Vietnam/Cambodia/Laos September!

Hi,

one month for the three countries and also getting to Bangkok will leave you with little time between getting from one place to another. I really think you should focus on either one country or at least one region, Northern Vietnam and Northern Laos, for example, or Southern Vietnam and Cambodia.

In September you might experience a lot of rain, depending where you are. Better check the weather details for each country, because with a lot of rain hiking won't be a lot of fun, even if you are thinking more of shorter half-day or day hikes.

Leaving the weather apart, I think of Northern Vietnam and Northern Laos when I hear "hiking". Terrific mountaineous regions. Southern Laos and Cambodia are rather flat. Cambodia might offer some walking to some ruins, although I haven't heard that there is a lot on offer.

Besides the points mentioned above, Laos and Cambodia (and to a minor extent Vietnam) continue to suffer from a not so pleasant heritage. The Vietnam war converted Laos into the most heavily bombed country in the history of mankind, Cambodia was flooded with mines during the war and the Pol Pot aftermath. Unexploded ordnances (UXO) are still in the ground in many regions in Laos. At the present clearing speed it will take almost hundred more years to get the country 'clean'. So it's almost logical, that may parts of Laos are off limits for outdoor activities. Same with Cambodia, where many areas which are not explicitely cleared of mines, have to be considered as too dangerous to move around freely. So not that many opportunities for hiking in these two countries.

Suggestions where to go... here are some of my favorites:
… Angkor Wat, of course, and not less than three days
… the border area of Northern Cambodia, before crossing into Laos.
… Bolaven Plateau in Southern Laos (quiet and a bit secluded)
… Phonsavan in Northern Laos. Most people go there for one day only to see the Plain of Jars. I got to know some local youths, was invited to their english lessons and came even back months later for some more days. Quiet place and possibilities to do a bit of walking
… Savannakhet. Fell in love with this town, nobody understands it
… Mekong Delta. I'm very independant-minded and hate everything that smells of organized tour, but I thoroughly enjoyed the three-day tour of the Mekong Delta.
… Hoi An, Vietnam
… and above all: Champasak, a tiny place in Southern Laos, bit south of Pakse, on the other side of the Mekong. There you can get a bicycle and cycle around 2 or 3 days and see some very simple yet stunning images of Southeast Asia. If you think you are interested, I can pm you a description of which direction to take to get around...

And again: don't try to see three countries in one month...

Have a great trip
Micha

It's me again...

A quick itinerary suggestion, though there's not much hiking... instead you can go cycling once in a while... and it's avoiding big cities whenever possible.

After landing in Saigon, try to get on a Mekong Delta tour as fast as possible.
After the tour, head out of the country to Phnom Penh. It's possible to make it on a boat on the Mekong into Cambodia, then the last couple of hours to Phnom Penh by bus. From Phnom Penh take bus to Siem Reap.
Visit Angkor Wat (3 days, not less). Get around on bicycle...! Ah yes, from Siem Reap there's another fabulous stretch, on bycycle, nothing “spectacular”, but simply nice...
Take bus to Kampong Cham and on to Kratie (try to find small hotels overlooking the Mekong).
Continue to Laos. If you feel like meeting lots of other people, go to Si Phan Don, the 4000 islands. Don Det is where you can chill out with plenty of other tourists, Don Khong is where you can be on your own and cycle all around the island, which is quite nice. You can move between the islands by boat...
Go from there direction Pakse, but before you get there, take the turn-off to Champasak. Cross the Mekong on a ferry and stay 2 or 3 days in Champasak. Do lots of cycling there...
Go to Pakse and continue to Bolaven Plateau. You can do some walking there or get a bicycle to get around a bit.
Go to Savannakhet (stay at Saisouk guesthouse, if I remember the name correctly. Teak floors, quiet ambiance, a very nice place). Wander the deserted, wild-west-like streets between the busy main street and the Mekong (at least that's how it was 6 years ago. By now probably the bridge over to Thailand is finished and the town has changed completely).
If Savannakhet has changed completely, at least have a breakfast with coffee and croissants in one of the small restaurants close to the bank of the Mekong.
If you still have time left, go to Vientiane. Don't miss the night market and the open air restaurants on the bank of the Mekong.
When travelling to Bangkok, try to do it by train, either from Nong Khai (Vientiane) or from Ubon Ratchathani (Savannakhet). If still available, get an overnight sleeper carriage without air condition. Through the open windows the hot tropical air is streaming in, the scents of country side and street kitchens, the voices of the people... no better way to finish a journey.
http://www.seat61.com/Thailand.htm
http://www.seat61.com/Map-southeast-asia-train-routes.htm#.UD04F6BMi3Y

No hiking or trekking on the suggested trip, I have to admit. Yet a journey partly away from big cities and exploring a bit of rural SE Asia.
I don't suggest how many days to spend at each spot. Just see where you like it and where you want to spend some time. Don't squeeze yourself into a strait jacket, with what you have to see and how quick... One month simply isn't a lot of time, and you should try to see less, but get a closer look instead...

As Auggie said in the film “Smoke”: if you don't take your time to look at things, you never will see anything...