaj. Perhaps I will come back to you with some questions if I could finalize my itinerary.

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