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I am looking for a mountaineering course in January (or late December, early Februari). I have been hiking through mountains, but want to learn some more. I should have finished my study by then and want to give myself a mountaineering course. As I live in Europe, it is not really the season for a mountaineering course here (although it is given in Scotland). I would prefer to go to the Andes, which seems like an interesting destination, but have trouble finding organizations that offer this.

Scotland: does not really attract me, but from what I have seen it's at least possible
Bolivia: no courses given due to raining season. Peru/Ecuador probably the same?
New Zealand: what I have seen really expensive (3000+ NZD which is over €2000)
Argentina/Chili:I can only find organizations that organize an Aconcagua-expedition. Which is also interesting, but a bit expensive.
Mexico?

Any other options/countries/mountain ranges I should look for? Any experiences with mountaineering courses?

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You could try this one in Ecuador with a well known company:

http://www.mountainmadness.com/adventures/schools/international/ecuador-mountaineering-school#trip-overview/description

Your months are not good for Bolivia and Peru, where the best SA climbing is. Mexico is orientated to simply climbing the, easy, volcanoes rather than teaching you much. Also wrong time for India and Nepal.

NZ courses are expensive but they are also extremely well done. Adventure Consultants are another well known company:

http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/AlpineClimbingCourse/

Scots courses are also well done but they mainly teach you how to climb in Scotland on steep technical terrain. This is not typical alpine terrain until you get into the higher grades - say D and above.

I would go for Ecuador or NZ.

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In response to #1

Thank you for your reply. Ecuador seems also surprisingly expensive (~3000 USD)! In Bolivia they start from 600USD for 6 days. Perhaps it's better to postpone. I don't want to spent a lot more than I would in Europe (1000USD)

What about Chili/Argentina (Central Andes/Patagonia)? It should be the season, not?

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I think that you need to consider the difference between a proper mountaineering course and a climbing trip. The first teaches you skills that you can then use to climb mountains without a guide. It is therefore expensive. The second gets you up and down a peak safely with a guide (not always officially qualified) but provides only very basic instruction. Companies often describe climbing trips as mountaineering courses but they are really no such thing.

I know of no proper courses in South America or NZ that meet your budget. Your example is better than most climbing trips but they would struggle to cover the, extremely broad, topics that they list in the time available. The USD606 cost will be per person for a group, probably about four people, not a price for you alone.

European prices for courses can be cheaper, the Austrian Alpine Club (OAeV)ones for example, because they are often subsidised or operate in bulk. Outside Europe the same factors apply in India and Nepal. However your months are off season in that area.

If you only have a budget of USD1000 then I suggest that you wait until later in the year and do one of the European courses that you refer to.

Have you considered the NKBV? See: http://nkbv.nl/

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Yes, I have considered the NKBV, they are affordable, but only offer courses in summer in Switserland/Austria. As I would like to combine it with more travel, I would rather go elsewhere to unknown territories.

I do understand the difference between a mountaineering course and a climbing trip, and it is indeed hard to find the real qualified mountaineering courses. For me it is quite hard to estimate the depth in which the mentioned topics are executed.

Thanks for all your help! I will think about my options.

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You can come to Armenia, be a volunteer in Armenian Extreme Club, work and study as a mountain guide. Reply if u are interested

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In response to #5

You can come to Armenia, be a volunteer in Armenian Extreme Club, work and study as a mountain guide. Reply if u are interested

Hi gorayzak, that sure sounds interesting. Any more information on that?

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I second the comment about the difference between a mountaineering course and a guided trip. Though, if you are going with a proper certified guide, the cost difference shouldn't be much different if the terrain is the same. In Canada, a 5 night Intro to Mountaineering course with an IFMGA/ACMG guide will be about $1100-1500 CAN all included (meals, accommodation, guiding). A guided trip will be the same, or more expensive - the cost depends on the guide to client ratio, and more advanced trips will have a 1:4 to 1:2 ratio, rather than a 1:6 ratio on an intro course. The guide is going to make basically the same amount whether it's a guided trip or a course, so that part of the cost to the company isn't going to change.

Either way, I would strongly suggest going with a company that uses guides certified by one of the country organizations that is a member of the IFMGA. Or, in places like the US, where guides don't always get certified, a reputable company that uses experienced guides (and guides experienced in teaching, not just in the mountains. A guide with year of experience who can't teach you anything is worthless). That way you are taught proper, up to date techniques and you know that the company/guide has proper insurance behind them.

It is well worth spending the money, because a good guide(s) and an organized company will make the difference between a course that is worthwhile and proper learning experience, and miserable experience. Also, mountaineering is not without risk, and having a poorly trained guided or learning incorrect techniques could end up being life threatening. Or at the very least, a waste of money. It also really helps to have a guide who knows how to teach & has people skills, otherwise you won't get much out of the experience. You're there to learn from their experience, and if they don't deal with you well or you can't understand them, it's not going to be fun, and could even be unsafe. Making connections with guides and companies is also something that can last far longer than the course - I keep in contact with the guides I've had on courses/trips and they are great resources for updates on mountain conditions, to ask questions about gear/possible trips and to do long term goal/trip planning.

A few things I would look for in a mountaineering course

1) IFMGA country organization certified full or assistant guides
2) Course taught by guides who are fluent in a language in which you are also fluent. Language barriers can make it hard to learn and potentially be dangerous in mountaineering if something goes wrong or there needs to be quick, decisive communication
3) A course that includes time on a glacier. A big part of mountaineering is learning how to travel on a glacier, walk on crampons, tie into a rope and travel roped up safely, use an ice axe, learn to self arrest and crevasse rescue. So go somewhere with glaciers. Otherwise you will not learn the skills that you need for most of the major mountaineering areas.

4) If at all possible, some kind of ice climbing or higher angle snow climbing, even just playing in a crevasse. Another important skill for the mountains.

5) If at all possible, a course that is all inclusive and that includes several overnights up in the mountains with the group & guide. A course that has you staying in a hostel or hotel each night won't get you out far enough to really experience mountaineering and not up early enough for full alpine days. Also, a good part of mountaineering is learning to work as a group, and evenings spend with the group and guide can be really important parts of the course. Our course was based out of an alpine hut and we used our free time & evenings to have lessons on things like glacier morphology and compass work. Also, it gave us time to digest what we'd learned and ask questions of the guide (and each other). Good guides have years of experience, and so you want to be able take advantage of that knowledge and learn from them. Even listening to stories about previous trips they've done can provide lessons on good & bad group dynamics and lessons learned from previous mistakes.

6) A fairly small guide to client ratio. I would suggest no more than 1 guide per 6 clients. Any more than that, and you won't get enough hands on time to learn skills. And even the most experienced guides can only keep an eye on so many clients at once, especially relative novices. It's fine to have 2 guides and 12 clients, but I would also not want a group size any larger or you are crowding trails etc.
7) A company that is reputable enough to ensure that they will properly assess clients. Even on an intro course, clients need to have a reasonable level of fitness and experience in the mountains. You want a company that will be responsible enough to get information and not accept clients that don't meet the course. Clients who aren't fit for the course could end up taking a lot of guide time and/or put others in danger.

In the winter, you will need a course in the southern hemisphere (unless you want to do Intro to Ski Mountaineering). You can find a list of the IFMGA member organziations at the below link - they should have info on certified guides and/or companies that use certified guides. Or can provide info to help you find them. For instance, ACMG in Canada has a list of all active certified guides on their website. I think your best option would be New Zealand, otherwise somewhere in South America with glaciers.

http://www.ivbv.info/en/members/members.html

BTW, as far as I can see, Armenia is not part of the IFMGA. So any qualifications there won't do you much good outside the country. And any guide training that is worthwhile will require years of experience just to start the training program. In North America, guides would generally have very good ski, climbing and mountaineering skills before they would even start working towards their guiding qualifications. Plus you need a work permit to work in another country... I'd do a lot of research before jumping into a program that offers guide training without any experience or wants free work...

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