Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Pyrenees or elsewhere - itinerary advice?

Interest forums / Trekking & Mountaineering

Last July my gf and I walked the GR55 in Vanoise NP, French Alps (~Modane to Landry), and greatly enjoyed it. This year we'd like to do something similar in some other mountains, and since I recall doing some nice hikes in Ordessa, I was thinking about the Pyrenees.

I'm therefore looking for itinerary advice - e.g. which of the long distance paths to take, how to combine them, etc?

Please note what I look for in the route:
a. Nice scenery, not terribly built up with ski lifts and high-rises
b. Ability to take an intermediate stop if needed as I have some persistent foot problems (plantar fascitis) which may not resolve before summer. Probably best to limit vertical altitude difference to 1 km per day.
c. No need for ice picks and crampons, thus no glacier walking - we have no training on this, and wouldn't want to carry the weight.
d. No need to carry extensive amounts of food with us, ability to have lunch in villages/refuges
e. No need to carry tent / sleeping bag with me, ability to spend the night in refuges or villages/hotels
f. Total time spent - circa 7-9 days
g. Trail-head reachable from Southern England, preferably by Eurostar->TGV->local rail/bus.

Also, if you cannot advise on Pyrenees, any other suggestions besides Alps?

The two major long distance paths are the GR10 (Atlantic to Med in France ) and the GR11 (the same in Spain). Obviously cannot do in 7-9 days but could consider a section.
GR10 passes through more villages but has more ascent/descent. GR11 generally has better weather but more remote sections. Getting to Pyrenees is easy by TGV but would suggest taking the sleeper so not to waste travel time. Not very expensive - even '1st class'. Toulouse is obvious target spot for onward travel. Currently the sleeper service to the Atlantic end goes via Toulouse because of major track maintenance. Major trail heads are Somport area (train/bus from Pau), Cauterets/Luz (bus from Lourdes), Luchon ( train from Toulouse), Ax Les Thermes area(train from Toulouse)
Most staffed huts will provide picnic lunches on request.
If considering the High Pyrenees then do not rely on villages. Too much descent/ascent.
Suggested reading to narrow your search:-
http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/364/title/the-gr10-trail
http://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/187375650X/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1
to get some ideas of the the GR10 or
http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/524/title/through-the-spanish-pyrenees---gr11
for the GR11
Message me for queries on particular areas.

1

Thanks, Pedro, I will look into your links/pointers.

2

Hi,

There are numerous possibilities for hiking in the Pyrennees, but the two main long-distance trails are obviously good starting points to research. I think the GR-10 might be the better choice for you. The GR-11 requires a tent along most sections, and has some stretches of 3 days or more without a village. The GR-10 intentionally tries to hit as many villages as possible, and I'm fairly certain it's possible to walk the whole thing without a tent, staying in gites or refuges every night. The GR-10 is unbelievably well way-marked, while the way-marking on the GR-11 is quite sketchy (at least when I hiked it, about 3 years ago), and you will certainly get lost a few times.

You shouldn't need crampons or technical gear on either trail, but early in the season snow can make some of the passes a little tricky. I think by July you shouldn't have any problems. The few glaciers left in the Pyrennees are tiny, so unfortunately there's not much glacial walking available!

Generally speaking, the highest mountains and most dramatic scenery are in the central Pyrenees. The region to the west is colder, more lush, and freqently very misty, while in the east things get quite dry and very hot in the valleys during the height of summer. My personal favorite region is the west of Catalonia, but many parts of the Pyrenees are lovely. Avoid Andorra, which is full of ski-resorts and tacky towns (though the valleys are beautiful once you climb out of the villages). Elsewhere, there's an occasional ski resort but you'll quickly hike through it.

If you want to see both Spain and France, there are numerous passes across the frontier, and it's easy to link the GR-11 and GR-10 in many places. But you'll need to plan carefully on the Spanish side if you don't have a tent with you. And at some of the most popular refuges (in Ordesa for example) you won't get a bed.

Hope some of that helps.

3

There is no refuge in Ordesa (aside from Goriz). Well, there are, but they are emergency lean-tos. ;-)

If you have a week and a half, I know of a route that would match the OP's requirements; though the 1000/m per day limit is tough.

Start at Gabas and hike up to Lacs d'Ayous, sleeping at Refuge d'Ayous. Alternatively, you could start in Urdos, but that makes for a 1500m day on day 1.

Refuge d'Ayous to Refuge de Pombie.

Refuge de Pombie to Refuge d'Arremoulit

Leave the HRP, cross over Arremoulit Pass into Spain and head for Refugio de Respomuso.

Respomuso to Refuge Wallon (crossing back into France)

Follow the GR10 for a couple of days until you reach Gavarnie.

From Gavarnie to Refuge des Sarrets.

Cross through the Breche de Roland, back into Spain, go down through Ordessa and catch the shuttle Bus to Torla.

Edited by: cayle

4

Nice route but maybe a bit rough for someone with an iffy leg. If doing it then I suggest terminating at Gavarnie to avoid a) another greater than 1000m climb, revisiting Ordessa and c) ending up on the wrong side of the border for getting home. If a couple of spare days at the end then go to Luz and then Bareges by bus and then explore Neouvielle NP.

5

Apart from the recommendations you have received already I suggest that you consider the Cadi Moixero National Park just South of the Pyrennees. Here is a link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cad%C3%AD-Moixer%C3%B3_Natural_Park

My wife and I hiked there last summer and the scenery is astounding. Hiking across the relatively flat ridge of the Cadi range you think, "this could be a scene from The Lord of the Rings". There are enough refugios to allow for both shorter and longer days.

Soren

6

These may be too soft for you but any stretch of the Camino de Santiago or the Dingle Way in Ireland can be a wonderful experience. Olive and red wine on the former, Guinness and chips on the latter. Beds with mattresses on both.

7

Soren,
Just in case you haven't spotted it I have sent you a message.
Peter

8

Thank you very much for all the pointers, I will review and then come back with additional questions. Thanks again!

edit - the route suggested by cayle seems very interesting, I will need to get the topo maps and review if it is doable by us.

Edited by: juu

9

Does anyone have any suggestions for the best places to link up GR10 and GR11? That DOES sound like a fun idea. I would intend to camp so villages are not an issue.

10

When I did it I started on the GR10 crossed to the GR11 back to the GR10 , across to the GR11 again and finished on the GR10. Why? because there were areas I wanted to visit on both routes. Most of the time they are at most 2 days apart, often only 1 day. So rather than 'best' - which I can't answer - ask yourself 'why'.

11