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Hi Everybody,

I'm planning to visit to the Indian Himalayas from Srinagar this Summer, and I would like to do a week-long trek. I was in Ladakh last year and explored the whole Indus Valley, Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso area, but never got to use my hiking boots. I'm planning to go overland from Jammu to Srinagar, then to Kargil and Padum. In Padum I'm planning one of the 3 long treks from there: either the Padum - Lamayuru trek, or the Padum - Leh trek, or the Padum - Darcha trek. I'm leaning toward the latter one more, because of the possibility to visit the wonderful Phuktal Gompa and because it would put me in a great position to deviate to the Spiti Valley, which I missed last year.

My questions are the followings:

1) Which of the 3 treks would you suggest? The spectacularity of the landscape and monastery position/location are my first priorities, but I'm also interested in staying with local families. I have found little information about these treks and about the difference between them. Any opinion from travelers who have done at least a couple of them is highly appreciated.

2) Would you suggest another trek (about 1 week long) in the area that I've missed? Part of the reason I want to go to Zanskar is because I visited Ladakh really well last year (but not hiked) and I wanted to get out of the crowds. Any suggestion on other treks in the area are highly appreciated.

3) I might not have enough time to go to Spiti... If I do one of these treks, will I miss something by not going to the Spiti Valley? How does it compare with Ladakh and Zanskar?

Thank you so much for your help. I deeply appreciate it.

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1

To trek out of Zanskar and avoid high season crowds I would choose trek via Tsarap river valley. It is amazing landscape wise and remote. It means that you trek until Phuktal and continue along Tsarap instead returning to Purne to go to Darcha. You will end up on Leh - Manali road before Sarchu (just at the base of famous Gata loops).
If you want to spend some time with locals in Zanskar you can go for homestays which are supposed to be plenty in Zanskar villages. You can use them on the way to Phuktal as well.
http://www.himalayan-homestays.com/ladakpages/how-to-book.html
Culturally and in geography, Spiti resembles Ladakh. But you will miss many fine monasteries if you dont go there like Ki, Dankar and especially Tabo.

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2

Thank you so much for your suggestions. I'm not having much luck on TT4 about finding reliable information. I have a few more questions to ask you. I hope you don't mind.

1) What are the main differences in terms of landscape between the 2 variations of this trek? Which one is more spectacular and why?

2) How many days would the trek from Padum through Phuktal to Tsarap be?

3) How many days before and after Phuktal?

4) Is Tsarap on the Manali-Leh road? If not, how far of a walk? How far from Sarchu is this place?

5) Will I be able on my last day of trek to have enough time to catch some type of transportation to Keylong the same day? This way I would be able to go from Keylong to Spiti the following day...

Thank you, again.

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3

1.) You can see pics from Tsarap river valley trek here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/110028943416454184121/Zanskar2008#
Padum to Darcha trek follows Kargyak valley (with quite a few lively villages) and crosses Shingo la. After crossing you will soon get on the road (road building in Ladakh/Zanskar is abundant lately and will soon change popular trekking routes into popular jeep tours). It is popular (you can meet even cyclists) and you can get support regarding food&accomodation on the way. Landscape is far from dull but you stay in the bottom of the main valley all the time. Like all passes in Himalayas, Shingo la is spectacular.
Tsarap river valley trek is completely remote. After Phuktal you can visit a tiny settlement of Thakthak (a short detour) with 2 families and small gompa, otherwise there are no permanent settlement altough there are few places with houses. You have to be selfsuficient - either carry everything yourself (if you are good in route finding which can be a bit compplicated) or hire ponyman with horses
Even if it looks that you will be stucked in the valley for the whole trek, in fact the landscape shows lots of variety. Impassable river valley requires detours which will take you through side valleys and high in the mountains and over fascinating passes.
2.,3.) You can get from Padum to Phuktal in 2 days (by car until Reru or further - the road building is going on also here). From Phuktal you can reach Leh - Manali road in 5 days.
4.) Tsarap is a river which is a branch of Zanskar river (confluence is near Padum). Leh - Manali road between Gata loops and Sarchu follows the course of Tsarap river. It does not make sense to walk from Gata loops to Sarchu - you have to follow the road including few kilometers long bend to reach the bridge over Tsarap. It is easy to get a ride as soon as you get on the road - a truck or a public bus and continue until Keylong the same day.

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4

Thank you so much for your suggestions. I really appreciate it.

Do you think I can book this trek once I'm in Padum? How easy will it be to do it there and leave the following day?

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5

There are trekking agencies in Padum - how quick they will be able to organize the trek depends mainly on availability of ponymen at the time. I suppose you can also contact an agent in Leh by mail to prearrange it so you will not waste time.

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6

Thank you, usever.

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7

Phuktal Gompa is between Darcha and Padum and is probably the highlight of that section. It is certainly worth the trip although Padum to Wanla is far prettier with the passes. You'll have to walk both sections and get the satisfaction of doing a through walk in changing terrain. Padum-Leh is too hard for me to contemplate.

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8

Thank you, Jnanamargi. Where is Wanla compared to the Padum - Phuktal - Darcha (or Tsarap) trek? I'm getting confused. I'm trying to follow on a google map, but I can't find info. Would I be able to go to Phuktal and Wanla on the same trek to the Leh - Manali road?

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9

Ok... got your PM. Thank you.

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